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Messages - exvalvesetdabbler
31
« on: June 21, 2015, 01:02:52 PM »
The shop manual p77 gives 4mm new and 3.0mm service limit measured in the center for the tensioner
Dave.
32
« on: June 20, 2015, 11:09:53 PM »
I had similar problems after replacing all of the brass bits with OEM items. I am running with about 1 1/4 turns on the pilot air screw. The problem has been more noticeable now they are watering down the fuel with ethanol. Aside from the fuel quality issues these bikes need to run a little rich around idle because there is no kick down or throttle pump. When you open the throttle, sometimes too quickly the vacuum drops away a little and less fuel is drawn up through the metering system so the bike tends to stumble. Up to about 1/8 throttle this is the pilot circuit.
With my bike, running the idle mixture at 1 1/2 to 2 turns I can feel it holding back if I try to maintain constant speed
at about 2000 rpm in a low gear. Try giving it 1/4 to half choke and see if it gets better.
Dave
33
« on: June 24, 2012, 10:54:52 PM »
Fuel starvation or gross over fuelling. Does it smoke or whiff of petrol from the exhaust
At that rpm/throttle position the pilot jet would have little influence since it runs ok ? at smaller throttle openings.
Check the simple things first
filter gauze on fuel tap blocked
Tank breather blocked
choke flaps not fully open can also cause problems
float needles sticking/clogged up not just the valves but the float movement on its pivot pin
induction air leak around some rubber bit
Next thing would be float heights, main jet needle circlip position and main jet size
34
« on: June 18, 2011, 12:52:09 AM »
The only way that I got mine out was to apply local heat with a small pencil size gas soldering iron using the hot air attachment because the gum/varnish was holding them tight. Once you get them hot enough to soften the gum, push them out with a small allen key or similar. Trying to soak them in any solvent just expands then gum and makes them even tighter.
I found that soaking each carb in methanol for a couple of days would break up the gum enough to get most of it off with a tooth brush followed by a few hours in an ultrasonic bath. Don't waste your money on carb cleaner aerosols, it just evaporates to quick to do any good.
Also see one of my threads from last year about corrosion of emulsion tubes caused by the gum.
DJW
35
« on: June 03, 2011, 11:15:49 PM »
If it won't idle when warm I would suspect the pilot mixture is wrong,
Do you have the standard air box and filter?
The pilot jets are quite small and it doesn't take much to block them. However if the exhaust smells of petrol then there may be other reasons such as float heights or worn needles.
36
« on: June 02, 2011, 12:37:04 AM »
To lock the drive train I usually stuff the end of my leather trouser belt in the teeth of the gear on the outside of the clutch basket.
37
« on: June 02, 2011, 12:26:10 AM »
There are two likely causes of noisey cam chains.
1. 30 year old adjuster spring getting tired or the pushrod tube full of cr*p
2. Previous loose chain rubbing on adjuster pivot.
1). A workaround for this is to help the spring on its way a little while carrying out the adjustment. Next to the adjuster bolt and locking nut there is another nut with a flat washer, this blanks of the end of the adjuster push rod tube. You can insert a short metal rod about 3-4 mm dia and push on the push rod while slackening off the adjuster locking bolt. Only use hand/thumb pressure and be careful of the hot exhausts. If the adjuster mechanism is free, you should hear the cam chain quieten down. If it doesn't quieten down or you can't feel any movement of the pushrod then its either stuck in its tube or the piviot has seized. With the engine running and the locking bolt loose, you should be able to feel slight movement/vibration on the push rod as the chain pushes against the tensioner.
2.) Sometimes if the chain has been left too loose for too long it rubs on the adjuster pivot and peens over some of the metal making the pivot very tight. This is the u shaped bit at the bottom that the push rod pushes on and the tensioner blade sits on the other side. If you have the sump off have a look at the pivot with a dentists mirror.
If the tension is about right you should be able to hear a slight whine as you rev it when the chain is thrown against the tensioner blade.
The cam chain on these are well engineered ( I read somewhere that the Z900 used the same type/size of chain) so it should be more than up to the job. shame about the adjuster.
Regards
Dave
38
« on: April 27, 2011, 07:29:40 PM »
Went for an MOT earlier this week and had an advisory over the rubber degradation/cracking between the blocks of tread on the outer edge of the back tyre. This tyre has been on for about 10yrs.
So makes what are you guys using on the back in standard size? Any known good deals?
I currently have a K82 and likely to do the same again in the absence of any other suggestions.
I have used H rated tyres in the past when I was young enough to benefit from them and they are were harder to fit without marking the rims.
Regards
DJW
39
« on: April 27, 2011, 07:18:55 PM »
You may have one wire spare, just tidy it away if the relay is two terminal.
40
« on: April 27, 2011, 07:11:52 PM »
Yes, I did it when I replaced the primary chain and the first gear with the bronze bush that seems to wear. I think I had to lock the cam chain tensioner open and remove the cam chain sprocket at the top first. You can then undo the big end caps and leave the pistons and rods in place.
If I've missed something - it was over 10 years ago.
DJW
41
« on: April 27, 2011, 07:06:12 PM »
M10 with 1.25 pitch and a flanged head
42
« on: October 14, 2010, 08:15:09 PM »
Warm the hub up with a hot air gun. One way is to use a metal rod about 2mm smaller in diameter than the axle with the end ground at a very slight angle and a small step. It's usually enough to nudge the spacer sideways a bit. Keep moving round so that you drift it out straight. As soon as the bearing moves a little the spacer should be able to move sideways a bit more.
When putting the new bearings in, put them in the freezer for a while and grease the outside surface well. Make sure that you only hit only the outside ring when putting new ones in.
Regards
DJW
43
« on: October 05, 2010, 11:46:30 PM »
Or the PO put heavy duty springs in.
I oil mine by disconnecting it both ends, get a piece of soft rubber pipe to fit over the top end and use a plastic syringe to push some thick oil down. If it's clogged up with hard grease where it rests on top of the engine, squirt some paraffin through to clean it out first.
And put the other end in a container to catch what comes out!
Regards
Dave
44
« on: September 28, 2010, 10:19:18 PM »
On the 400 four the 2nd position on the key is for parking lights and you should be able to remove the key from that position.
For the flasher relay you can get away with a standard two terminal device from a car if the wattage is right.
I have had problems in the past with the fuse holder not gripping the fuse tight enough causing a bad connection. Try removing the fuses and squeeze the holder terminals together a bit and also check for corrosion. and loose rivets.
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