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Messages - AshimotoK0
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4997
« on: July 11, 2015, 11:57:36 AM »
Fault finding always difficult at a distance. I have a main customer in Lithuania who uses my PC controlled test rigs and it's a nightmare fault finding. What you could probably sort out in 5 minutes if you were on site can sometimes take a week to get to the bottom of.
Ash
4998
« on: July 11, 2015, 09:53:29 AM »
You may have masked the underlying problem but if it works for you then that's great. An electronic unit will probably have its own voltage regulator inside, which will be insensitive to any battery voltage/charging excessive fluctuations and the flash 'timing' will be governed by electronics rather than the standard electromechanical style flasher, which uses a capacitor discharge circuit into a relay.There is also the 'Signal-stat' version mainly fitted to USA bikes that uses a bi-metallic strip like the old Lucas car ones,which my have been less sensitive.
Ash
5000
« on: July 10, 2015, 08:25:56 AM »
Thanks for that Roy. Prices sound good and I don't mind cash payment. Usually it's only my wife who refers to me as Ashley...usually when I've done something wrong  Cheers ... Ash
5001
« on: July 08, 2015, 09:30:56 PM »
It doesn't use a zener diode it uses a solid state voltage regulator but yes you can use one. This regulator adjusts the current in the field coil and therefore regulates the output of the three phase stator to match the battery charge condition. The later Honda bikes use an integrated rectifier and regulator, the regulator parts being a solid-state equivalent of the electromechanical separate OEM item. Regulator-rectifiers are cheap on eBay, just check its been tested if its a used one.
Ash
5002
« on: July 08, 2015, 08:06:03 AM »
Yeah mine looked like that Al and they were also done by RS but in the early 80s when chroming was so much better than it is today.
However due to the rough casting it leaves small holes in the chrome and that's where the water etc gets in, pretty soon it's not looking quite as pretty.
Agree .. I got a NOS pair for one of my 250's and you can see, after shelf-only storage for 30 odd years, that there's slight rust build up in the 'valleys' where the throwing power of the plating process is poorer and also where it's hard to reach with a polisher/abrader. I think we have to be fair to Mark at RS here, that this is a very difficult item to plate and most (if not all ) chromers will struggle with this one, as no doubt Honda did back in the day, and they were starting with a freshly prepared casting. BTW someone I work with says his dad is a chromer in Hull and that new EU regulation is coming in, which almost outlaws even the 'safer' conventional tri-valent chrome plating (unless you spend oodles on new fancy plant). David Silver also told us that about 18 months ago. Perhaps, the only way round it is to stockpile the chemicals before the laws come in. Ash
5003
« on: July 07, 2015, 04:49:03 PM »
77 year old owner (seller)  !! Good on him!
5004
« on: July 07, 2015, 03:25:14 PM »
Watch out for dodgy tranwation Right hand mouse click and select 'translate-to-English' http://www.win-pmc.com/replace_cb400four/David at Saisei can get these parts ... he's their agent here.
5005
« on: July 07, 2015, 03:06:50 PM »
What finish do you have on final prep Keith? I have two CB250 tanks that I need to have painted.I have removed most of the paint with (proper) paint stripper but I was considering dry bead blasting them as final prep with 50/100 Vixosheen glass beads. Will this finish be fine enough for candy (or metallic) paint? http://www.vaporblastingequipment.com/abrasivesAsh
5006
« on: July 07, 2015, 09:02:13 AM »
That's a real sh*tty circuit diagram I put on here Graham and can't quite work out the colours but looks like 3 yellows out of the alternator so 3-phase but I can't see a field coil but could be a PM rotor (there is a 4th coil but it looks like the power generator for the CDI). Really out of touch with models after 1977, sorry  . If it is PM (permanent magnet) and 3-phase, why not try temporarily grafting in a 400/4, CB500/550 or 750 rectifier and link directly to the battery, making sure the battery is pretty flat before testing it. The battery will act as it's own regulator until it becomes charged. also have you tried another battery ... just in case ! Cheers ... Ash
5007
« on: July 06, 2015, 05:09:57 PM »
Is this the model Graham?. If so I would suspect the regulator/rectifier possibly, as mentioned by others.
Ash
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5009
« on: July 06, 2015, 01:45:28 PM »
Don't know that bike Graham but from what I can see on a brief look on the Net. I gather that it's a two wire flasher on that model. What's the method of regulation on that bike to prevent overcharging the battery at high revs.? The early twins had a Hitachi unit which incorporated a voltage detector and thyristor 'crowbar' to prevent overcharging (mounted under the battery box) ... bit like the action of zener diode on old 60's Triumphs but a lot more precise. There must be some method of prevention of battery overcharge on that bike and if it's malfunctioning and the flasher has any kind of electronics in it, then the overcurrent charging pulses could cause an erratic flash rate.
This is all supposition as I don't know that model. Do you have a circuit diagram? Is it a CD250U. If it was a CD250 'Dream' from '68, I'd be hightailing it down the M1, flashing the cash at you to part with it
Ash
If it did turn out to be a three wire, separate regulator, the third (ground) wire would need a good connection to earth, in order to perform regulation properly. Plus if it was also a 3-wire flasher, that too would need a decent earth to it's 3rd GREEN wire.
5010
« on: July 06, 2015, 01:25:49 PM »
Don't know that bike Graham but from what I can see on a brief look on the Net. I gather that it's a two wire flasher on that model. What's the method of regulation on that bike to prevent overcharging the battery at high revs.? The early twins had a Hitachi unit which incorporated a voltage detector and thyristor 'crowbar' to prevent overcharging (mounted under the battery box) ... bit like the action of zener diode on old 60's Triumphs but a lot more precise. There must be some method of prevention of battery overcharge on that bike and if it's malfunctioning and the flasher has any kind of electronics in it, then the overcurrent charging pulses could cause an erratic flash rate. This is all supposition as I don't know that model. Do you have a circuit diagram? Is it a CD250U. If it was a CD250 'Dream' from '68, I'd be hightailing it down the M1, flashing the cash at you to part with it Ash
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