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Messages - McCabe-Thiele (Ted)

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6331
Other Bikes / Re: CB400 NC31
« on: September 28, 2020, 08:59:46 AM »
Quote from: Moorey on September 27, 2020, 09:33:58 PM
Whilst on hol in Cornwall the 400s  reg/rec failed cooking the battery and blowing several bulbs luckily with only one day to go before we returned home. Not wanting to pay the thick end of £200 for another i opted for a no doubt Chinese lookee likee.  This gets quite hot. Now I would expect it to get warm but no idea as to how warm, never having had reason to touch the original one when in operation.  So for a couple of quid i have put a fan on it and it now works much cooler which i would think can only be a good thing.


(Attachment Link)

I like it great lateral thinking- where did you source the fan is it a PC unit?

6332
Project Board / Re: My CB550 K3 Restore Project
« on: September 27, 2020, 09:26:35 PM »
Quote from: heli_madken on September 27, 2020, 06:29:51 PM
Thanks Trigger I am glad I waited for them to arrive.

Pistons and cylinder block back on, used new rings and gudgeon clips.

Then got the engine back in the frame whilst it is still relatively light, did the frame over the engine thing which worked really well and I didn't scratch the frame!
(Attachment Link)

One of those bottles of Yellow Tail has my name on it tonight!

Using all new nice shiny fixings -
(Attachment Link)

Finish off cylinder head next and get the rest of the engine assembled

Wow that's a "better than new" looking engine in your photos - very nice.

6333
Humour / Sort of topical.
« on: September 27, 2020, 09:20:51 PM »
What's the difference between Vegas and Wuhan?

What happens in Vegas stays in Vegas.
 8)

6334
CB350/400 / Re: How far to go with engine strip downs - being sensible about old seals etc
« on: September 27, 2020, 05:55:08 PM »
Quote from: Bryanj on September 27, 2020, 07:42:13 AM
Multi cylinder Hondas are better built than old brit stuff and when you release the head bolt tension you also release the clamping force on the base, when you wiggle the head off chances are you move the cylinders a bit so the base gasket will leak.
I dont understand your question about pistons, you cant do anything to them without removing cylinders first
[/quote
Not sure what my question was now about the pistons either  as NJs post answered it anyway.

Today I fired her up for a few minutes then checked that oil was reaching the valves etc. As I was replacing one of the tappet cover caps I was reminded how hot front pipes get!  Nice little burn mark on my right little finger..... all the Missus Wendy  did was laugh at my stupidity.

6335
CB350/400 / Re: How far to go with engine strip downs - being sensible about old seals etc
« on: September 27, 2020, 12:06:08 AM »
Quote from: Trigger on September 26, 2020, 06:07:02 PM
Base gasket NOT head gasket  ;)

Just pull the barrels off, you won't find a dead body under them  ::)

I am confused if I understand you right if you remove the cylinder head you also have to replace the base gasket by removing the barrels - can you remove the barrels with the pistons in place or do you have to then when replacing the base gasket then somehow get the pistons back in place surely not from the bottom? On cars I have only put pistons back in from the top of the engine block?

On the one hand I can see the benefits of checking the condition of the pistons by removing them but if compression is good, oil consumption is okay why run the risk of breaking a ring when you put them back?

Forgive me if I sound thick but back in prehistoric times when I was a teenager I have done a few bike cylinder head removals for decoking etc but never removed the barrels. Maybe that's why my old Triumph 21 always leaked oil !!

Ignore my question above I've just read NJ's rebuild section circa P25 and  seen the brilliant photos - made me gulp a bit!
I'm very impressed with the cleaning & engine assembly posts.


6336
New Member Introductions / Re: Hello from Oxfordshire
« on: September 26, 2020, 02:53:09 PM »
Welcome to this wonderful community there are some very knowledgeable members her.
Looks a tidy bike as I am not a purist - the seat looks okay to me!
You should see the headlamp I'm planning to fit to my CB400F2 in the spring - I'll be called a heretic by some.

Back in the 1970's I made my Mk1 Austin Mini 1275 Cooper S look like the Mk2 by changing the front grille, bumpers & rear lights - sacrilege now of course. lol Not forgetting that I sold her for £425 whereas today even rough ones fetch over £20k.
 

6337
CB350/400 / Re: How far to go with engine strip downs - being sensible about old seals etc
« on: September 26, 2020, 10:42:32 AM »
Quote from: Trigger on September 26, 2020, 10:23:10 AM
If you have pulled the head off you, would of disturbed the base gasket and you will need to remove the barrels to change that  ;)

So to fix a blown head gasket involves removing the pistons anyway - I didn't realise that on my Honda.
That is food for thought.

Can you remove the barrels with the pistons in place by undoing the con rod caps or is that more trouble than it's worth Trigger?

Thanks Ted

PS I will always have a Plan C - that would be to pay to get the engine professionally rebuilt.

6338
CB350/400 / Re: How far to go with engine strip downs - being sensible about old seals etc
« on: September 26, 2020, 09:57:55 AM »
Quote from: Laverda Dave on September 26, 2020, 09:43:52 AM
I think once you remove the rocker cover and inspect the cam and rocker condition they will provide a good indication of how the engine has been previously looked after.  The top end of the engine is what suffers most when oil and filter changes have been neglected.
Once you remove the head to inspect the pistons and bores you will really know what you have on your hands.  Any signs of rust/scoring etc will point to a full stripdown.  As a minimum I would remove the sump pan to check the primary chain, cam chain tensioner horseshoe and the tensioner plunger. The contents of the sump pan will also provide a good indication of the state of the engine.
Read Julies rebuild thread for a good example of what may be lurking around the piston area as an excellent example of how to inspect the engine and what may be lurking within.
Not to worry if you find various nasties, lots of help and advice on here. I sense a nice winter rebuild coming on....................
Good luck :)
Dave

I like the suggested starting points though I am loath to remove pistons from a bore if there is no obvious piston damage, bore scoring or top lip.

I would have been in a position to do the engine strip whilst the frame is being powder coated following full strip down - this was planned for this year. Rather than trying to rush the engine removal before I have my surgery that's scheduled within 21 days I will have to just leave things until after Christmas. My BIL has offered to help but really I want to do it all myself as its potentially  challenging then rewarding taking it apart.

It will be difficult having the restraint not to get on with some of the easier jobs.


6339
CB350/400 / Re: How far to go with engine strip downs - being sensible about old seals etc
« on: September 26, 2020, 09:47:23 AM »
Quote from: Skoti on September 25, 2020, 08:23:32 PM
Of course Julie gives good advice.

But you may want to follow the principle of "if it's not broken don't fix it".

When my old CB750F1 was resurrected I first serviced the motor, then run it and addressed issues as they appeared.

But for example loads of stuff including crank and gearbox oil seals etc are still original and working fine.


Good luck with your project.


 

That was my late Fathers maxim - if it aint broke dont fix it - when I was a teenager I  ignored it of course dismantling things that sometimes I could not put back together. lol

6340
CB350/400 / How far to go with engine strip downs - being sensible about old seals etc
« on: September 25, 2020, 06:34:54 PM »
 Now that my little engine has run I'm turning my mind as to how far to go with an engine strip / down rebuild.
My original thought was to remove the cylinder head for valve grind, valve stem seals if they have them and checking piston tops etc.
That got me thinking about stuff like crank oil seals etc if they have them.

Without going OTT on cost what do folk here do in terms of knowing how far to go with a rebuild - any pointers / advice  as to essentials whilst the engine is out sought here. I will have to strip the clutch as the plates are bound to be stuck plus I am not in a situation to know if the gearbox is in good condition. If the piston tops look good I'm not keen to remove them unless its essential as part of the rebuild

I'm not afraid of the work involved more of an eye on cost and time involved in engine / gearbox strip downs.

6341
Project Board / Re: OAP Ted's CB400F2 rebuild - engine not run for about 12 years.
« on: September 25, 2020, 02:02:39 PM »
Second Video - right way up. lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rSXzqWE26Ho&feature=youtu.be

6342
Project Board / Re: OAP Ted's CB400F2 rebuild - engine not run for about 12 years.
« on: September 25, 2020, 11:34:42 AM »
Set the static timing this morning took me about an hour to get it all done plus 30 mins spent making a decent loom connector & test lamp to set 1&4 then 2&3.

Cranked her over having got the oil light out first with no plugs fitted - plugs in after a fair bit of popping & banging she started to fire - more choke less throttle and away she went. Only a brief video but I am ecstatic !!

Hope the brief video works.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XqxDCtCqKg&feature=youtu.be

6343
Project Board / Re: OAP Ted's CB400F2 rebuild - engine not run for about 12 years.
« on: September 24, 2020, 05:00:11 PM »
Another step closer today - re-fitted old Petcock with new tank strainer used the old seal but have the two that DS supplied - petrol tank back on the bike - 4 Litres of new Super Unleaded tap into Reserve position petrol filled the little in-line filter all looked okay for a minute or so then petrol started coming out of two of the overflow pipes. Big curse to myself !

Walked away wishing I had checked the carbs with fuel before I re-fitted them to the bike had a moan with a mate who said - have you tried a gentle tap on the carbs incase the floats are just a bit stuck as they were completely dry. Did just that followed by shaking the bike from side to side - fuel back into reserve no sign of any more fuel from overflow pipes. I've given it a good 5 minutes and no more fuel out of any of the overflows. I feel happy that's good enough for a planned initial start up.

I've checked for spark - nice visible spark at the old dirty spark plugs - I am now ready to check the static timing tomorrow morning then its new plugs in place and see if she will run. The new plugs that came with the bike are NGK D8EA as are the old ones that were fitted.

Fingers crossed for tomorrows start up attempt !! :)




6344
Anorak's Corner / Re: DoT 5.1 Brake fluid what specification do you use ?
« on: September 24, 2020, 11:32:05 AM »
Quote from: K2-K6 on September 24, 2020, 09:31:26 AM
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid

Information posted above is quite informative,  and lucid, in discussing this. I hadn't looked before,  but it seems to give decent appraisal of using silicone and why such a system would have any contaminate within it.

Also description of difference between 5.1 and 5 regarding silicone content and incompatibility or not.

DoT 5.1 is not silicone based and can be mixed with all older Dot fluids fluids except silicone based fluids such 5.0.
DoT 5.1 is what I use in all my cars but will probably go for 5.0 for the Honda CB400F2.
Interestingly some cars now have none water based coolants that are more heat efficient than water/Ethylene Glycol based-  the new generation coolants  can be used retrospectively but every trace of water must be removed first. They make a special flushing liquid to remove every scrap of water - not cheap designed more for very high performance vehicles - very good for reducing engine corrosion from coolants. The flushing agents can cost around the same price as the waterless coolant itself so its an expensive conversion unless you have a fully stripped down engine to start with.

https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/p/evans-vintage-180-waterless-coolant-5ltr-993778061?gclid=CjwKCAjwh7H7BRBBEiwAPXjadrsC2OuV8WAb6mrckteD9t9qdPQ0b1HSdV3u2VPmC68ITog6DG-8rhoCrgMQAvD_BwE

6345
Anorak's Corner / Re: DoT 5.1 Brake fluid what specification do you use ?
« on: September 24, 2020, 12:22:21 AM »
Quote from: florence on September 01, 2020, 10:12:30 AM
DOT4 works perfectly well.  I think I have also used DOT3

I agree the older specification brake fluids all work okay but if you want to avoid the build up of water in the fluid caused by hygroscopic action imho the best options are later fluids unless of course you religiously change your brake fluid on an annual basis.

The amount of water absorbed by most brake fluids depends on many factors including atmospheric moisture content of the ambient air, unused new fluid storage, winter bike storage conditions & heavy braking causing fluctuations in fluid temperatures. I am minded to agree with NJ that Silicon based 5.0 is the best option especially for classic bikes that do not always get a lot of all year round use as it is not hygroscopic.

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