Honda-SOHC

Hi all, possibly one for Mick / Green1 - but welcome all thoughts.

Have a 2011 Griso 1200SE, which has only got about 3500 dry miles on it. Never seen a dealer whilst in my possession, and probably not since it’s 1st service.

Anyways, it’s a momentary-press starter button, which then cranks the motor as much as necessary. Previously this’d be a couple of seconds.... now it’s a full crank cycle of about 5 secs ... after which it aborts. 2nd attempt sometimes catches, 3 attempts and it’ll catch and keep running... for now. After this it’ll run a bit lumpy for the first mile.

I’ve tightened all the manifold and exhaust clamps, which has cured a pop on the overrun. I’ve put injector cleaner through the tank, and only ever use the highest octane / quality fuel avail.

It’s had new plugs recently; and the tappets adjusted iaw the manual.

MotoGuzzi dealers very thin on the ground here in Bris; by and large I’m not a fan of dealerships / garages unless personally recommended.

Anyhoos folks; thoughts please?

Ta,
Simon

This link has likely been posted before, apologies. Regardless, it will be of use to any CB750K insomniacs ..... 

Cheers,
Lobo

http://honda750expert.com/

.... servicing the old girl today (😱) and thought, “eh up, what’s this all about?”  Am I missing something obvious folk? (at the rear top side of the gear casing CB750K2)

Apologies, likely discussed before...
Interested to learn the criteria in setting the red line (rev) limits on our bikes (or any i/c engine). Whilst I wouldn’t do it - would it be acceptable to take my 47yo K2 upto it’s limit? Is there a 5% rule (or suchlike) that is assumed the engine won’t operate @ the max rpm. Is there a ‘fat factor’... how much? What form would the failure likely take - valves first? So many questions...
Ta..

...not my week for oil weeps. (400F engine too..)
My K2 has developed a slight leak at the stanchon / fork slider seal,  despite new (DSS) aftermarket stanchions / seals 1000 miles or so ago. My guess is oil’s weeping past the seat of the seal, rather than the oil seal lip.
Is this a full stanchion out job... or is there a quick easy way of popping the seal? Certainly with no pitting and new parts I’m inclined to reseat rather than replace.
All comments welcome.
Ta.
Simon

Hi all,

Planning a new headstock plate for my K2; which is missing since PO. Anyways, frame # is CB7502077106.... can anyone please advise me how to go about getting the date of manufacture.

Unless someone has an adjacent number of course!

Ta muchly,
Lobo

Kinda embarrassing after reading James’es / Julie’s restorations (& all the smart stuff everyone here does)... but recently gave new life to a rather tired little SS50 tank. Got it off eBay, complete with minor dents and little bit of internal rust. Took delivery whilst in LHR - it stank of oil, making me fret wrt ‘dangerous goods’ as carry-on for the flight home. So; rinsed it out in the hotel bath (vinegar, shampoo, everything), which only gave me a whole new problem in that I gave the hotel plumbing a run for its money & made the room smell (horribly) like a breakers yard.

Once back home (Brunei) put the tank into a reverse electrolysis bath for 24 hrs which got virtually all of the rust out. Very tidy inside now.

Next up hrs of bloody sanding... and a first in popping the major dent out with a garden hose... simply controlling the pressure inside the tank by varying my fist seal. Dead chuffed with that. For the remaining minor dents - filler of course.

Next up the base layer / rust protection..

And followed by a good few light coats of Kawasaki Green...  I’ve read this is pretty darned close to the original Honda Mighty Green... which my local paint shop simply couldn’t mix up. (I sprayed this via an old compressor / paint gun / 30psi or so)

Then a rub back with 2400 wet & dry.... decals / preserve nature sticker and a good few coats of automotive lacquer. Saddened at the end of all this to have a couple of small areas of orange peel... but bingo, with more light wet & dry + polishing paste these totally disappeared.

Finally - new badges.

The tank, honestly is beautiful, and has a deep rich gloss finish to it. I of course accept it was simple versus the intricate spraying / two tone / flecked / decalling the professionals do, but hey, a  continuing learning curve, and something I’d happily (will) tackle again.

(a couple of years back I did a Parakeet 400F2 tank... came out nicely but with a couple of minor dreaded orange peel areas.  Will go back & see if I can buff them out..)