This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Topics - Dolomite_
1
« on: July 24, 2024, 01:50:27 PM »
What do people use to protect an aqua blasted engine? I'm currently using some acf50 which I use on my other bike a vstrom 650 but that's mostly plastic and a painted engine.
I've seen people mention WD40, any penetrating oil and GT85.
What do you use to protect the engine?
2
« on: July 13, 2024, 03:23:12 PM »
 I've still got a few things to fettle to get the bike running perfectly but its more than ridable now. I've had my CB400f for just over 5 years, I got the bike in 2019 and what seemed like a good project needing minimal work actually turned out to be a little bit of a lemon. After doing a top end rebuild in 2019 it looked like it wasn't that well looked after, the main chain was stretched, cam chain tensioner was seized and the tensioner bolt had snapped off deep in the crank case. Then covid happened and I was made redundant, and to top it off my dad was diagnosed with cancer during covid. Both delayed me starting the rebuild for quite a while. Unfortunately, my dad passed away in 2023 and he was my main source of help as he had rebuilt countless British bikes when he was younger so I now had to take on the rebuild by myself. But thanks to many people from the forum especially Ted and Julie I managed to do my first engine rebuild. The cost was definitely more than I had expected, mostly the aqua blasting and a local Japanese bike restorer who helped rebuild a few things. I'm definitely not out of questions to ask on the forum but I've been having a blast running it in, totally different to riding my 2007 vstrom 650.
3
« on: July 06, 2024, 02:48:33 PM »
I went for the 2nd break in run yesterday and it was mostly fine, just a clutch adjustment at first but after it was hot when stopped at traffic lights in 1st, and with the clutch in the idle seemed to hang at 2k - 2.5k rpm but when closed that the throttle that extra bit from its natural resting position it then started to fall back to what it should be idling at.
Is there anything I need to check/adjust? Does the throttle linkage at the carbs need to be adjusted so it closes more? It appears to be fully closed because the extra bit I close the throttle just fully slackens the throttle cable.
4
« on: June 28, 2024, 03:04:36 PM »
I ordered a new exhaust hanger bracket from DSS as it didn't have one. When fitting it to the brituro OEM style silencer the main stand seems to get in the way. Am I fitting it wrong? The silencer connection for the bracket seems to be too long as seen in the pictures.  
5
« on: June 24, 2024, 08:52:03 PM »
The previous owner had the wrong rear indicators so I managed to get a nice original pair from 400fourbits. Ive tested them and got them working. Im guessing the ones on the bike were aftermarket because they didn't have the ground wire. How is this ground wire usually routed? Is it under the seat and into the bit with all the connections from the rear?
The tail light assembly might also have been aftermarket or from a slightly different model. The rear indicators were on a rod that goes through the rear light assembly and not on the little storks from the end of the frame.
Is the rear light meant to light up all the time like the low beam in the headlight? Mine doesn't seem to be lighting up, although I cant remember if it did previously... The brake light works fine. There are only 2 wires coming from the rear light, 1 red,1 black. The wiring diagram says there should be 3 so I appear to be missing the green ground.
I've tested the bulb and both filaments work. I have also tested running a ground wire from different points on the light bracket but it still doesn't light up unless the brake is pulled.
Can anyone spread some "light" on my wiring.
6
« on: June 23, 2024, 01:28:56 PM »
I have fitted my new downpipe and collector box from Davidsilverspares and also tried using an OEM honda collector box to silencer graphite gasket but the collector box outlet seems to be too big and the gasket starts to break up when its being pushed on.
There is a decent sized gap between the OEM style silencer and collector box outlet so I cant really tighten it until its closed. Has anyone had luck with a different sized gasket? Or used something else as a gasket?
7
« on: June 22, 2024, 07:48:12 PM »
Started it up today and after a few tries with the starter and then some more with the kick start it did eventually fire up for about 10 seconds, but then it sputtered out. Im not sure if maybe the carbs are a bit bunged up, but before storing them I did drain them completely. So I think they're fine. There is fuel, there is air and there is a spark on plug 4, Ive not checked the others yet as the battery went low. I did set up the points today and followed 2 videos ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58m84jkaAsE&t=783s and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3933ouJ1wrI&t=615s). It was fine setting the gaps, just took a few tries. I did have some issues with setting the points. I couldn't replicate exactly how they did it in the video. When I had the switch to RUN it didn't seem to make a noise on my multimeter even when the points were touching on 1/4 with the timing mark on F but it did literally spark at the contact point when I moved the points disk back and forth. When setting the points for 2/3 I didn't seem to get noise on my multimeter at all. When I set the switch to OFF and touch both points the multimeter makes a noise but as soon as I switch it to run it doesn't make a noise. Is there a better way to set the static points? Other than that it seems to be ok, the oil light went out and I also got a few splats of oil come out of the tappet cover holes.
8
« on: June 20, 2024, 09:14:01 PM »
Getting the last bits on the engine ready to fire up on the weekend and somehow one of the cam shaft sprocket threads stripped when I was hand tightening it. Not sure how, I was just hand tightening both of them up equally.
To save me trying to find a new camshaft or tapping a new thread. How bad of an idea/fix would it be to just get a slightly longer bolt and use a nut to hold it in place? There is enough room on the other side for a nut.
9
« on: June 06, 2024, 08:45:24 AM »
Is there a way to lock the transmission with the tool to torque up the primary shaft bolt?
If there isn't an easy way to lock it before it goes back in the bike I'll just have torque it up when the cluck is on and I can lock it with the back brake.
10
« on: June 05, 2024, 05:59:08 PM »
Bit of a brain fart, and I cant quite tell from the pictures I took. In the picture, the hole where the starter gear shaft is inserted, what covers it up? is there a bung or does something else go in there? 
11
« on: June 03, 2024, 02:57:05 PM »
Im rebuilding the transmission and cant quite figure out who the 25mm lock washer goes on. Its part 90462-323-000 and seen here on yamiya https://www.yamiya750.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=179_273_206_210&products_id=2860. Is it meant to sit flush with the thrust washer? The outward splines wont fit underneath the splines on the thrust washer. I just want to double check that it seems correct before I put it all together.   I didn't do the rule of you never have enough pictures...
12
« on: May 26, 2024, 04:13:54 PM »
More bearing headache. I managed to get one of the 5205hs bearings off easily but the other one has a spacer type thing that closes of the hole where the output sprocket it. because its been exposed and dirty and wont budge. I cant get my bearing puller behind the bearing and I don't want to risk trying to pull the bearing and spacer off by the gear sprocket. Has any had any luck removing it? 
13
« on: May 24, 2024, 12:56:54 PM »
Possibly made a cock up. Ive been cleaning all the transmission gears, shafts etc and it looked like the 5205HS bearings are really stuck on. So I left them on and cleaned the parts with degreaser and petrol. Before cleaning they sounded perfectly find and didn't feel rough but now they are a bit noisy and don't feel as smooth. I'm not sure if I cocked up or its because they have no oil on/in them anymore. I've sprayed a bit of bulldog BDX penetrating oil/lube on them and they seem a bit better. Would they be safe to use or should I fork out the almost £100 for 2 new 5205HS bearings? Does anyone know any sources other than yamiya? Should they be hard to get off? Are they pressed on? 
14
« on: May 23, 2024, 09:23:33 PM »
Well I didnt check the parts count correctly and only ordered one from David silvers and now its saying 0 in stock. I've measured the needle bearing and its 21mm inside 26mm outside and 15m wide. Does anyone know where you can get a needle bearing of that size, google has come up with nothing.
Or does anyone have one spare its 91022333018 superseded by 91022377008.
15
« on: May 16, 2024, 07:49:48 PM »
It's almost time to start putting my engine back together, just waiting for the last bits to be aqua blasted and bolts zinc plated.
Just thought I'd ask the question again, what assembly lubes would people recommend? I've seen quite a few mentioned.
Should I put anything in the cylinders? I've seen people mention a few drops of oil, graphite lube, and nothing.
|
Show Posts