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Messages - PJM47
16
« on: October 24, 2020, 04:23:18 PM »
yes what I thought. That centre one is the worst case and I will replace the pair. I was hoping to avoid having to replace them all though as they are so expensive, but maybe it's worth doing now. What seems like a no brainer job on this bike is always a hesitation as everything is so expensive. If anyone has a source of bearings cheaper than £15 a shell that would be good  I think I have worked out the codes, BABBB on the case and AAAAA on the crank so I make that 4 greens and a yellow. Big end bearings all look pretty good, much better than the mains.
17
« on: October 24, 2020, 03:30:45 PM »
Ta, the bores are in good condition no sign of scoring or lips where the pistons end so should be ok but I will check anyway.
On to the main bearings, please could people advise on whether they think these should be replaced, I know not easy to tell from the pictures. Any help appreciated as always.
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18
« on: October 23, 2020, 02:52:54 PM »
Can I measure the bores myself with the right equipment? I prefer to invest in tools and learning rather than get someone else to do things where possible. Visually the cylinders look in good shape though.
19
« on: October 20, 2020, 07:18:42 PM »
Yes hopefully that’s it. Evetthing else seems nice and straight and in good condition. Just waiting for all the bits to arrive. New cam and primary chains and tensioners. New seals everywhere new piston rings. And I’ll do the valve guide seals and lap. Should be a nice little overhaul for it anyway.
Do we think I need to give the cylinders a light hone to put cross hatching back to settle in the new rings or is best to leave as is?
20
« on: October 19, 2020, 10:15:11 PM »
Hi
Looks like a glacier bush to me
I have changed these on my RD350LC kick starter idler and the clutch centre bush so could be well worth while if it’s shot pressing it out and getting a size and asking a local bearing supplier if they could supply a new one
As then the bush and gear would be as good as new
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Interesting thanks. I will look into it.
21
« on: October 19, 2020, 08:33:42 PM »
I sssume that bush is not replaceable?
I wonder if the bush has pushed in/back slightly under the stress allowing the gear to move further up the shaft than normal and hitting the case and also getting stuck? On the plus side at least the gear can be replaced after the engine is back together.
First pic is mine, secon pic is a used one on eBay.
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22
« on: October 19, 2020, 05:35:22 PM »
so most bits on order now (ouch).
Without wanting to start too much of a debate what's the best / recommended sealant for the bottom end? I've seen other posts but not really a conclusion.
Honda Bond, 3 Bond , Yam Bond etc for crank case halves only. The lightest, lightest smear, so light, you can almost see through it.
Thanks, blimey Honda bond 4 is reassuringly expensive isn't it. Don't want it leaking though.
23
« on: October 19, 2020, 05:30:45 PM »
Note it was definitely the starter gear that was the problem, then crank was in and out several times and fully oiled and nothing else connected, it was just resting on the bottom shells but it still would not turn freely. On one of the occasions of taking the crank out the starter gear came loose a bit and then everything was instantly fine after that. Still seems very odd to me.
24
« on: October 19, 2020, 05:17:37 PM »
Put the alternator rotor on temporarily(i.e. bolt not tight) then see if it wobbles when crank is spun, i have seen the taper end bent
No wobble. Checked with fixed point on the case, not that accurate, but nothing obvious.
25
« on: October 19, 2020, 04:23:01 PM »
Having followed this post with interest I am none the wiser yet as to what the cause was - have I missed something?
No I'm not sure I am either. Like I say at the start of this page once the starter gear was removed everything freed up. Putting it back on and everything is still free, the crank spins nicely, even keeps turning on its own with a push, I could barely move it before. Putting the rods back on as Trigger suggested and it still all turns nicely. As I say my only concern was I'm not sure if that gear is mean to be able to move latterly on the shaft a bit which it does now. I have nothing to compare it to and nothing looks wrong. I'd have been much happier finding something broken but not sure what else can be done.
26
« on: October 19, 2020, 02:01:13 PM »
so most bits on order now (ouch).
Without wanting to start too much of a debate what's the best / recommended sealant for the bottom end? I've seen other posts but not really a conclusion.
27
« on: October 16, 2020, 08:13:28 PM »
Thanks really helpful advice. I’ve ordered those piston rings and will look for the right gasket set.
I’ll go for cam chain as well so will need that and if there’s upgraded o rings that help sounds like a good idea.
Not sure if I need primary chains yet, they are quite expensive..
28
« on: October 16, 2020, 04:29:56 PM »
29
« on: October 15, 2020, 03:52:33 PM »
Generator wheel and starter gear now removed. Can't see any problems with any of it. Only thing I'm not sure about is if the gear is meant to be able to move about a bit on the shaft.
So do just put it all back together now? Perhaps the starter gear was just seized up a bit from when there was no oil? It's all free now anyway.
I'll replace all the seals and gaskets, anything else worth replacing/checking whilst its apart? Nothing is in particularly bad condition, little bit of wear on some of the main bearings. I leak tested the valves and all seems good is it best to leave those alone?
30
« on: October 15, 2020, 08:15:13 AM »
There's a sectioned schematic of it in the original 750 manual (doesn't appear in last one) that may help, check Ash's dropbox stash for a look. If not there I can photo and post from mine.
Thanks, found the one in Ash's dropbox, much clearer.
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