This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Spitfire
Pages: 1 ... 112 113 [114] 115
1696
« on: May 04, 2007, 07:22:46 PM »
If your wheel is the same as the K's and F1 the alloy retaining ring has been caulked, a punch has been used on the circumference of the ring to stop it coming loose. These should be drilled out otherwise you will ruin the thread, what I did next was to get some flatbar, drilled two holes in the same distance apart as the slots in the ring. I then put two bolts through the holes tightened up two nuts on the other side, files flats into the bolt ends to fit the slots in the retainer ring. Hey presto a genuine Hondaish tool !
Looking at your photo you will have to first remove the wheel spindle, looking at the F2 manual it should just push out.
Cheers
Den
1697
« on: February 21, 2007, 09:46:21 AM »
The way that I remove them is to file the bolt head back to it's normal shape, hammer on an 11mm socket (normal size 12 mm) and it usually comes off. Give the bolt head a few sharp taps with a hammer to jolt the threads first, this usually does the trick.
Cheers
Den
1698
« on: February 07, 2007, 06:29:14 PM »
That sure looks good.
Cheers
Den
1699
« on: January 05, 2007, 11:57:36 AM »
Hi Ray,
Does it drive through the flat spot ? It does sound like carbs to me but I am no expert, check the simple things first:
Make sure that the choke is operating correctly, the K7 has a choke cable rather than the simpler mechanical choke of the earlier carbs.
Give it a quick run with the air filter element removed, just leave the airbox empty.
Check your float bowls for dirt, check the main jets are clean, K7 main jet should be 115, slow 35.
The K7 series was similar to the CB750F2 and had the same later carbs with the accelerator pump.
Buy a good manual, David Silver spares sold me a good one for the CB750F2/K7.
Jonny the jetting for the F1 is 105 main and 40 slow.
Cheers
Den
1700
« on: December 27, 2006, 11:31:50 AM »
Hi Phil,
Just had all my stuff powder coated at Elite Engineering in Liverpool, they did a great job, and did some minor weld repairs to my frame that were revealed after blasting, they are not cheap but they are good, depend where in the UK you are based.
Cheers
Den
1701
« on: December 20, 2006, 05:00:53 PM »
Hi Dave,
It does make a lot of difference where you put the different types of rings, as they are designed to do different jobs (sealing etc)
The top compression ring should be marked (R,T etc) and if you look closely it will be concave at the top (and shiny), the middle oil control ring has a step in it, the step should be at the bottom (piston skirt).
The oil scraper ring comes in three pieces (old ones are one piece), two thin rings and a wavy ring (technical term !), again these two thin rings should have their gaps staggered.
Also ensure that the piston ring grooves are clean and that the rings can move freely, measure the clearance with the ring in place, max 0.18mm for the top ring, 0.165mm for the second ring.
If the breather from the cam cover is blowing then your crankcases are pressured up indicating piston/barrel problems.
Cheers
Den
1702
« on: December 18, 2006, 11:35:34 AM »
CMS have exhaust valves, but at a price, the best bet would be to ring David Silver Spares, they do not list F2 valves but may be able to get them.
Cheers
Den
1703
« on: December 15, 2006, 05:14:51 PM »
Hi,
The 1978 carbs are a different model to the 73 carbs, I think they are a larger bore (28 mm) with 110 main jet and 35 idle jets, and are fitted with an accelerator jet.
The 73 could have 120 main and 40 idle, so they are probably not usable as they are. The 78 engine may have bigger valves and definately has larger carb boots.
With the latter boots and re jetting you could probably use the carbs, you will have to find a way to fit a choke cable as well as the later bike had a choke lever on the handlebars.
Or look for a set of carbs for a 73 on eBay, and sell the ones you have..
Cheers
Den
1704
« on: December 04, 2006, 02:50:52 PM »
Hi Ed,
From what I have read the F2 head and barrels are not interchangeable with the other CB750's, the head was new for the F2 and has deeper hemispheres, the pistons are domed and can only be used on the F2/3.
Checking the F2 and F1 parts books the parts numbers are different, also for the F2 the parts number for the barrels and pistons are different depending on serial number and area the bike was sold to.
Barrels:
12100-410-000, serial, 1006022
12100-410-010, serial 1006023
Pistons
Standard
13101-410-003, serial 2609696
There is another standard piston part number,
13101-410-010, serial 2609695.
Cheers
Den
1705
« on: November 29, 2006, 10:30:15 AM »
Hi Nick,
That does not look good, if it was my bike I would take the engine out, clean up the frame check for more corrosion and get it welded up.
Cheers
Den
1706
« on: November 25, 2006, 04:50:16 PM »
Hi Nick,
I used to own a CB750K1 and the centre stand siezed on me, when I looked closer the centre stand pivot had rusted to the centre stand and had been turning in the frame clamps. The only way to remove the stand was to twist the frame clamps. Sounds like this has happened to your bike in the past. What I did was to have two blocks made which I bolted to the clamps and hung the centre stand from them, it did not look pretty but worked.
Would like to see a photo of the bar before passing any further comment.
Cheers
Den
1707
« on: November 19, 2006, 08:01:38 PM »
Hi Dave,
To change the camchain you would have to remove the engine from the frame, also the original chain is endless so would require a full strip. Why do you want to change the cam chain ?
The rear light/number plate on the CB750F1 and F2 (I own one of each) are both fitted to a chrome rail which runs just below seat height and has a bracket on the rear, have never seen one fitted to a seat tail.
For most parts for your bike I would recommend David Silver Spares.
Finding a standard exhaust would be very difficult (and expensive) the same applies for a chainguard, you might find something on eBay though.
Welcme to the SOHC world.
Cheers
Dennis
1708
« on: November 13, 2006, 04:43:45 PM »
Hi,
Just replaced my valve/cam cover bolts with new chromed Allen headed ones from Custom Fasteners, they list an engine cover set but it does not include the cam cover.
Got the sizes from my parts book (CB750F1) they should be the same for your bike, they have to be ordered individually from their website, the sizes are:
No. Size Postion
10 6 X 63 6 forward 4 back, ordered 65 mm size
4 6 X 40 2 each end
2 6 X 75 Breather cover rear
1 6 X 50 Breather cover front
The Honda manual states 5.1 - 8.0 ft-lbs for 6mm screw, I've just bought a set of Allen screw sockets for my 3/8th torque wrench from Machine Mart.
Cheers
Den
1709
« on: November 09, 2006, 05:12:34 PM »
Hi Mick,
Fancy meeting you here !
Cheers
Den
1710
« on: October 13, 2006, 04:09:02 PM »
Hi,
Don't really know how to answer this one as the US models were different to the UK, but I'll have a go.
The Honda CB750 SOHC (single over head cam) was produced from 1968 to 1978, originally when I first bought a CB750 they were purely known as Honda fours because there was no other 4 cylinder Honda's, rightly Honda plastered 750 four on the side panels and every where else to show off ! So this may be were you have been confused, some people call them 750 fours, some people call them CB750's.
In the SOHC production run the bikes varied from the sports tourers labelled
CB750K's and the latter more (?) sporty CB750F models which were produce alonside the K's. The CB750F's were also tagged as Super Sports (SS). The engine changed internally, and the cosmetics changed quite a bit over the years. So the real difference is in the model either CB750K or CB750F.
Hope this helps
Dennis
Pages: 1 ... 112 113 [114] 115
|
Show Posts