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Messages - exvalvesetdabbler
1
« on: April 29, 2019, 06:27:17 PM »
I need to find a solution for this soon. Sounds like a bag of spanners with the dip stick out I remember there being some free play there when I had it apart some years ago. The spare that I had of another bike was even worse so put the original back.
Has anyone removed and replaced the rivets?
Best regards Dave
2
« on: November 16, 2015, 10:53:43 AM »
On a 400/4 the ignition key should open it. Doesn't matter on the key number. A luncheon meat tin key may also work. The stearing lock key may not as it is a bit thicker and only single sided.
Try soaking it in copious amounts of plus-gas or WD40 and press down on the cap a few times to relieve the tension on the mechanism as you turn the key. It may be that the latch has sezed on it's pivot.
Dave..
3
« on: November 13, 2015, 04:26:28 PM »
I only get nervous when it comes to giving the kickstart a few prodds.
I'm probably telling you 'how to suck eggs' but for the benefit of someone else reading this thread later, use some assembly lube on the bearing shells and mating surfaces, bearings, camshaft , cam followers before tightening up.
If youre a skinflint like me , some thick oil, molyslip or STP oil treatment is better than nothing.
Dave..
4
« on: November 13, 2015, 10:16:16 AM »
Just the standard blue stuff. Also be carefull of putting too much on where the thread is going into a blind hole. In the worst case you can get hydraulic lock and crack the casing.
One thing to consider though, if Honda's spec was for tightening up the fasteners dry then lubricating them with locktite or copper grease can result in over tightening.
For me, I would avoid using it unless absolutely necessary or instructions say otherwise.
Dave..
5
« on: November 06, 2015, 09:59:51 AM »
On the 400F it is possible to split the engine upside down with the top end in place. I replaced the camchain and primary chain that way some years ago. You might need to drop the cam sprocket off the camshaft though if you want the crankshaft out. However, if you only need the clearance to slip on a replacement seal than I would try pushing the cam chain tensioner plunger all the way back and locking it.
I made a similar slip up and got one of the blanking plugs/seal on the end of the gear shaft in wrong which blew out and dumped oil everywhere. There's a piece on the seal that locates in a recess on the crank case. It's all too easy for it to spin round when you're playing with the gearshafts.
Best Regards
Dave
6
« on: October 22, 2015, 05:35:50 PM »
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Sprocket side 29.6mm
Brake Side 33.7mm
Both 30 mm diameter with through hole to clear 17mm axle
Regards
Dave
7
« on: October 22, 2015, 11:42:30 AM »
Ok I will have a look when I'm home at the weekend.
The new spacers, I made them myself using a small model making lathe.
Regards
Dave
8
« on: October 21, 2015, 11:46:51 AM »
The one from the rear sprocket side will have a shiny band where the rubber seal has been rubbing on it. The other side shouldn't have.
If you still need confirmation of collar lengths, I can have a rummage in junk boxes over the weekend, should still have the originals somewhere as I never throw anything away. My current ones were machined from a lump of 316 stainless.
Also if I remember right one, of the rear bushes has a center groove, probably as a marker so the factory knew which one was which.
Regards
Dave
9
« on: October 14, 2015, 11:49:07 AM »
Be cautious of trying to fit H rated tyres the beading is much stiffer and a right pain to get on without scuffing the chrome on the rims. S rating should be fine for a CB400F
I usually cut some strips from an old 4 pint milk container to use as a packer between the tyre lever and the rim to minimise and marks.
History has tought me that the donkeys at tyre outlets are less skilled at fitting tyres to spoked rims than they were in the past.
If youre fitting them yourself, lean them up against a radiator for a few hours first.
10
« on: October 12, 2015, 11:06:27 AM »
When I worked for Panasonic, EHT belts were fairly common. Prior to the engineer's Christmas meal I got 2 LOPTs, sprayed one gold and one silver. I mounted them on little mahogany plinths and got some plaques engraved with; Repairmans Electric Shock of the Year. We presented them to the winner and runner up of what we judged to be the best EHT belt. (mere 240V belts don't count)
That was back in 1898, I wonder if the trophies still survive.
The most stupid one that I received was when evaluating the healty of the EHT on a Bush dual standard where you would draw an arc from the top of the line output valve with a screw driver, if you could get 1/4 inch it was good enough. On this particular day I picked up the wrong screwdriver that has the neon light and resistor in for testing 240V . That made me jump. Regarding 240V, it wasn't uncommon to find the chassis live , particularly where a 2 pin mains plug was involved. Hence the neon scredriver in the toolbox. Any how back to the original topic, thans for all of the suggestions, I have found some old rattle cans with red in them - time to try some mixing to see if I can darken a bit in a thimble. Dave.
11
« on: October 09, 2015, 03:02:57 PM »
After mainly working on BW sets, those early color TV's scared the hell out of me with all of the warning messages on the covers and the additional EHT voltage.
Removing the first anode connector on the CRT for replacement always resulted in sweaty hands gripping the discharge probe.
All the Best
Dave
12
« on: October 08, 2015, 01:06:30 PM »
Thanks for the offer, I'll have a trawl round the paint suppliers locally and see what turns up.
If you have the recipie for the red paint that may be a start.
PS I thought I was a hoarder, there's three old tanks and a set of front forks in my loft somewhere together with BW TV with valves in it.
Dave
13
« on: October 07, 2015, 04:04:01 PM »
Dunlop still do one, the K82, with a similar tread pattern to the old TT100
I got them from Vintage Tyre Supplies Ltd a couple of years ago. It was the best price at the time when you considered a couple of rim tapes and genuine Michelin inner tubes.
If you fit them yourself pay attention to the rotation for front and rear fitment.
Dave.
14
« on: October 07, 2015, 03:54:35 PM »
Its the candy antares red.
The chip is so small, any red that's close enough should do, If I can't find anything then I have some clear coat from a car touch up pen.
Thanks
Dave
15
« on: October 07, 2015, 11:28:28 AM »
The horseshoe tensioner that is prone to sticking is usually due to a very slack cam chain that has been rubbing on the pivot and peened over some of the metal. If it's not too bad you should be able to dress the damage with a small triangular file to free off the pivot. The spring if original may also be getting a bit tired by now.
You can test if it is free by removing the bolt that covers the end of the tunnel where the plunger goes and inserting a piece of 3mm rod. Turn the engine backwards and you should feel it move out a little.
This is how I tension the cam chain by pressing down on the end of the plunger to give the spring a helping hand during adjustment with the engine running. Pressing down onto a 3 mm rod with your thumb will hurt long before you over tighten the cam chain!
Oh - and don't forget to put some copper grease on the new bolts.
Regards
Dave
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