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Messages - exvalvesetdabbler
16
« on: October 07, 2015, 11:14:21 AM »
Any one know if there are any commercial touch up kits that are a close match to the CB400 F2 red. Managed to pick up a small stone chip about 1.5mm diameter on the tank last weekend.
This has exposed bare metal so needs something on it very soon.
This tank has OEM paint so are there any compatability issues with off the shelf primers if I were to use U POL Acid #8 as I happen to have some lying around.
thanks
Dave.
17
« on: September 11, 2015, 11:32:28 AM »
Here's what we use in the labs where alkaline cleaners would attack some metals. http://www.decon.co.uk/english/neutracon.aspFor cleaning carbs particularly where there is varnish I have found the methylated spirit found in hardware stores will help break it down. Place the carb in a beaker and fill it with meths. Float or stand this in the ultrasonic bath filled with warm water. ****Do it outside***!!!! It may take a few sessions but eventually the varnish will turn to a powdery depost that can easily be brushed off or dislodged by repeated sessions in the bath. Don't use washing up liquid on monkey metal because it has salt in it and this can get into the pores and lead to white deposits further down the line unless you leach it all out. DJW
18
« on: September 04, 2015, 10:26:27 AM »
I got mine out by clamping the leg upside down in a B+D workmate bench and compressing it as much as I could against the floor with two people sitting on the bench, then whacked it with a lump hammer and impact driver. Put a bit of wood underneath to save scuffing the chromed nut.
Dave.
19
« on: August 15, 2015, 12:28:51 PM »
For a 400/4 £86 fully comp with agreed value of £2400 and UK and European breakdown cover. Downside, not covered to to ride anyone else's bike. There is a mileage limit but I'm not expecting to hit that.
Got this from Peter James Insurance. I used to be loyal to Carole Nash but they wanted to penalize me by £15 because some idiot ran into the back of my company car at a roundabout a couple of years ago. I think that there may be further discounts for VJMC members.
Dave
20
« on: August 13, 2015, 03:12:11 PM »
Sorry missed that bit about the main fuse.
As a previous poster mentioned, anywhere a wire can get pinched or chafed is the first place to look.
Dave.
21
« on: August 13, 2015, 03:07:53 PM »
Another local source of fuel stabiliser may be anywhere people keep leasure boats, marinas, chandelrys etc , or garden machinery suppliers. Just make sure you get one specifically for ethanol blended fuels. Some of the older fuel stabilisers already have ethanol in and can make corrosion problems worse. Stabil is another brand to look out for and seems popular with the boaty types. http://www.goldeagle.com/product/marine-sta-bil-ethanol-fuel-treatment-stabilizer. Most of the better brands come from the US because they have had to put up with ethanol in thier fuel longer than we have here. Dave
22
« on: August 13, 2015, 11:17:56 AM »
I have used fuel preservative for storage over a good few years now and more recently, regular use of one that provides protection against corrosion due to the effects of ethanol in the fuel. Currently using Miller's EPS so only time will tell if this if worthwhile. I just keep about 10ml in a small minature glass bottle in my pocket and dose the tank when topping up. http://www.millersoils.co.uk/pdf/automotive/Ethanol%20in%20Fuel.pdfI have also noticed that fuel mixture is a bit leaner on modern fuel , particularly since replacing emulsion tubes and main jets with new OEM parts from DS. Previously the corrosion(and probably 30 years of wear) had enlarged the top of the emulsion tube causing over rich running. My pilot air screws are currently about 1 to 1 1/4 turns out to give smooth transition when rolling on the throttle at low rpm. Modern fuel does seem to go bad quite quickly, even if a preservative has been used some of the 'goodness' seems to be lost over storage. After winter storage, filling the carbs and then draining again is necessary to get some good fuel in them , makes starting much easier. We certainly never had these kind of problems with 2 star fuel when I were a lad. Dave
23
« on: August 13, 2015, 10:37:23 AM »
Also check the bunch in the headlight shell for anything touching the rim or grounded parts, this is where I had an issue in the past.
If you know which fuse is blowing it should help narrow things down a bit.
Dave
24
« on: August 13, 2015, 10:24:44 AM »
I have been on the road with this bike most of the time except for a few years between 1984 and 1987, 2002 and 2008 when I was working at sea for most of the time and by nature of the job I was always away during good weather and home when the weather was bad.
I am finding now that about 40 miles is about my limit before various body parts start going to sleep or go numb.
Dave.
25
« on: July 27, 2015, 05:14:05 PM »
So much for having a week off work this week to enjoy it - should have got a boat
Dave
26
« on: July 27, 2015, 12:20:42 PM »
[ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Here's a picture of my bike, part restored between 87-91 when spares were still cheap. New tank and seat came a little later when the old seat chafed a hole in the tank.
all the Best
Dave
27
« on: July 27, 2015, 12:05:49 PM »
Thanks guys for confirming this.
I though as much, guess it will have to go once I have stripped it over the winter. My son has got the two wheel bug and I'm under pressure to clear some space in the garage.
Dave
28
« on: July 24, 2015, 11:54:36 PM »
I have a 400/4 on a Q plate that is taking up space and need to decide whether to do something with it or get rid. The bike may have been raced at sometime in it's life or the PO just had a wire locking fetish. I bought it pre 1989 for spares. and have had a few bits of it to keep my other bike going over the years.
Is this Q plate stuck on there forever or is there a way to get an age related plate. Still have the V5 from 1991 when I moved house and changed the address.
Dave.
29
« on: June 22, 2015, 01:29:49 PM »
Has any one else noticed corrosion inside carbs. After stripping a set down last week all of the brass pieces were rather dull and one looked a bit like copper after being in etching solution. This was never a problem with the old 2 star fuel we had many years ago, even after standing idle for a year or more we never saw these kind of problems.
Since rebuilding the carbs a few years ago I have always put fuel stabiliser in during September ready for the winter lay up. From reading around it seems that older fuel stabilisers are no good where the fuel contains ethanol because of the moisture that can absorb into it and subsequently seperate out in the worst cases. There are modern fuel stabilisers specifically for fuels blended with ethanol, so
- does any one else use these products?
- has anyone looked inside a set of carbs recently that they know were clean and shiny a couple of years ago?
Dave
30
« on: June 22, 2015, 01:16:22 PM »
I bought some of the rubbers that connect the air box to the carbs from DS because I'm getting too old and impatient to wrestle the existing ones back onto the center two carbs. Problem most likely caused by someone getting them half on and screwing the clamps up tight many years ago. Wasn't me - honest. Anyhow, the ones from DS are made of a lot thinner material and the OEM band clamps do not hold, even with the clamps tightened up they could spin round easy. I ended up cutting packing strips out of an old rim tape and glueing it to the inside of the clamp.
They went on first time in a couple of minutes rather than the usual 30 minutes huffing ,puffing, skinned knuckles and associated bad language though.
Dave.
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