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Topics - Lobo
91
« on: June 26, 2014, 10:48:59 PM »
Just laced up my first wheel today.... satisfying, easy'ish... and likely saved £300 I guess. The actual lacing / tru'ing probably took a little over 2 hours. But... the next will be quicker! Not presenting this as 'the only way to do it'... but it worked for me. (1) Get hold of a solid / flat piece of wood, 22"x22" minimum.... an old kitchen unit door? (2) drill an 1/8" hole in its centre. (3) Scribe a circle onto the wood the exact outside diameter of your new rim. I used a hack-saw blade drilled out at the appropriate average radius of my DSS DID rim. (4) Open up the centre hole (using a suitable hole saw) above so that the hub 'boss' drops in @ a snug fit... no play allowed. (Or any suitable method to 'clamp' your hub to the centre of the scribed circle) (5) Insert all spokes into the hub and loosely lace up the wheel using the other Wheel as a reference. (or good photos). Only put 3 or 4 turns on each nipple. Use both the flat wood & stand the wheel up for this... whatever suits. (insert spokes from the outside in & lace these up first, and then insert the other 1/2 of spokes from the inside-out & lace up) (6) With the rim now sloppily laced to the hub lay the whole lot into the wood 'jig'. (7) Place 'spacers' under the rim to raise it to the correct height to the hub. (For some reason this pic is upside down until opened up!) (  Manoeuvre the rim to sit as exactly as possible within the scribed circle... there will be a fair amount of leeway at the point. (9) Now finger tighten / nip up all the nipples. The hard yards are done: the rim should be both laterally & radially pretty much 'there'. (10) Assemble the hub completely, and mount onto the bike. (11) Grab a cuppa tea, put radio on, lie next to the bike and stick a strip of masking tape across any two points... I used the front stays in the below pic. (... and this pic is on its side!) (12) Radial adjustment (making it circular). Spin the wheel slowly... and tighten / loosen spoke nipples accordingly. Move the tape as you really get the tolerances down. You're aiming for abouts 0.03" or just <1mm. Doable... with a bit of patience (13) Axial play... on the tape draw vertical 'boundary' lines to coincide with the rim width. Adjust the nipples (ie tighten one side / loosen the other) to pull the rim to one side or the other. Again, not as difficult as you'd imagine. (14) spin the wheel more & recheck that radial play / adjust if necessary. (15) ditto axial play. (16) Just about done...ping all spokes with a screwdriver and check all give a nice ring. Any dull 'thunks' and that spoke needs tightening up. (and possibly a recheck of radial / axial plays) (17) Treat yourself to something with the £300 saved...
92
« on: June 25, 2014, 08:23:09 AM »
Hi,
Doing a major overhaul of the hubs as I put on new rims....
Anyways, whilst the gear drive looks like its never meant to be serviced / dismantled... any pointers as to whether it can easily be so... and tips?
Or do I just put in fresh grease & give it an external clean?
Ta,
S
93
« on: June 18, 2014, 12:53:07 PM »
Gents...
About to renew / replace my old tank badges with nice new ones (OEM) inc the 4 fasteners. Can anyone advise me how to go about this with the minimum fuss / damage to the pristine tank?
Ta muchly,
Simon
94
« on: May 25, 2014, 03:04:24 PM »
Hi,
Looking for a quality 'one-stop' shop to provide me wheel bearing service kits (ie all bearings + dust seals / covers) for the above 2 bikes. Hoping to lace up 4 x wheels soon & may as well go the whole hog. Not necessarily OEM, but as I say, quality.
DSS showing n/a on some parts...
Cheers...
95
« on: May 24, 2014, 02:30:54 AM »
Morn all,
About to put new rims on the bike, and whilst at it overhaul the hubs. Confused, as ordered (K2) cush's off ebay .... which don't match what I have on my bike. I think I've been done... are they F1 parts? (as below pic)
And, more importantly, where can I get the correct parts (ie the tear drop shape - see below)
My cushs - 8 pieces... are larg'ish & tear drop shaped, and in 2 colours... maroon & black, denoting which side they sit in the drive hub. But, they visually don't match my Honda manual... so I'm left wondering whether my hub is a '72 CB750. Sorry, no pics at hand of my bike. Comments? Ta.
96
« on: May 03, 2014, 11:04:09 PM »
So, my first time filling the 400F (@ a petrol station) since the restoration. No spills, all fine, and a quick blast home.
3 hours later went to coo over the bike and.... BLOODY HELL!
It appears that petrol had 'wicked' under the paint from the filler neck and destroyed the finish. (and yes, the fuel level was below the neck on the side stand)
This was a professional cellulose paint designed for motorcycles. And applied by a skilled sprayer (non professional), who to be fair, on the face of it did a fantastic job.
Q. Do I take up the issue with the paint manufacturer or 'blame' the painter?
If anyone happens to know a useful name / address of the paint supplier can you let me know.... as a generic "Customer Services" is generally the green flag for them to file my complaint 'WPB'.
Cheers,
Simon
97
« on: May 01, 2014, 07:18:58 PM »
I am continually amazed by the stuff we guys hoard on here; ask for anything & someone will have it. Bloody great...
But, there is a cost to this, ie the filling up of sheds, attics etc etc... where does it all end?
Anyways, my point is, I've just had to change the fork stanchions of my '750 due pitting. And the big question is what do I do with the old ones... are they junk or somehow worth keeping? The officianardos on here might cry, "They're Honda, re chrome them!" ... but that's just more bloody cash I'll never get back.
So ladies / gents... do I hang onto my growing collection of rusty / pitted / worn out parts or take the advice of my frustrated missus & bin genuinely unserviceable parts as I replace them?
98
« on: February 10, 2014, 02:59:36 PM »
Recently applied to the DVLA (via correct form) as to the whereabouts of my 1978 CB400F2 - which I see is SORN'd. Gave the explanation that I was its first owner, and would like to approach its current owner with a view to buying it back. Mentioned I understood privacy laws etc, and would be more than happy for the DVLA to please just forward my request / email address on & leave it up to the owner whether he wanted to get in touch.
Alas...
99
« on: January 26, 2014, 06:37:32 AM »
Hi OddJob,
Read in a post of yours recently that the leading nut has to be tightened up first (on the fork axle) and only then, tighten the trailing nut.
Do not doubt your knowledge, and will re-do my axles (750 & 400).... simply asking 'why' out of mechanical interest. If anything I can see a reason not to... ie the both the nuts & the mating surfaces (axle holder to lower fork) will not be square by tightening the leading nut first - leading to deformation and then loosening (of the fork axle bracket) due the relatively soft alloys?
Cheers,
Simon
100
« on: January 12, 2014, 08:02:21 AM »
Hi all,
A year + down the track from importing my Cb400F (from EIRE) I'm just about there.... BrianJ suggested a long while ago I post 'the experience' as may be of use. So here goes, and first up, a big thanks to Brian who was always quick with invaluable pm responses.
First up, I am not going into details of forms, because one thing I learned in the space of 12 months is how quickly the process can / does change. Bottom line, you've gotta keep your eye on the ball, and not assume things stay the way they were 6 months ago....
Whatever your plans for the bike (SORN, Long resto etc) you MUST inform HMRC <14 days of it arriving on-shore so that import duty can be assessed. Beware.... take longer than this & they are able to fine you £5/day for late paperwork.. ouch. The HMRC forms can be found on the Government Gateway website. (no tax applicable to my EU import)
DVLA cannot do anything until the bike has cleared customs... (HMRC inform the DVLA directly)
In my case a nuts & bolts resto was done, and so I stopped the admin process here & concentrated on the rebuild, ie no SORN, or road tax sought, indeed the bike sat in the garage uninsured for a year... if you'd wanted to steal it you'd have needed a skip anyways.
At completion of rebuild, in order for the DVLA to put the bike on the UK register it needed an MOT. This can be done without any insurance, and in my case I rang my local motorbike garage who do a bloody great £10 pick-up / drop off service in their Transit van & took the bike away. They then issued a valid MOT using the frame number... which is obviously read from the headstock (versus alloy plate) Tip - if you get the frame powder coated etc ensure the # still legible!
Next up you have to insure the bike < the DVLA will issue a V5C. Ring your insurance co with the frame #; and they will issue a one-off 30 day insurance certificate for registration purposes. DO NOT arrange this until you are ready to send off all the guff to DVLA due this short time-window. Furthermore, my insurance co (Footman James) told me only 3 such one-offs could be issued... unsure why.
Then get the correct DVLA Registration application form (V55C currently) & fill it in. Fairly straightforward, a lot of stuff about 'Cert of conformity'... which you can ignore if the bike > 10 yrs old. Bung the required £s for road tax, + £55 processing fee + previous foreign reg document + completed V55C + insurance cert + whatever else in an envelope to DVLA... and wait. (extremely bloody unhelpfully all district DVLA offices are now closed, leaving only Swansea. You cannot drive down there for a chat... no face-face facilities. They do however operate phone lines... the guy was quite helpful)
Note that DVLA are perfectly entitled to want to inspect the bike themselves... in which case (I guess) you're talking trailering the bloody thing to S.Wales. Lovely...
About 10 days later the V5C form arrived, with a registration year applicable to the year of build... my '77 bike has been allocated an 'R' plate. (and a Birmingham 'SOU' prefix - no idea why, but who cares?). And for some reason the 12 months tax disc has not been included...they wrote:
"There are currently changes taking place regarding the registration of imported vehicles within the DVLA. As a result of these changes in some cases our customers are receiving the V5C Registration Certificates before the replacement tax discs, MOT Certificates and V948 authorisation letters.
The new tax disc/MOT should arrive within 10 working days. If you do not receive these documents within this time please contact us."
....and this is where I am today..
Anyways, with the registration in hand, the last things to do are to take the V5C into (eg) Halfords & get a plate made up (take your drivers licence as proof of address)... and ring your insurance company to amend the frame # to number plate reg.
Tips...
(1) buy a bloody UK registered bike!
(2) if you buy an import get the HMRC sorted out ASAP.
(3) take your time here & enjoy the restoration.
(4) MOT the bike and register it all within 30 days
To fair, the process not insurmountable, and would not put me off buying a nice machine. (wouldn't swap mine now; I reckon it spent the first 25 years of its life in a sunny part of the 'States and was consequently in generally great condition throughout.)
Deviations from the above, eg no original paperwork (ie previous owners 'V5'); or modified bike I cannot comment upon.
Cheers,
Simon
101
« on: January 08, 2014, 03:10:11 AM »
Morn all,
Finally have got the CB400F on the UK register, not that I was in any rush with the 2 other bikes & winter etc.
Anyways, it's been given an 'R' registration (1977) with the prefix SOH.
Now, whilst this may be DVLCs sop to this forum, any other inputs as to what those letters infer welcomed.
Just interested, & thanks,
Simon
102
« on: January 02, 2014, 08:19:56 AM »
Morn all,
One of the steering limit lugs is slightly bent - in a past life the bike (750K2) must have had a fall. Problem is, the yolk just touches the tank at left lock. Until now I've bodged it with a slip-on heater hose 'washer' (which slips over the lug) - but time now to fix ... assuming relatively easy. Hmm...
Suggestions please?
103
« on: December 26, 2013, 09:27:54 AM »
Morn all.... & a very Happy Xmas.
A few days ago took the non-standard bars off my '750K2 & replaced with OEM style. Much better... Now the brake m/c boot clears the rev counter housing..
Anyways, these bars are the same profile as I've got on the 400F, except the 3" section between the mounting points are a thicker diameter - ie the bars are stepped here. Haven't stuck a vernier across them but would guess an increase of about 2mm.
My 400F bars are unlike this... ie are a constant diameter over their length. Anyone able to say which type are OEM?
Cheers,
Simon.
104
« on: December 22, 2013, 10:37:03 PM »
Today, reinstated the light switches to the English spec by putting back the left hand 'clamp' light switch. But confused.... it operates (as I've colour coded connected it) as simply a 'master switch' to the lighting circuit - is this correct?
I ask because I'm bloody certain I read somewhere that the UK vehicle approval folk were not happy with the RH slider switch.... ie too easy to plunge yourself into darkness as you dipped from high beam to low in a corner (ie moving the slider full left). Makes sense...
And thus, I assumed, the LH clamp switch, with its up / down movement was going to be High / Low beam, with the RH switch positions being OFF / Sidelamp / Main beam.
Anyways, please is it now set up correctly?
Ta muchly,
Simon.
105
« on: October 31, 2013, 11:50:13 PM »
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