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Messages - kent400
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61
« on: September 15, 2018, 11:43:21 AM »
I have a couple of the gauge mounting brackets. I know they are CB750 ones but which ones I know not!
If you post an image I can check. Must have taken some effort to bend those lugs.
62
« on: September 09, 2018, 03:12:27 PM »
Excellent description Ash and your previous post explained well.
Not all gauges need the damper re-filled. Easy to check, spin the drive with a match stick watching the needle if it drops immediately to zero as soon as the drive stops turning the damping is ineffective. If it slows down as it moves to zero there's a damping effect. If both gauges are off the bike compare with the tacho as it's a bit unlikely that both gauges would lose their damping. The damping effect of the two may vary slightly but the difference should be obvious.
63
« on: September 09, 2018, 02:56:55 PM »
Thanks Sye, they were quite a decent pair to start with! Faces (aluminium) were supplied by Marcel our forum sponsor.
I do have a decent 500 four tacho face that could go again. As Ash mentioned the face screws do be come loose leading to the holes becoming oval. Thread lock was used on the screws upon original assembly but strangely one some gauges the screws are tighter than others. Later gauges have plastic faces and they don't seem to come loose. Those plastic faces are secured with screws with a larger head.
A wavering needle can often be traced to a drive cable in poor condition, they can bind as the rotate and that results the cable slowing down , and speeding up. As a consequence the needle wavers.
64
« on: September 09, 2018, 10:56:31 AM »
Here is an F1 speedo showing the damper, I'm assuming the face i the same as you have with the km/h marking on the dial face. You can see the aluminium damper, you can see where I drilled it and subsequently re-filled it. The dark spot on it where the hole is sealed.
65
« on: September 06, 2018, 08:12:01 PM »
A whole lot easier if you loosen the clips that secure the carbs so they are flexible.
66
« on: September 05, 2018, 01:19:42 PM »
Absolute peach always a bigger challenge when you start with a dismantled bike.
67
« on: August 31, 2018, 07:05:21 AM »
Not too many of those CX customs about but the body if undamaged is the same size as other larger Seiki gauges so the body could be swapped with a damaged one. Drill a hole for the trip shaft and it could also be used for a speedo. ND and Seiki bodies are not the same size might look the same but they are not interchangeable. Marcel has new bodies for these Seiki ones and the ND ones. Fitted a few of these and they are perfect. The ND bodies he supplies are are made of a higher gauge steel, no bad thing as the original are quite thin and frequently damaged.
68
« on: August 30, 2018, 06:06:54 PM »
As you say the red line is too high for a Goldwing. It certainly looks like a Seiki one but they never put their usual lettering around the bottom edge on those tachometer I suppose there wasn't room for that with the temperature gauge right on the bottom edge. It's probably post 1980 as it has a plastic needle.
I'm thinking it might be CX500 but that's really just a wild guess.
69
« on: August 30, 2018, 07:16:27 AM »
Yes Ash, about 20 extension springs and two conical ones on the seat frame. Must have been expensive to produce and far more than a pan, and foam one. Can't say it's that comfortable, probably not too bad for a young arse but not so great for an old one and 50 miles is about the limit. Seat was restored by R.K. Leighton a long time ago and has stood the test of time.
70
« on: August 29, 2018, 08:20:09 AM »
Thanks for all the replies and I think I'll go with Heidenau. New tubes and rim tapes as I've no idea who old they are. Well I owned it for the bike for 46 years and don't ever recall replacing them so I think it's about time! Runs well but I do feel a little venerable on a low powered bike now. Anyway added a couple of images of it, might bring back a few memories for the older members.
71
« on: August 27, 2018, 09:12:10 AM »
The little CB160 I have uses a 250-18 tyre on the front and 275-18 on the rear. It seems there are few options for a 250-18, Heidenau, Duro, Cheng Shin and Anlas. There's far more options for 275-18.I know a few members have 'Tiddlers' who might have some experience of the tyre makes above.
At the moment it has Golden Boy tyres, yes I know sounds like an oriental takeaway and a google search came up with a takeaway in Horncastle. I fitted the tyres when I restored the bike and needed to get the bike on the wheels quickly and were all I could find locally but I've always be uneasy about them. Added to that they are about 10 years old now but have only covered 1000 or so miles.
Might consider a 275 on the front also but not too sure that would leave sufficient clearance between the guard stays mounted on the forks but I suppose there's some reason why a wider profile tyre is fitted on front and rear.
72
« on: August 21, 2018, 05:07:17 PM »
The speedo isn't the original, looks like a CB350 Four one. The original would have been marked to 120 mph but one marked to 130 mph was often fitted on those supplied to the USA market. Gauges with crazed faces are often found on bikes imported from the USA, they have sat in the sun too long.
73
« on: August 19, 2018, 11:10:37 AM »
I often get gauges sent here that are very poorly packed, old shoe box and some newspaper. They go back double boxed with loads of bubble wrap.
I wonder if a local paint less dent removal chap could pop the dent out. I worked at a car reconditioning site a few years ago, all ex rental cars that were going into the Ford Direct. What those fellas there could do to remove a dent was quite amazing. I had a piece of mortar fall from quite a height on the bonnet of my car, a dent not unlike the one in the tank. That was taken out by PDR, absolutely impossible to see where if was now. Appreciate it might not be too easy to get the tools they use in via the filler neck but might be worth a try.
74
« on: August 03, 2018, 05:47:21 PM »
I think it's only a problem if the gauge is left face down for an extended period. If you have ever seen an original box a gauge is supplied in it's marked with the instruction to store face upwards. What I don't quite understand is why some gauges of the same type loose their damping effect and others of the same age don't. Seiki gauges seem to worse as far as loss of damping is concerned. On the early Seiki ones it's only a question of removing the tiny nut under the needle, withdrawing the centre of the damper to re-fill.
Not so easy on ND ones of course.
75
« on: August 02, 2018, 05:16:16 PM »
There are a couple of different damper designs used on the speedometer but they can be refilled is exactly the same way. The tachometer may have a different design that has a aluminium cap at the needle end but again can be refilled as Ash described. Where the speedo is concerned the mileage counter needs to be removed by carefully bending back the tabs that securing it to the mechanism frame. Whatever is used to seal the hole in the damper needs to be minimal otherwise it will touch the mileage counter as there is only a couple of millimetres clearance between them. No problem with the tacho of course. None of these have anything that could be described as a seal and leakage usually only take place if the gauges are stored face down.
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