Honda-SOHC

Thanks all so far with the help in my initial steps with this project: rebuilding the carbs to get the bike running pre-stripdown, removal of the stuck rocker cover, knocking out the shock mounts from the swinging arm, removal of the steering races and identification of mystery parts along the way. The bike is now stripped down apart from the bottom end which Im intending to leave intact and, so far the wheels are still 'bearings in'. The first outside job of repainting the frame, swinging arm and various other brackets etc should start tomorrow.

Whilst Im waiting for the frame painting I am getting on with the head. All valves etc are out, the head is decarboned and Im now decarboning the valves pre to lapping them in. Whilst working on the inlet valve for #2 cyclinder I can see there is damage/an imperfection in the valve face (see picture). Should this valve be replaced with a new one and if so is it OK to replace one valve only? I have checked piston #2 and there is no sign of any impact damage on the piston. Also there is a single valve collet hiding somehwere on the floor of the shed which Im hoping to find but is so far proving elusive. Thanks, Mike

Well I dont think my 5/8 socket is ever going to be the same but they're out!

Thanks Bryan. I can see how to remove the other parts apart from the rear brake pivot arm; does the rear brake pivot arm just knock out? I cant see a circlip or anything holding it in but dont want to start bashing it unless Im sure. Also, once the old-style ball races are out of the steering tube, is it worthwhile replacing with a set of taper bearings/races in your opinion or would you stick with the ball races? Thanks again.

Hi all. I have stripped the bike and the next task is the repainting of the frame and swinging arm. I am taking it to a local stove enameller that does bikes and will do the masking. I have removed all brackets, grommets, rubbers, stands, springs and fasteners etc. Only parts still in/on the frame are the rear brake pivot linkage, head bearing cups and shock absorber bushes. Do these all need to be removed too and if so any tips for their removal? Thanks

No matter what set you need thicker O rings at the headgasket than those in the set

Does this apply to all gasket sets Bryan or just relating to this particular model? I will be putting the top end back together on my CB550 in the next month or 2 and it would be good know if I’m going to need to source some different O rings.

Old bushes knocked out today. They were as Julie described: a sort of Bakelite material, definitely not metal. I concocted a tool to knock them out made of a length of M10 studding. Worked a treat. When it comes time to put the arm back in the frame I’m probably going to need some help. Looking at the parts diagram I don’t recall there being that many spacers and washers etc when I took it apart. Everything that came off was bagged up however,
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Another newbie question. I am getting close to the point where I can send the frame to the paintshop for stripping/enamelling. I have taken off the swinging arm, removed the pivot bolt & the end caps. I assume that where the manual (Im mainly using Haynes) describes 'bushes' it is referring to the inner (steel?) sleeve. Having only worked on old Brit bikes previously, to me a swinging arm bush is a short brass or phosphor bronze insert. Subject to the bush sleeve being within tolerance I am planning to leave it in the swinging arm whilst it is repainted; masking the ends and the grease nipple. Is this approach OK and is my understanding of what needs to be checked for tolerance correct? Thanks

As long as the nut screws on leave it alone as you dont need that slot

That’s good to know Bryan. How do I switch it from slack to tensioned when I rebuild the engine?