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Topics - Lobo
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76
« on: July 25, 2015, 08:31:21 AM »
Hiya A ll/sh,
No morn porridge for me this am.... microwave gave up the ghost. Whipped the back off it (warily due biggum condenser I believe) and found this. Basically a one hertz flash over short 3 cycles... and then stops. After a rest will repeat performance.
Anyone / Ash... home repairable? Mrs Lobo cock-a-hoop coz she thinks she's in line for a new one... whereas I've Fizzy parts to buy...
Lobo.
77
« on: June 15, 2015, 08:55:32 PM »
Well folks,
Today I collected a mint'ish 1975 Fizzy. Pretty chuffed with it; an eBay purchase which came in somewhat cheaper than I expected. (But still pricey)
Anyways, it's never been run since resto; was kept as a lounge-piece investment...
No longer... I'll get it MOT'd, insured & soon ridden.
As I say, forgive me. Not a Honda, but as early 70's means a lot to me.
Simon
79
« on: April 21, 2015, 03:19:35 PM »
Just completed a 'new' CB400 speedo today (eBay / £20); my 5th resto (2x 750 + 2 x CB400F) ... getting better all the time. Just want to publicly say a big thanks to Kent400 (Peter) & his generosity / invaluable tips. (Yup, the mileage has been changed... to fit the bike)
Simon
80
« on: April 07, 2015, 06:28:27 AM »
Gents,
My K2 up for MOT, and every year they comment upon the light switch logic (but pass it nevertheless). They have a point - I too wonder if it's been set up wrong... help please.
LH h'bar... that crappy (simple ON/OFF) clamp switch with Low & High... external wiring.
RH h'bar.... OEM. P/L/H
My wiring... crappy switch in L position ... no lighting whatsoever, regardless of RH selection.
Crappy switch H... Parking light on in (P), Low beam in (L) and hi beam in (H) on the OEM.
I understand the logic was to prevent the rider being plunged into darkness if he inadvertently pushed the RH switch all the way to OFF from Hi beam .... but this 'fix' is not much better in reality.
So, has my bike been in ore toy set up?
Ta in advance.
Simon.
81
« on: February 16, 2015, 03:11:48 PM »
Ladies / Gents...help please; I've not a lot of experience with ebay.
Recently 'won' an ebay auction on a 'better than new' SS50, rebuilt at a cost of £4000. (apparently). (got it significantly below this number) Lots of glowing words, including the fact that it has V5 (dealer selling for a friend who could no longer use it).
I paid a deposit & it was due to be delivered to my dad's / Basingstoke last Saturday.
Except on Sat a one sentence email "The Honda will be delivered Sunday 16:00" (the seller doesn't do small talk / social niceties)
I write back along the lines of "Fine, don't forget to send the V5 along; I'll complete it & send it DVLA"
Shirty reply, "I'm a dealer, I know about V5s and it's me who has to send it off"
My reply, "Ok, but I still need to see it / sign" before I hand over the balance"
His reply, "Looking for it..."
And then, "Lost it... will refund your deposit"
I said not acceptable; and that a replacement V5 can be got from the DVLA...
Today's email, "I can't get a V5 easily, and besides someone else wants to buy it without the V5. Will refund your deposit" (why would anyone want a mint / expensive bike without a V5???)
So guys.... I've all the time in the world, and can be bloody minded if I want to be.
And in this case I do.
In the last few minutes I've sent him a copy of the ebay advert which clearly stated the V5 is present. My gut feeling is that he's been offered a better price since the auction ended & he's trying to get out of the deal.
Best way to go about this... I'm determined to make trouble! (and of course I realise that its unlikely I'll get the bike if he's determined not to sell it)
Simon.
83
« on: September 27, 2014, 03:28:05 AM »
These guys have hacked me off ...
Couldn't believe my luck when I found they stocked (1) Genuine part handlebar pipe for my K2: part # etc all correct. Ordered it, & PayPal deducted immediately.
5 days later email confirmation of 'Order Complete'
4 days later computer generated email to say Paypal account refunded full amount... no explanation
Contacted them via the supplied email address.... "email returned due address not valid"
Went back to home page, and via that "Contact us" box asked for an explanation, and gave him 7 days for a reply, after which I'd post here...
Reply... when we came to ship the part we saw it is covered in rust, so no longer for sale, but we have pattern parts in stock"
Called their bluff, but also genuinely responded; "no worries, send it on at a reduced price & I'll get it re chromed myself"
No reply.... resent 2 days later,
No reply... I give up.
So, I'm not out of pocket, but bloody angry at such practices / them taking my cash for 9 days over a part I guess they never had.
Sadly, it's not an uncommon practice, and not the first time (for me); but they're too now off my list.
Cheers,
Simon
84
« on: September 20, 2014, 04:19:58 PM »
Thought I'd have ago.... after all, everything DIY is just nous & patience... right?
Bought a cheapo CB400 tank off ebay @ £31. Looked good... stripped the paint... looked bad. Loadsa filler, been in a spill... or two. Innards though looked fairly ok, and with a bit of electrolysis have banished what light rust there was.
Have never played with filler seriously; and never realised there's various grades as the major dent stuff still leaves significant pin holes / imperfections. So I had to buy finer filler to fill the first filler....
Tried 3 different paints... two rattle can types & one (Honda) automotive. The best colour I could find (er, Brunei) was a Rust-oleum .... which seems pretty damned close to Parakeet as I know it. I then used the same brand primer.
About 5 coats of each & more sanding with P1200 wet & dry than you can shake a stick at. The paint has good resistance to soaking in petrol (test piece) but I still wanted more protection, and so after the decals went on I further applied a couple of coats of an automotive clear lacquer (2 pack).
The results? Think I'm pleased... the tank looks stunning ... from 3 paces back. Up close & it fails the orange peel test. Rather significantly.
Summarising... I've a new found respect for guys who can turn a tank into something most of us take for granted every day .. and given the time & patience invested can fully appreciate the costs they (have to) charge. This said, I could spent all the time in the world on my tank, and never achieve what a professional does... unquestionably there's a lot of skill involved. Due the side panel being a virgin moulding it has come up even better. (but not perfect)
So, enjoyable, massively time consuming, and a reminder lesson that there are some things I'll never be able to do.
85
« on: September 20, 2014, 03:36:17 PM »
Anyone able to comment good.. or bad on these folk?
Ta,
Simon
86
« on: September 11, 2014, 12:28:24 AM »
In the sunny bit of my life I run a little jet boat with a couple of two small 2 strokes in it. Each time I 'put it to bed' - which might be a few months - I blast 15 secs of Mercruiser Storage seal through the air boxes. In this time the engines cough, splutter & finally die, oxy starvation I guess.
My question to the chemists / carb gurus out there (Ash / K2-K6 etc) is whether this might help preserve my old Hondas.... specifically the exhaust systems. (appreciating that a good run is the best starting point)
Unsure of what this spray exactly does, but on start-up there are embarrassing clouds of white smoke for a couple of mins - so it must be good? Right?!
87
« on: August 15, 2014, 01:24:11 PM »
Had a go at a bit of 'Alchemy' this past couple of days due my tank being away at the 'painters... and a substitute gash tank bought off ebay to tide me over. (£31). Anyways, gash tank fairly rusty within, and so had a go at electrolysis... see the below link, Method 4/5 In my case I used an old tin as the anode, flattened & then concertina'd to fit in through the neck. It was attached to a wire coat hanger, suitably bent to hold it clear of the cathode (ie the tank itself) (I guess you're going for max surface area here, ie an old nail etc not good enough) Notably the (modern) battery charger wouldn't work... it detected 'no battery' I guess. So I attached a battery.... and simultaneously then put this on a trickle charge... fooled it. Hah! Within the hour bubbling & fizzing within, and soon after brown / horrible grunge coming out the filler neck. After 15 hrs took the anode out for a look-see; it was covered in rust. Scrubbed it off, and put it back. Another 9 hrs & anode now noted as disintegrating. (see pic) Tank flushed... FILTHY. 3 more flushes & all clear, internal looking great. Sorry on lack of photos, patience isn't a strong point of mine... Will definitely make this process a part of my arsenal... to include old tools etc. Problem with vinegar treatments etc is that damage can be done to adjacent platings etc - I believe this process to be kinder. ALL tech questions to Ash... I failed 'O' level chemistry and haven't a bloody clue, other than pure magic.... Enjoy... http://m.wikihow.com/Remove-Rust-and-Corrosion
88
« on: August 11, 2014, 07:19:13 AM »
Ok. I'm officially confused. Last night went searching for GVH55S on ebay for sales, and to be honest, was surprised at the number of restored (or 'immaculate' 400Fs) with new OEM parts (well, that's how they're described). The thing is... they were mostly in the £3000 - £4000 band, tho' occasionally tipping the scales a little higher.
A lot? Well no according to my spread sheet. I bought my '400 for £1900, and to be honest, am, at the end of its restoration, well above ANY numbers I see on ebay. I acknowledge I do have an almost mint spare exhaust sys & paid for an engine rebuild, but take those out if the equation... and I'm still substantially out of pocket.
So how can anyone who's restored a bike to the standards suggested sell it for the prices I saw last night? It just doesn't add up.
A couple of thoughts.
(1) folks don't mentally keep track of their outgoings... for sure without the spreadsheet I'd never acknowledge my figures. Not by a long chalk. (tip, don't keep a spreadsheet)
(2) my bikes have been an obsession.. no expense spared, and wherever possible I've striven for quality, bought OEM / NOS. They're not quite , but near enough concours.
(3) perhaps, when the time comes, it'd be financially better to break the bikes. (up there with murdering your kids?)
So.... it seems, I'd have been much better off buying an 'expensive' ebay resto, and have been bored.
But regrets, well nope... it's a hobby rather than a business.
Anyways, comments?
Simon
89
« on: July 02, 2014, 09:59:46 PM »
Evening all...
Wanting to replace the (4) cushs in the rear hub of the '400F. Know when I'm beaten... snd have handed over the hub to an engineering firm for the previous inhabitants extraction (& polishing).
But, wanting hints & tips on inserting the new pieces on the hub's return. Am adept at removing / replacing the various bearings.. more of the same? What might I use as a drift? (old cushs are likely to be drilled / milled out, ie destroyed)
Ta,
Simon
90
« on: June 30, 2014, 11:54:31 PM »
Ladies / Gents..
Just removed this DID Rim from my 400F.... can anyone confirm it's an original, and whether its worth re-chroming versus buying the current DSS DID rims ?
Cheers,
Simon
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