Honda-SOHC

Im assuming that the dowels are designed to be retained in the head and not in the rocker housing? Giving the top end of the dowel a few taps with a blunt punch might hep free off some of the corrosion?

Following the successful (final) removal of the seized oil filter bolt and the seized engine hanger I have got the engine out and on the workbench. Sump, breather cover, cam end covers removed. Rocker cover/assembly screws and bolts all removed thanks to the impact driver and JIS bits recommended by this forum. However, the rocker cover/assembly wont lift off. I have given it a few taps with the soft mallet and checked for hidden bolts but I cant see anything I have missed. There is a clear gap at the front of the engine between the cover and the head but at the back (intake side) there is no gap at all. It looks as if there are a couple of locating dowels on the back edge which if steel may have corroded and stuck fast. Is there a bolt/screw I may have missed and what are the thoughts about the locating dowels sticking; does this happen and if so is there a remedy? I have attached an aerial view in case there is something obvious to the experts. Many thanks. Mike

You ust be chuffed.
What replacement bolt will you be using? There are non OEM bolts with a larger hex. Less change to get mangled.

Thanks Jan! Yes chuffed but more relieved that I got it out OK. I havent yet thought about what replacement but a good call that some have larger bolt heads. I will also need the washer that goes between the spring and oil filter. It was either never there or I threw it out with the old (ancient) oil filter I removed. I did have a dig through the bin but didnt find anything.

Great feeling. Good job

Very surprised the stud extractor did not work. Did you use the one size smaller than the one that fit and tap it on?

Yes and it just tore off some of the remaining metal but there was just a small nub left.

Still I’m sure they will come in useful in the future

Victory is mine! The bolt extractor sockets didnt work although a great purchase for future use. Eventually I had to opt for cold chisel and the big hammer - thank goodness for the flange under the bolt head.

Its just too far gone. Smaller socket tried and it just broke away from the head of the bolt with a sprinkle of metal chips from the head. I think that I will try and remove the engine from the frame with the housing in situ and then try again when its on the bench and I have good access. Last resort will be to drill out/grind off (carefully) the remainder of the hex head so that the flange can be removed and then it should be possible to withdraw the filter housing over the oil bolt and then remove the remains of the oil bolt once the housing and filter have been removed? What a faff.

I don't think a scotchbrite pad will be aggressive enough. May be wrong, but I would expect that to be a long job and lots of pads. 240 grit wet and dry, used dry, might be better, but the creases and corners will be tricky, if you try to get all the paint off. I found the dremel, used with the flexible extension head and a range of brass brushes, worked quickly, got into nooks and crannies and didn't damage the alloy. I then went over once with some wet and dry to key it. Took me 2 to 3 hours to do and another hour to brush clear all the little brass tines off the floor. You do go through the brass brushes in that job.

Thanks. Im pondering over my engine before I take it out the frame next weekend. When you painted the assembled bottom end how did you deal with the bolts in the casings? Did you remove them in sections and re-torque after painting or mask them in some way? Thanks, mike