Honda-SOHC
SOHC.co.uk Forums => CB500/550 => Topic started by: triplE675 on February 02, 2016, 08:56:59 PM
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The one thing that annoys on the K0 is the heavy throttle return spring. Is there a fix for this?
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The one thing that annoys on the K0 is the heavy throttle return spring. Is there a fix for this?
Never found this spring too heavy.
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Likewise, suspect you may have a non original spring??
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The one thing that annoys on the K0 is the heavy throttle return spring. Is there a fix for this?
Never found this spring too heavy.
Graham
The throttle on you K0 was much lighter than mine as I remember. I have fitted new cables
My K3 in comparison with the Pd carbs Has a return spring thats only a third of the length of the K0 spring.
It's not noticeably heavier than my 2 friends UK K1's
A lighter spring is what I need
Thanks
Andrew
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Only reason for heavy throttle is bad cables or bad routing. DO NOT lube the honda cables as they are nylon/rubber lined and the lube will make them swell up and be stiff
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For the 400 there are diagrams in the Dealer Setup Manual, not sure whether there is something similar for the 500/550 around.
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Ash's Dropbox was the obvious place to look.
No apparent Dealer Setup Manual but the CB500 / 550 F Shop Manual has some diagrams which should help, see pg 146 onwards.
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I have an original dealer set up manual which shows the exact locations of the cables, but this is of the cb550 K0 . if it helps I can scan and upload in the next days
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I do think it is worth saying that even with the correct set up the return spring is quite heavy compared to other bikes I've ridden but I think that is a good thing, it is very positive in it's action. There is an adjusting screw which puts a little pressure on the throttle.
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a stiff throttle on a 500 can be caused by trapping a cable in the L/H tank mount,
when refitting the tank,always make sure the cables are free,and move ok when you check the steering at lock to lock,
but I agree,the return spring is strong,so much so,I fitted a jubilee clip on the twistgrip to help hold it open
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To all the other good advice I'd add that the manuals usually spec some slack in the twistgrip, either if mm or perhaps degrees, this is to allow the difference of the two cable routes to be accommodated without binding one against the other.
If you turn the steering fully left or right then some small slack should remain at the grip, if not then the cables will start to cut into the nylon sleeves inside those two metal bends coming out of the twist grip.
I've seen someone take all of the slack out with the steering straight and then pull one of the cable ends off at full lock.
Any binding makes it much harder to turn especially when you've got the throttle closed on overrun and trying to bring the power back in smoothly.