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Messages - kent400
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31
« on: September 12, 2020, 08:26:31 AM »
Spent most of yesterday zinc plating various gauge parts. The gauge bases take about 45 minutes at 1.25 volts.
Good advice on the tank heater, the plating solution needs to be 25-30 centigrade and putting a small bottle of hot water in the tank will help getting the temperature up as the tank heater can take a while to get it there. Bandaging the anodes is a help in stopping small particles of zinc getting into the solution and onto the item being plated. Filtering the solution when finished with it keeps it clean and two coffee filters in a funnel works well but takes a while to run though.
A power supply is essential although some seem to manage with one of those resistance wire arrangements.
Just as a bit of a trial I tried zinc plating a brass bezel. I didn't prep it very well just wanted to see if it would plate. Came up quite well and now I regret the prep wasn't better.
32
« on: August 03, 2020, 04:59:50 PM »
Here's an image of the seal in question, between the painted body, inner body and the base.
33
« on: August 02, 2020, 09:00:34 PM »
The bands that secure the painted body to the base are stainless steel. Aluminium replacements are available from a forum sponsor www.cb750faces.com there is a rubber seal between the painted body and the base. These seals are also available from the same supplier.
34
« on: July 08, 2020, 05:39:52 PM »
If you want to replace the grommet ideally you need to take the gauge apart as the remains of the grommet will be glued to the inside of the body. You can remove the knob be cutting it with a thin Dremel rotary saw blade, spread it slightly and pull it off.
When you are done push the knob back on and run a bead of two part resin glue in the saw cut. The knob wasn't glued on originally
it's just pressed on the shaft which has splines.
35
« on: June 17, 2020, 09:39:24 PM »
Now I'm not the owner of this pair. They were partly dismantled by the owner's father who passed away some years ago. Apparently all the parts are there for both. He's looking for £2500 -£3000 for the pair but I've no doubt that's negotiable.
Shame the back-drop of the images is a skip so comment on that are not required!
The A10 is a 1952 -Re-registered 1981. Last taxed 1982 & is thought to be the Gold Flash model
The C10 250cc side valve 1956 last taxed 1984
Located in Dartford
36
« on: May 11, 2020, 05:19:24 PM »
The grommet is glued to the inside of the body and plus the fact you can't you can't get the grommet over the knob. You can't usually remove the knob from the shaft without damage.
37
« on: April 27, 2020, 09:01:24 AM »
The gauge body and the bracket has been re-zinc plated Roy. All bright and shinny [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
38
« on: January 24, 2020, 06:04:56 PM »
Well I've never had a discount and I spent hundreds with him last year. Must rank as one of his best customers!
39
« on: September 05, 2019, 08:04:04 AM »
Revell SM332 same colour available in Humbrol but not sure of their reference number. Available from most model shops in very small tins
40
« on: July 15, 2019, 07:50:41 AM »
Seen a few warped ones but never one quite like that bad and if the damaged area is touching the needle it can damage the gauge.
I have a spare used face that quite good if that will help. I would carefully inspect the tachometer face, can't see the heat would have only damaged one and not the other!
41
« on: July 03, 2019, 10:13:45 AM »
Obviously the mileage counter drum is not being driven so it's likely one of the internal gears has stripped. Repair is possible provided it's not the spiral gear on the drive end. Image will show the gear train to the counter drum.
42
« on: June 27, 2019, 05:51:49 PM »
All good replies here, usually around 10% fast so the speedo mentioned is just a little over that. Unlike the old Smiths speedometers there is no external calibration adjustment, Japanese ones were calibrated when manufactured and are not to easy to re-calibrate. As the calibration is controlled by an internal hairspring it's likely that the spring weakens with age so all that can be done is to bend the bracket that secures the spring to place it under a little more tension. I re-calibrated mine by fitting it on the bike minus the body and com- pairing with a sat nav and managed to get it 'spot on'. Many stops and adjustments required! I could then use that one to check by comparison other speedometers.
43
« on: June 25, 2019, 05:59:03 PM »
Well that side stand is too loose wrong bolt maybe securing it to the frame
44
« on: June 21, 2019, 10:32:31 PM »
If B-O-R-i-S isn't auto censored it might soon be!
45
« on: June 16, 2019, 10:13:57 AM »
Mine failed a couple of years ago, as Julie say by a new one and a genuine one. A bought a pattern one and it had the wrong thread. Trying to take it apart and re-assembly could lead to a brake fluid leak
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