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Topics - totty
1
« on: February 08, 2016, 11:48:41 AM »
EDIT first post relates to over charging, later posts relate to under charging after fitting combined reg/rec.
I'm waiting for a combined reg/rec to arrive. I've read that they're easily fried, so I'm wondering if there's any tests I should do before fitting it?
The current status is 16.7v across the battery at 3,500rpm, the rectifier has a terminal snapped off and the potting compound gouged out to remake the connection, the red/white wire had at some point been replaced bypassing all plugs and its insulation is burnt. I figured it was a good time to fit a modern combined unit. The burnt wire has been cut out and replaced. The battery a recent motobatt still seems OK, but I doubt it'll last as long as a one not subjected to this. All other connections on the panel and in the headlight look fine, no sign of overheating. The bike wont be used until fixed, I don't fancy letting the smoke out of the wires.
Thanks
Allan
3
« on: January 27, 2016, 12:54:25 PM »
Hi,
Does anyone know of an off the shelf black touch up paint that is a fair match to exel black?
I've just bought a tank that has a couple of chips in the paint, they're down to clean metal so I'd like to fill them.
Thanks
Allan
4
« on: January 24, 2016, 01:27:55 PM »
Hi,
Does anyone know where I can get a full set of clamps online before next weekend? David Silvers only has one in stock.
I've just fitted aftermarket rubbers and clamps only to find the rubbers are 5 to 8mm too long and the airbox won't fit. (Estimated as I haven't removed them yet.) Most original clamps are damaged, but original rubbers are actually ok - I was just replacing them while replacing the O rings. Can't use the aftermarket clamps as they're a smaller diameter.
I wish I'd compared the parts before fitting, carbs were a pig to get back on, refitting cables wasn't as easy as i remembered either.
Thanks
Allan
5
« on: January 04, 2016, 11:42:47 AM »
How are the tank badges attached on a 550K3, is there a trick to safely removing them?
Can scratches be polished out or is the gold colour just on the surface? Are replacements available anywhere?
Thanks
Allan
6
« on: September 24, 2014, 07:56:34 PM »
7
« on: May 10, 2014, 07:54:47 PM »
I've had other bikes misfire in the rain and fail to idle, but the symptoms were different today.
When the rain was heavy the bike ran as normal until I exceeded around 40 mph at which point there was some power loss and change of engine note, like one cylinder wasn't running. If I continued up to 60 it would then cut out completely and not restart until it had been left standing for a min. On restarting it would misfire at low revs for a while before running as normal.
In moderate rain the symptoms were more like typical wet electrics with poor running below 4k rpm, and very occasionally misfires above. Once the rain became light it ran as normal.
It was as if a quantity of water needed to be driven into somewhere to have an effect.
I thought I was going to need to call a breakdown service until I figured out how to ride around it and went through the towns and back roads on the way home.
It's fitted with a Boyer Micro Power kit (the one that includes coils), a foam air filter in the original airbox, but it's missing the airbox drain pipes and the parts below the airfilter - other than that it's standard. I've never ridden it in rain this heavy before.
Any suggestions?
Am I right to think it's electrical? There's lots of info online about waterproofing electrics, but what works for you?
8
« on: May 06, 2014, 08:25:47 AM »
Hi,
Could anyone tell me what the clips which hold the chrome trim to the seat are called?
They aren't shown on the parts diagrams at cmsnl or listed by Silvers. I got the bike out this morning to ride to work and found one end of the trim loose.
Thanks
Allan
9
« on: February 10, 2013, 11:36:11 AM »
I'm so pleased with this I had to share. Took my k3 off the road for a couple of weeks to do a few odd jobs, over 18 months later I've just finished it. Not intending to leave it that long I did no up front prep, a couple of months in I added fuel stabiliser, in November I filled carbs with redex. Yesterday with nothing more than a new battery and draining the carbs it started literally on the button - no cranking, just near instant firing on all cylinders and a smooth tickover.
10
« on: December 24, 2012, 05:01:52 PM »
3 months ago I started what I thought would be a very simple wheel swap, I've now reached the point where I'm out of patience. All that remains is to fit the oil seal part number 19 in the link below into the retainer part number 3 then refit it to the bike. http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb550k3-four-england_model14671/partslist/F11.html#resultsI eventually resorted to having a dealer transfer the retainer, when he refitted the seal he commented that he thought it was the wrong one as it was a nightmare to fit. I removed it as he didn't fit the collar part number 6 behind it, I then trashed it trying to refit, I've now just ruined the replacement I bought from wemoto. I'd expect to be able to push it in by hand, but there's no chance, even winding it in on the axle with old bearings as spacers just crushed it, the seal simply has too large an OD. Are there any miss sized seals or retainers floating about that anyone knows of? As the bearings are double sealed what's the thoughts on leaving out this seal? I'd rather not, but fitting it doesn't appear to be an option.
11
« on: December 17, 2012, 05:27:09 PM »
Hi,
I've got a post in the Desperately Seeking section for an exhaust. I've been offered a Marving but after hours of searching I can't find out if the centre stand can be retained. Does anyone know?
I know for many other pipes it's just a case of making a stop to keep the stand off the chain, but the Marvings routing looks close to where the stand should be on pictures I've found.
Cheers
Allan
12
« on: October 01, 2012, 09:12:46 PM »
Hi,
Does anyone have any tips for removing a sprocket retainer ring?
I'm aware that it's a reverse thread and I've drilled out the steaks, but I still can't shift it with an adjustable pin spanner and hammer. I might have to buy a big socket cut it down and get an impact driver on it.
I don't need the hub but I need to transfer the sprocket etc. to another wheel, although I'd rather not trash an ok hub.
Also any tips on cleaning up the threads? The wheel I'm switching to looks like the stakes weren't drilled and there is some thread damage.
Cheers
Allan
13
« on: January 24, 2012, 08:51:05 AM »
Hi,
I'm thinking of joining either the HOC or VJMC, would anyone recommend one over the other?
Insurance discounts would be nice to have, I basically get my current RSSOC membership for free due the discounts but I will not be renewing it as I'm selling my Scimitar. I'm unlikely to attend events but would like a magazine with good technical articles.
Thanks
Allan
14
« on: July 11, 2011, 01:28:09 PM »
I've just gutted an old 550 airfilter and replaced the element with some of this foam and I'm quite pleased with the results. For half the price of a new filter I got enough foam to do 4, fitting it was a very simple job with a glue gun and Stanley knife, and best of all it's made a massive mid rpm improvement - although it obviously wouldn't do that for a well jetted bike, mine had a bad flat spot. I can't comment on how well it lasts or filters but it looks allot better quality than other foam filters I've used in the past. Here's a link to their ebay shop http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Ramair-Filters-0844-858-4658
15
« on: July 05, 2011, 01:03:09 PM »
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