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Messages - AshimotoK0
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4981
« on: July 25, 2015, 03:52:57 PM »
Has anyone tried to call them? Do they speak English?
I have held Skype callx to Japan but always with an entrepreneur.
I am speaking on the Skype to my new buddy in Japan tomorrow morning and he's a brit but his wife is Japanese so I will get them on the case !
4982
« on: July 25, 2015, 12:39:23 PM »
Anyone know if these are any good. I already have a NOS HONDA one for my 750K0 but the roller is the came as the 250/350k and that assembly for the twins costs nearly 60 quid plus post from Silvers
Also want to order directly for delivery in Japan of some of Cruzinimages stuff but they don't seem to reply to my emails. Anyone got an email address that they respond on?
Ash
4983
« on: July 25, 2015, 10:26:03 AM »
Brilliant rebuild thread Roy and great that you are sharing restoration tips/restoration services/costs with us.
Ash
4984
« on: July 25, 2015, 10:20:40 AM »
Suspect its an inverter type which are a lot more complicated than the mains transformer/EHT rectifier/capacitor power supply versions.
Which make/model is it? Do you have a decent multimeter and I will try to help ? Be careful of the high voltage capacitor you can get a a nasty belt off it if it's not discharged properly.
Ash
4985
« on: July 25, 2015, 08:20:22 AM »
I suppose my main point on this particular bike is that it was probably commisioned to be rebuilt by John Wyatt for Classic Bike for a prize in a competition. I would image that if there was any issues with the bike cutting out in the rain (due to water ingress into the plug caps or recessed ignition) or any safety related issues due to rechromed wheels or sharp double cut fender then this would have been deemed as irresponsible by the comissioners of the rebuild to ignore design feature changes by the manufacturer, which were introduced to prevent unreliabilty / improve safety. I have been told stories of rechromed rims that were so weak in the spoke nipple area that the nipped pulled through the hole or there had been so much corrosion blasted away on the inside where water had gathered due to long term storage that, after rechroming, it was practically impossible to safely balance the wheel.
You are dead right about some of the 'sandcastonly' people Pete ...e.g. to replace 'No. 28' carb tops for a cost of well over grand, that were a recall item by Honda due to serious safety issue, is absolutely ludicrous IMHO.
My own personal take on UK bikes is that you can trace their history via PO's /relatives and they were the actual examples that buzzed around our roads back in their heyday. It's just my usual 'anoraky' 'obsessive' take on things though and it's all b*llocks really because they were all made in Japan and most UK bikes rusted so badly that over 50% of the rebuild parts are probably either new/NOS or sourced from the US.
My only US import bike is my CB350K1 (never sold in the UK), which was initially untitled but on picking it up the import company found they had the title document. Given the title docs & modern day tools like Google Earth/maps I was able to get an image of the house in Idaho where the original owner lived.
4986
« on: July 24, 2015, 01:50:12 AM »
The bike was a prize 18 years ago and was probably built to a budget set by CB magazine by John Wyatt, who tends to be pricey for work he does IMHO. When it was restored lots of the repro parts from Yamiya were probably not available so he used superseded Genuine Honda parts. Being a prize, it would have to built to the safest standards so, with that in mind, best to use new rims,even though 'scripted' rather than re-chromed ones, which can be dodgy, as we all know. Used Ducktail seats in decent condition were very rare, even back then because the original foams collapsed, being made from multiple blocks of red foam, so given that fact, the seat is fairly nice for a pre-Yamiya repro. The start price on eBay from the dealer was £7k, which was very reasonable for that bike. I think we are all being a little picky and obsessive about it but, given that Frank is selling it for probably at least double what he paid, then it's obviously justifiable. Suppose he fitted the non-metal plug caps and non-recessed ignition because they were items known to suffer from water ingress which, again could have been a safety related issue on a bike intended to be ridden by the winner not a museum piece. I think there is only myself and Mick (kettle738) silly enough to re-fit those plug caps....one of these days I am going to set up a test rig to determine why they were so bad and if they can be improved !  IMHO I still think it's nice genuine UK bike, restored to a high standard and even with the non-correct items , give me that over the multitude of US bikes we now have over here any day. I went to DK a couple of weeks ago and the classic sales guy there told me they have so many imported from the US Hondas available to them, that the they are only gradually releasing them to sell on eBay, so as not to flood the market. Ash
4987
« on: July 23, 2015, 02:00:08 AM »
 for the princely sum of 20k i bet even dick emery is laughing
i cant see ash affording that trigg
now that he is bogged down with his 250 lol
Not Dick Emery's bike Steff his was BYU762H but I suspect they both came from Tippets of Surbiton. Yea the 250's are a money pit too but love the 68/69K0 version
4988
« on: July 22, 2015, 09:33:20 PM »
Well You do get em... .. from the Land of the Rising Yen ... pricey though! http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d169245737You just need a nice 75 year old lady to bring em back in her luggage .. like a certain member on here did with a tank, front & Rear mudguards, clocks,tail-lamp and seat etc. !!  With a little note in her handbag saying 'the parts in the suitcase are scrap parts for a motorcycle I am restoring in the UK'. you even get passenger assistance and all that, to carry em out of the airport if you are canny! Ash [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
4989
« on: July 21, 2015, 07:13:04 PM »
Wow what a shock . Lost for words really. Never knew he was seriously ill
RIP mate.
Ash
4990
« on: July 17, 2015, 12:32:49 PM »
Sold for £4201. And there's another one on eBay for £9250; a fully restored low mileage very early UK model.
The restored one looks like it is from CB Classic Motorcycles
Looks like our own lovely nurse is selling it to me ....
4991
« on: July 17, 2015, 08:17:25 AM »
4992
« on: July 14, 2015, 08:00:25 AM »
Re: 'bikepusher' ..... Well me included peed him off a bit and TBH it was because I can't bear to see really nice bikes broken for parts, which is a bit hypocritical of me really because deep down I know I have bought really nice parts off nice bikes which should never have been broken up.
He starts stuff pretty low and daft bu**ers pay silly money for tiny bits and he rubs his hands together with glee but some stuff looks OK and goes for a reasonable price sometimes, like engines and wheels etc that he sells and the description is pretty honest.
I too need to track down Cruzinimage, as I want to buy from them directly and have them shipped within Japan.
Ash
4993
« on: July 13, 2015, 07:24:33 AM »
I just measured one that's been stripped of its original coating and it measures 2.3 mm thick
4994
« on: July 13, 2015, 06:06:07 AM »
Hi del,
I'm out of my comfort zone here; but as a confirmed tinkerer would be up for the below.... think if you grab a beer & go through it slowly it may turn up what you're after.
Until, of course, Ash simply tells you the 'number'...
Sorry can't be of more help,
Simon
http://www.ngineering.com/led_calculators.htm
The load resistor for a LED is influenced by the forward volt drop (FVD)of the LED and this varies for the different colours.For the first RED LEDs this was 1.8 volts but its about 3.5 volts for a WHITE one. So what you do is subtract the FVD from the supply voltage and then use that voltage figure in OHMS Law to calculate the required series resistance. So for a WHITE LED and 12 v supply and say a 50 milliamp desired current (0.050 A) you get 12 - 3.5 v = 8.5v So, applying Ohms law R=V/I ... the resistor value comes out as 8.5/0.05 =170 Ohms. However,it's not as simple as this,because with with modern LED 'arrays' they have multiple LED's embedded into the same device and connected in a series and parallel arrangement to optimize minimum power drop in the series resistor and also some even have integrated 'constant current' circuitry in addition to the LEDs to give a constant brightness irrespective of any supply voltage fluctuations (if you think about it a 12 volt bike battery can reach 14v) Best thing may be to just get an wirewound 'pot' (variable resistor) of say 100 Ohms and connect this in series with the LED and adjust it until you get the desired brightness then measure its value with a DVM and replace it with a fixed resistor. If you sent me a LED bulb I could easily do this for you as I have all of the gear to do it quickly. Sorry about the long winded answer .. my kids/family have no interest whatsoever in anything like this so I have to pass the knowledge onto someone 
4995
« on: July 11, 2015, 11:55:33 PM »
Here Ya Go.. Six quid each almost from Silvers ... what a rip off as they look like stamped out 'D' shaped washers on my bike, not a machined component or are mine a bodged attempt by a PO?
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