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Messages - OLIVER1GEORGE
1
« on: June 16, 2009, 08:39:56 PM »
i would grab it while you can even if it takes years to do it up, as long as the engine is running may need some playing with mine was seized when i got it not through heat but just standing for so long all the rest comes with time its well worth it ....
2
« on: June 02, 2009, 09:29:47 PM »
thanks for all your help chaps just thought i would show what all the work was for im now ready to ride with the VJMC ye haaaaa
no doubt ill have problems along the way
4
« on: May 27, 2009, 09:35:04 PM »
hi everyone today i did my fork seals on a 1975 CB400f what a nightmare getting them out,
try this it worked for me ,if you own a dremel if you don't buy one they are brilliant attach a small metal cutting disc and cut into the seal be carefull not to cut right through as you will score the fork not good, when you have cut about 2/3rds the way through the metal ring of the seal put a small flat ended driver down the back of where you cut and hey presto the ring folds in on itself making it easier to just pull it out , hope this helps someone cheers
5
« on: May 27, 2009, 08:52:48 PM »
Thanks Dave and all the chaps for great advice .. did seals today and all went well and they dont leak anymore , allways a good sign mind you what a bloody nightmare getting old seals out , forks feel alot better with job done and new oil one happy biker
6
« on: May 25, 2009, 08:09:39 PM »
thanks Andy thats great
7
« on: May 25, 2009, 07:35:12 PM »
any local ride outs near me, im in teignmouth devon i would love to ride with some other old bikes not just poor old me on my 400/4 and my mates on modern sports bikes
8
« on: May 25, 2009, 07:26:36 PM »
so i cant leave the stantions bolted in the yokes and just remove the bottom legs of the forks it all has to come right out to replace seals im just making sure as i have never done a set . the chrome on stantions is really good its just they have been sat for so long the seals have perished .
9
« on: May 25, 2009, 12:20:42 PM »
hi can anyone give me advice on changing fork seals , do i have to remove the stantions from yokes or do i just need to seperate the legs from the stantions by taking wheel off and brake setup and by the looks the mudguard thanks any advice will help
10
« on: May 07, 2009, 08:25:28 PM »
is it a hard job to split the crank cases if i turn engine upside down ,drained of oil and take the bottom off will everything stay in place or will i end up with a hand full of cogs and bearings i think it is safer to do this as apposed to drilling then i can sort it out properly .
11
« on: May 03, 2009, 11:08:49 PM »
thanks Steve i think i have sussed it
12
« on: May 03, 2009, 09:34:49 PM »
HI mate i had the same problem with my carbs on my 400/4 it took 3 strips to get them right i never had them ultra sonic cleaned just did it my self took every jet out, idle jets main jets checked all the orings ,replaced them with some i bought from halfords but i will say the first few times of me putting carbs back on it would run only on two sometimes and back fire then i stripped again and found 2 jets that were blocked i soaked them over night and blew them through with compressed air and when i put them back on it seemed to do the trick it ran like a dream even better now there balanced
goodluck
13
« on: May 02, 2009, 10:13:19 PM »
anyone near teignmouth devon and also how do i put pictures on here it seems a bit of a nightmare or maybe im having a blonde moment cheers
14
« on: May 02, 2009, 09:50:52 PM »
thanks Steve i will give it a go so if i understand you right i will set t 14 to the static timing mark and starting from cylinder 1 if there is no play in valves rotate t14 again 360 degrees until there is little play then adjust this goes for all cylinders is that right sorry if I'm going on i just want to do it right so i can make sure its not the valves making a mild noise rather than the cam chain
15
« on: May 02, 2009, 08:39:19 PM »
I'm wanting to do my own valve clearances i have a Haynes book and it says they should all be 0.05 mm inlet and exhaust i start by lining up the T 1-4 with the static line mark and it tells you to start with cylinder one inlet and exhaust but which is cylinder one I'm presuming as you are sat on the bike its the far left one is this right when i line these marks up the valves have no movement whatsoever should they have play at all , just need some advice in how to do the job properly in what order
thanks chaps
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