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Messages - AshimotoK0
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6541
« on: April 01, 2010, 01:11:54 PM »
Post removed as contents may offend  cheers AshD
6542
« on: April 01, 2010, 12:35:17 PM »
Never rode a CB450 on which the 500T was based - was that a better ride? Vibrate less?
6543
« on: March 31, 2010, 08:11:18 AM »
You could also sell him your spare carbs and sell the K0 carbs for at least
6544
« on: March 31, 2010, 08:04:34 AM »
A NOS one went for
6545
« on: March 30, 2010, 09:39:54 PM »
Hi- IGNORE THIS I DID NOT READ YOUR POST CORRECTLY _ BUT LEFT IT BELOW AS IT GIVES FITTING INSTRUCTIONS FOR MOTAD IN CASE ANYONE NEEDS THEM _ SORRY !!!!
I sold a Motad on Ebay last year that came off 'The Monster from the swamp' which was a K7 fitted with an F1 motor. Look at the pic it shows the Motad collets which are complete circles and different from the Honda split ones. I am sure Motad told me that they can be bought as a spare part. Hope this helps, as I am no expert on the F1/Motads.
cheers
AshD
Below are details I got from Motad : - IAN@MOTAD.CO.UK (Ian Howell)
FITTING INSTRUCTIONS FOR HONDA CB750K7 (SOHC)
MOTAD REPLACEMENT EXHAUST SYSTEM M7HK7S
This system is comprised of: 1 M7HF silencer
4 M7HF downpipes (nos. 1-4)
1 M7HK7 bracket
4 no. 20 head rings
1 Motad nut and bolt kit
MOTAD strongly recommend that this system be fitted by a recognised dealer
1. Place the motorcycle on the centre stand. Remove the standard exhaust system. Retain the stand stop rubber and the Honda finned head clamps.
2. Slide one Motad flared head ring (non-flared end first) onto each downpipe followed by a Honda finned clamp. Fit the stand stop rubber in the bottom of the Motad bracket (the hole furthest from the two slots). Loosely fit the 6mm nut and bolt in the clamp tube on the collector end of the silencer.
3. As shown below, using the two 8mm nuts and bolts provided, mount the bracket onto the key slot in the silencer - position in approximately the middle of each slot. Using the Honda nut and bolt, attach the mount to the rear side of the footrest hanger. Mount the pillion footrest as before. The rear brake cylinder mount is relocated with the Honda bolt.
4. As shown below, slide the Q1M7HF downpipe into the silencer. Locate in the head on cylinder no. 1 (the nearest to the gear change). Locate with the Honda nuts and finned clamp. As shown below, slide the Q2M7HF downpipe into the silencer and locate incylinder no. 4. Fit the other two pipes to cylinders 2 and 3.
5. Carefully take the bike off the main stand taking care not to let the stand violently retract. Check for correct alignment of the stand stop rubber. If it is not correct, adjust the position of the mount bracket by moving it on its bolts until the stand is safely touching the stop. Tighten all nuts and bolts when everything is correctly positioned.
5. Run the engine and check for any leaks. If the gaskets at the head were damaged when removing the stock system, they should be replaced. If a leak occurs at the head, loosen the nuts and retighten carefully making sure each side is nipped up the same amount
6546
« on: March 14, 2010, 06:39:08 PM »
Had a look at the inlet rubber I treated six months ago and still nice and supple so my 'magic brew' appears to have worked. Don't know about the Americans site's brew using Wintergreen
Mine was this:
Re: Wintergreen oil_rubber renew test / peanut oil plastic renew test_pics
6547
« on: March 09, 2010, 10:11:03 AM »
just checked
XDN128R 400/4F1 - Still taxed !!!
FHL54D CB72
OKH531F CD175 sloper Taxed up to 2008!!
EYP605C CB160
HDT2J CB250K2 Still Taxed!!
SRV974K CB250K3
DRH308C C200 Honda 90 sport OHV
CAG242T Yellow 400/4F2 Stolen in 1985
JKH856V Kawasaki (Sorry guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) KZ650B1 (wire wheels)
I can't believe it, some are still on the road The 400/4 was my first of 4 off 400/4's and I got it via a mate from Mick Buttfield Motorcycles in Acomb York. It turns out my 750K0 also came from him. He now owns York Suzuki centre I think. My mate took over his shop, then went back to being a Pharmacist and passed it on to another mate of mine ('Woody'), who now has a bike shop in another part of York.
HDT2J (CB250K2 with Read Titan 325cc conversion) took up most of my student grant in repairs to the motor in 1975. I rebuilt the engine in my flat on the 3rd floor of a Student House. Landlord was not that keen!
6548
« on: March 09, 2010, 09:36:29 AM »
Hey Chris - I reckon everyone (including me of course) will be 'over the moon' that you have joined this site and that you are prepared to share your vast knowledge with us. I like the fact that you sprayed your sandcast yourself with 'rattle cans', I had just assumed Andrew had done it for you. I did the same with my 400/4, I remember spending 4 full nights after work, in 1986 just spraying on the pinstripes. I should really have been blue (pillion pegs on swinging arm) but I always wanted the F2 one so I opted for non standard, as I was not as fussy then about originality.
cheers
AshD
6549
« on: March 08, 2010, 07:32:52 PM »
Yes LPM are good - I was going to get him to do some commercial work mouldings for me but he was to busy so I got a place in Rotherham to do it, last year . The guy who runs it is Ex-Rover cars. Make sure you remove any traces or release agent though before painting because my K0 airbox has bubbled badly and will need a repaint.
My bike is not progressing at all really as I need a new conrod. I do have one from a later bike but I may hang out for a complete matched set and I have grown to mistrust parts from Ebay UK. Weather is too cold at the mo' anyway.
Sounds like you are busy though!! Has the wife forgiven you yet?
Cheers
AshD
6551
« on: March 08, 2010, 02:04:35 PM »
6552
« on: March 08, 2010, 12:51:31 PM »
Cheers for that Chris - your advice on here is greatly appreciated. BTW I think UKPete now has the 'Bug' Am I correct in assuming the valve cover is clear coated? I know you use Simoniz 5-wheel silver for the crankcases ( as I did on my 400/4 way back in '86) but what about the barells / head? Any recommendations? BTW I found this on the early conrod replacement etc http://data.sohc4.net/SB750/750_31.pdfInteresting to note that all of the early rods were all matched to within 2.5grammes - perhaps it was to achieve the 'tumbler of water on the seat demo' Have you ever used this stuff I mentioned in this post for rust treatment - its absolutely brilliant http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php?topic=2398.msg6240;topicseen#msg6240cheers Ash D.
6553
« on: March 07, 2010, 03:58:24 PM »
This is really a message for SteveD. Do you know if Eamon's K0 has painted head and barrels or not, as I think it was part of the same batch of UK750 imported in Jan '70 as mine. I am getting mine bead blasted shortly but unsure if they were originally painted or not.
Cheers
AshD
6554
« on: March 07, 2010, 01:54:40 PM »
All of the later tanks have some wrinkling but the original Sandcast ones / some K0 you can see the wrinkles whilst looking in the filler cap hole.
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