Honda-SOHC
Other Stuff => Misc / Open => Topic started by: AshimotoK0 on December 30, 2019, 02:53:27 PM
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Anyone used this 2-pack in an aerosol clear coat on hubs/alloy engine parts/fork legs etc? If so did you go for satin or gloss.
Bl**dy expensive I know but looks like a quality product and claims it has a 48 hour pot life, which I didn't expect.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2K-aerosol-SprayMax-SATIN-Lacquer-Clear-Coat-Spray-400ml-art-no-680067-German/262191462765?hash=item3d0bd4396d:g:YUwAAOSw7FRWbudz
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNRKHGNiveo
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Its says do not polish, that puts me off a bit
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Its says do not polish, that puts me off a bit
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It's also available in full gloss Pete ... see video clip.
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Hi Ash,
Hope all is well down in God’s own Shire,
I’ve been using 2k aerosols for a good while with great success. Never tried clearcoat but can’t see it would behave any differently.
Auto Paints in Courtney Street, Hull (on the small industrial estate) have supplied the paint for my Norton 350 and some parts I painted on the ‘Scottish’ 400/4. Might be worth a call to them to discuss your needs?
http://www.stallard-engineering.co.uk/stories/Bikes/British/norton_model_50_350cc%20Part%209.htm
Ian
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Carefull with laquer on engine cases as it will discolour(usually yellow) if overheated
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Most 2k lacquer will yellow over 60c. Have never found a high temp one yet that works.
Pot life is more like 3 to 5 hours as soon as the can has been activated the hardener is working.
Spray nozzle will need cleaning after every coat and it needs to be done in a controlled environment , 15 to 20c and dry air.
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Most 2k lacquer will yellow over 60c. Have never found a high temp one yet that works.
Pot life is more like 3 to 5 hours as soon as the can has been activated the hardener is working.
Spray nozzle will need cleaning after every coat and it needs to be done in a controlled environment , 15 to 20c and dry air.
So what do you recommend then for engine covers ?
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If it’s proper 2K don’t use in without a respirator or you will regret it ;)
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Most 2k lacquer will yellow over 60c. Have never found a high temp one yet that works.
Pot life is more like 3 to 5 hours as soon as the can has been activated the hardener is working.
Spray nozzle will need cleaning after every coat and it needs to be done in a controlled environment , 15 to 20c and dry air.
So what do you recommend then for engine covers ?
Lacquer will not stick to alloy polished covers, you will get runs. Easy to lacquer a large flat area, than a undulating surface. Just polish the covers and keep buffing to keep them in good order ;)
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Most 2k lacquer will yellow over 60c. Have never found a high temp one yet that works.
Pot life is more like 3 to 5 hours as soon as the can has been activated the hardener is working.
Spray nozzle will need cleaning after every coat and it needs to be done in a controlled environment , 15 to 20c and dry air.
So what do you recommend then for engine covers ?
Lacquer will not stick to alloy polished covers, you will get runs. Easy to lacquer a large flat area, than a undulating surface. Just polish the covers and keep buffing to keep them in good order ;)
Nah ..don't like that .. will finda decent clearcoat mate.
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The original Honda Lacquer was a etch lacquer that had a acid in it. This has been banned for many years, maybe you will find it in the outback of china somewhere ;)
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The original Honda Lacquer was a etch lacquer that had a acid in it. This has been banned for many years, maybe you will find it in the outback of china somewhere ;)
I understood it was a pre-treatment to the alloy with chromic acid based etchant. You can still get it Alodine 1001 is a typical product and an alternative is Iridite NCP (chrome & cadmium free). I understand you don't need to go to China to have it done ... Leeds is a bit closer for me.
http://www.silchrome.co.uk/products--services/conversion-coatings
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Is that I clear coat ? It looks like a dipping process.
I had a NOS new 500 four clutch housing in. The flat outer face had no coating on it whatsoever but, the rest did.
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Is that I clear coat ? It looks like a dipping process.
I had a NOS new 500 four clutch housing in. The flat outer face had no coating on it whatsoever but, the rest did.
Yes it's a surface treatment and this can then be clear coated... just like he great Vic World does to his Sandcast restorations.
[attachimg=1]
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I wish I could have a chance to build a sandcast engine one day, then I could have my name in lights ;D ;D ;D
You can easy get etch primer but, I have never understood why you can't get a etch clear coat.
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I wish I could have a chance to build a sandcast engine one day, then I could have my name in lights ;D ;D ;D
You can easy get etch primer but, I have never understood why you can't get a etch clear coat.
lol
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I wish I could have a chance to build a sandcast engine one day, then I could have my name in lights ;D ;D ;D
You can easy get etch primer but, I have never understood why you can't get a etch clear coat.
lol
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Joking aside James ;D Do you have any recommendations?
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The only recommendation I’ve seen recently that I would think merits investigation is Cerakote clear finish - but it’s a pro-only application and probably not cheap. Flying Tiger are a cerakote approved painter I think - worth looking up..
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