Honda-SOHC

Quote from: Macabethiele on September 10, 2020, 11:42:20 PM

Zinc plating kit that sound cool - I'll have to research it do you have a sellers link ?

Sorry, just seen post - same company as already suggested - https://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=231
I also use an aquarium heaters and themometer to sort correct temp - to be honest, its only in the winter I bother with them as in the summer, its 'near enough'

Thanks for that Phil - as I keep tropical fish in my outside fishhouse/garage office annex the temperature will not be an issue.
Cheers Ted

Thanks for the two tips Greg & Jeremy.

Cheers Ted

Don't you mean you set them lower or do you mean if you pushed the floats up then it closed the valve ?

The lower the float height in the bowl the greater the leverage between the Tab and the float needle so it shuts off earlier?

When setting my float heights with the Carbs upside down the float Tab would be just  touching the sprung part of the needle valve without depressing it. I then measured the gap between the Carb body and the bottom of the float that on mine were flat - as per NJ's pictures in her float height setting guide.

Looking at your upside down picture the spring clips look the wrong way up to me ? I'm an amature so listen to NJ.

As long as the bottom clip is in the right position this prevents the float from dropping too far down and jamming the valves open- on my Carbs the spring clips span across the width of the bowl stopping the float from dropping too far down Yours should do the same thing if you have them fitted correctly for your carb.  When I had my bottom clips in position with no bowl fitted they stopped the floats from descending too far and allowing the needle valves to drop down too far and jam open.

As regards the carbs fully opening:-
As long as you have the little spring & plunger thing in the right position you should have no trouble with them opening fully. I see no reason why you should ever need to replace the levers as shown in your link unless something is missing. There is what I would describe as a fixed half hip bit that's black in colour and fixed - you then have the small plunger with the wide end facing the fixed cup, then the spring then the lock screw & nut etc. When you fit the throttle link ball into the slot the two halves form a perfect support either side of the ball bit! I cant imagine you ever having enough wear to justify replacement of the link.

I'm a bit at 6's & 7's today as I've had some pretty heavy news on my health front that's making me re-think my strategy for the build timetable. What started as a bit of blood in my Pee last week has turned nasty upstream in my kidneys - the Consultant was talking today about me having my right kidney removed. I guess that's something they don't joke about.

I'm thinking now to just get the engine running as planned if possible by the end of this month. Then I might have to abandon the planned full strip down & go instead for an Oily Rag jobbie so I can ride it when the cam chain & clutch have been sorted.

For now I've ditched the Electrolysis Petrol Tank Clean and gone and tipped 5 Litres of Evaporust in the petrol tank today. That can work its magic whilst I have CT Scans etc etc. Hey I'm 72 I know my three score years and ten are behind me but this was a bit of a sucker punch. Sorry to burden folk here about it but a problem shared and all that.

I will keep on dipping in and out of the  Forum to keep up to speed with everyones bike build progress. Cheers for now  ....Ted

I have no idea how to do it - what about just buying a new one if the chrome has gone bad?

On most of my cars I've used a Lockheed Easybleed (LE) using air from a spare wheel to power it. I've always got a decent pedal by this method. I also like the look of the one Ed China uses that sucks fluid out of the bleed nipple.

Later design master cylinders often can't work with LE. I might source a suction type for future use.