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« Last post by K2-K6 on Today at 11:48:36 AM »
Topic debated before, assembly of front brake caliper and the lubricant to use in this assembly.
From 1970 CB 750 Honda workshop manual;- Verbatim "Note : Use silicon sealing grease (temperature range of -67~ 392 F (-55 ~ 200C). Do not use molybdenum grease known as brake grease. "
This accompanying a schematic of caliper showing the application point as both recess that accomodate active and fixed pads.
Also from Honda workshop manual 1978 CB 750 (last of SOHC bikes, with illustration of the K7 caliper in arrangement parallel to all the previous 4 cylinder motorcycle calipers;- verbatim "Install a new piston seal. Coat the piston with silicon grease and install it. Apply silicon grease to the brake pad outer circumference and install."
This, in my appreciation of it, is that Honda direct the use of this grease only in assembly of the caliper.
Anecdotal view, I've been using silicone grease in this way for some time. Part of this is that it appears to be the only common one I can use in system with mineral oil, or conventional dot fluid or silicone based fluid.
Interestingly, I dont get brake squeal in any system when using this method. It seems to offer the most competent piston return over significant period of use, being all but impervious to water ingress when exposed to poor working conditions too.
Both cycle disc (working on two four and six piston calipers) that have very concise demands in preventing drag by piston contraction when releaesd, also cars & bikes when placed on mot rollers to test, these having notably extremely low drag before brake application.
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« Last post by Pauarc on Today at 11:39:24 AM »
Thanks for the help will have to drop the pan and see
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« Last post by Moorey on Today at 11:36:38 AM »
Interesting comments guys and agree with all said. A tv programme came on the night before I went away to pick up vehicle and it was a feature regarding cost comparisons from a survey/tests carried out by the RAC. Results were an EV charged from home on average was around 7p per mile, a petrol/diesel was 17p per mile and an EV charged with fast/rapid public chargers 22p per mile. I agree it’s early days still with alternative fuel options and not convinced it’s going to be electric but we may not be around when the new fuel becomes the norm, so for the moment I’m happy to give the electric a go. We’ve got the diesel burner as well in the form of a Trafic crew van and that is what we take on the long runs off the island because we need the carrying capacity. For instance today we have done about 6 miles in the car and that will be similar tomorrow. Alas don’t panick guys I haven’t lost enough marbles to go out and buy an e motorcycle! 😂😂😂
In your situation it makes perfect sense to get one and I would think it should do at least 10 to 15 years should you choose to keep lt.
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« Last post by K2-K6 on Today at 09:21:01 AM »
They are a pretty durable chain and generally don't display premature wear when used with decent service schedule.
There's schematic in the official manual showing where to measure and asses to chain. Described with vernier caliper in depth measurement from face of oil pan mating surface up to a point on the tensioner arm.
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The world is full of optimists it would seem.
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My wife has a 2023 Jazz Hybrid .. complicated yea but does 67 mpg even around town
These days if your family car doesn't do at least 50mpg (if you stick to the speed limits) then you either have the wrong car or want to waste money. So actually petrol cost in miles per £ is cheaper than ever.
A pity the cheap electric cars look like they will not be available so as to protect western manufacturing which is lagging behind. T introduced a 25% tax and now B has upped it to 100% in the US on Chinese imports. Expect protection here also.
Renault Zoe is very old technology.
IMHO mpg be it 25 mpg or 50 mpg is not the main cost of car ownership so it has never been a factor for me - we feel it is as its a weekly or monthly cost to fill up with fuel. Doubling your mpg does not halve your true cost per mile of motoring even more so if you drive less than 5k miles in a year (I drive closer to 3k p.a. now). The largest single costs for most private motorists is depreciation, plus other overheads such as Insurance, maintainence , Mot plus where applicable VED. Then there is the cost of buying a replacement vehicle that has gone up due to inflation. I buy used, I tend to keep a car for at least five years - my record for ownership is 12 years. Increasing maintainence costs tend to be the decider when it comes to change. My current XC40 is the most expensive car I have ever bought in my life by a consderable multiplier (4) - I splashed out as it will be my last one so treated myself after 59 years of motoring.
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« Last post by Johnny4428 on May 27, 2024, 10:31:17 PM »
Interesting comments guys and agree with all said. A tv programme came on the night before I went away to pick up vehicle and it was a feature regarding cost comparisons from a survey/tests carried out by the RAC. Results were an EV charged from home on average was around 7p per mile, a petrol/diesel was 17p per mile and an EV charged with fast/rapid public chargers 22p per mile. I agree it’s early days still with alternative fuel options and not convinced it’s going to be electric but we may not be around when the new fuel becomes the norm, so for the moment I’m happy to give the electric a go. We’ve got the diesel burner as well in the form of a Trafic crew van and that is what we take on the long runs off the island because we need the carrying capacity. For instance today we have done about 6 miles in the car and that will be similar tomorrow. Alas don’t panick guys I haven’t lost enough marbles to go out and buy an e motorcycle! 😂😂😂
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« Last post by deltarider on May 27, 2024, 09:56:57 PM »
Tried and tested by a forum member, hardly unknown!
Tested for how long? Did he have a look at the inside, the wires, the quality of the isolation in there? If a coil is of a known brand, you can buy it, even when it's made in P.R.C. If it's a no brand and made in P.R.C, look elswehere. My advice.
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« Last post by deltarider on May 27, 2024, 09:51:42 PM »
It used to be part of a Suzuki service schedule to swop the plugs 1 to 4 and 2 to 3 to even out the spark erosion wear
Yep, you can do that, but personally I never felt the need, meaning: I never noticed a difference in erosion of the electrodes in such a degree that I've would have judged swopping necessary.
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« Last post by archmill on May 27, 2024, 09:42:56 PM »
Pauarc, just re-newed the primary chains and tensioner on a 79 F2. The limit on the F2 is 70mm and mine measured 70mm so new chains and tensioner from CMSNL. after fitting, the measurement was 63mm. I think the limit of 70mm is for all 750 SOHC engines but double check.
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