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Messages - Siloxious
1
« on: April 13, 2024, 07:44:37 PM »
Hi everyone.
My right hand upper exhaust pipe has some rather big holes in it and thus, I’d like to replace it (or alteratively, if someone has experience with patching large holes, let me know).
Does anyone know where I can buy separate pipes of the exhaust system (its for a K1)? I don’t want to buy a set of four as the other three are still good. Ebay doesn’t give good results, as the two pipes I’ve found there are quite dented or rusted…
Thanks in advance!
2
« on: April 13, 2024, 07:40:41 PM »
Sounds like there is something wrong with your idle speed or idle circuit in the carbs.
1) Have you tried turning the thumb screw on the set of carburators to increase the idle speed? Perhaps it was too low.
2) This could also be due to a clogged idle circuit in your carbs. Have you cleaned them already? The obstruction could be in your slow jet or the circuit itself (in this case, ultrasonic cleaning is a great solution)
3
« on: April 13, 2024, 05:33:20 PM »
Thanks for your answers!
Yes, I have split the carbs and cleaned them ultrasonically.
The ignition timing has been set statically. I have not yet done a dynamic sync (of both the carbs and ignition) as these tools are quite expensive to only use one time. But maybe they are necessary…
To be concrete: a dynamic sync with vacuum gauges of the carbs is to ensure that the carbs are in sync. A compression test of the cylinders is to see if there are problems with the engine? Does a problem with a carb have influence on the compression test?
4
« on: April 13, 2024, 10:41:28 AM »
Hi everyone! I'm back here again as I'm a bit lost.
At the suggestion of one of you, I have cleaned my carbs and assembled them according to Motormac. I've really (really) cleaned them well.
My original problem was that the engine cut of in idle and generally didn't idle well. Also, the engine made a ticking noise. When I touched the exhaust pipes, I felt that all cylinders were hot, but cylinder 4 was I bit colder than the other three. So I thought that this ticking noise could be due to the cylinder not firing properly due to a clogged idle circuit. You guys thought the same, and thus I cleaned the carbs.
I hoped my problems would be over after the reassembly of the carbs. I have put in new brass jets. The engine idles a bit better, but there are still three problems.
1) The exhaust from cylinder 4 is still a bit colder than the other three. This could be connected to problem 2. Because I have really cleaned the carbs well, I would be surprised this is still a carb problem. Although, I don't exclude the carbs completely.
2) The ticking noise is still present in the engine, it is especially noticable at low rpm. In a video from a couple of months ago, it can be observed. <https://youtube.com/shorts/NGVH7g6JEZg?si=RLU1ZoAWtI8Ji8E2>
3) When I open the choke after starting, the revs shoot up to the 6000 rpm range. I suppose this could be a carb problem.
Does anyone have an idea where these problems come from? I have already checked the ignition timing and valve clearances. Can anyone give me suggestions to what it is? (I'm really hoping something isn't loose in cylinder 4, could this be the case?)
Thanks in advance!
5
« on: March 24, 2024, 02:40:25 PM »
Hello everyone, Deltarider gave me the following advice about fuel lines:
1.Verify fuellines have the right dimensions
The CB500/550s are very sensitive for a proper fuelflow route, so let us first establish whether everything is standard or not.The correct dimensions for the fuellines are: for the CB500 and earlier CB550s: 18 and 30 cm length for the models with the bowltype petcock and 17 and 28 cm for models that have the newer style petcock. Do not be tempted to have them longer. For the tube that supplies carbs 3+4, use the soft metal clamp in the middle front side as shown in the pic (btw, horizontal is good enough) for proper routing. Ideal inside ⌀ of the fuel lines is 5,5 mm. Outside ⌀ will be around 10mm. Have this and the lines will not kink. Abstain from extra inline filters. Some have been lucky with them, but my experience is they can't be trusted. Often it isn't that filter itself, but the rerouting of the fuel line that - sometimes intermittent - impedes a proper delivery of the gas.
I am living in Belgium, and I've been looking everywhere for these dimensions, but I can not find them.
Can I also use inner diameter 5mm and outside 10mm? (or for example inner diameter 6mm?) Or does this impede the fuel flow too much?
Thanks in advance!
6
« on: March 22, 2024, 11:21:42 AM »
Hey everyone,
I have a crack in one of my valve tappet covers. Coincidentally, this cover is placed on a cylinder that is misfiring (but this could also be due to a clogged idle circuit in the carbs - I'm adressing that now).
I was wondering if this broken valve tappet cover has any influence on the performance of the engine. Of course I understand that oil could leak out of the engine because of this crack, but are there any other influences? I don't know if the camshaft and valve area of the engine should be at a certain pressure and this crack prevents that, but that would have an influence on all cylinders...
Does anyone have an opinion about this?
Kind regards
7
« on: November 04, 2023, 02:29:28 PM »
@ Siloxious Just to satisfy my curiosity, when you set the timing of the ignition, did you first check the breakerpoints gaps?
As far as the carbs.
1.Verify fuellines have the right dimensions
The CB500/550s are very sensitive for a proper fuelflow route, so let us first establish whether everything is standard or not.The correct dimensions for the fuellines are: for the CB500 and earlier CB550s: 18 and 30 cm length for the models with the bowltype petcock and 17 and 28 cm for models that have the newer style petcock. Do not be tempted to have them longer. For the tube that supplies carbs 3+4, use the soft metal clamp in the middle front side as shown in the pic (btw, horizontal is good enough) for proper routing. Ideal inside ⌀ of the fuel lines is 5,5 mm. Outside ⌀ will be around 10mm. Have this and the lines will not kink. Abstain from extra inline filters. Some have been lucky with them, but my experience is they can't be trusted. Often it isn't that filter itself, but the rerouting of the fuel line that - sometimes intermittent - impedes a proper delivery of the gas.
2. To be sure, all four carbs receive the same amount of fuel, read this: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,185754.msg2151647.html#msg2151647 When you do this test, realise it takes quite some time before the bowl is filled completely.
I’ve just checked the ignition timing statically and the bike idles good at 1100 rpm. As I have not a lot of time today, I’ll check the carbs tomorrow. Thanks for your advice!
8
« on: November 03, 2023, 05:19:50 PM »
[...]This is the video I followed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFTOfYl5BSc&ab_channel=ClassicOctane. The best on the subject is Motormac. On Youtube: Motormac Honda CB500 four Vergaser. You don't have to see all of them. Language is German. But he's the best.
[...] Would you suggest that I clean the bowls again? Personally I'd refit the original parts. Mine ran 140.000 km and still don't wear.
I've not touched the thumb screw in any way since I've bought the bike. So I guess I'll try it tomorrow.
That should be the first step. Who kniws? Aim at an idle of 1150-1200 rpm.
Thanks for your valuable input! Today I've managed to get the engine to idle at 1000 rpm by simply turning the thumb screw. I've made 3 videos that explain some concerns. Video 1: https://youtube.com/shorts/sF54YTm3NVY?feature=shareAfter starting the engine with choke closed, the engine idles at 3000 rpm with choke open. When I close the choke again, the engine instantly stalls. Is this normal? Video 2: https://youtube.com/shorts/Bz4SHuQANso?feature=shareI turned the thumb screw and managed to get the engine to idle at 1500 rpm. But when I use the throttle, the engine got stuck in a high idle at 3000 rpm. Video 3: https://youtube.com/shorts/NGVH7g6JEZg?feature=shareBy further turning of the thumb screw, the engine idles around 1100 rpm. However, there is a sound coming from the engine that doesn't sound that good. Also, after throttling the engine almost stalls. How do I proceed from here? Cheers!
9
« on: November 02, 2023, 03:56:19 PM »
Thanks for the answer! 1) The bike (apparently) stood still for 2.5 years. 2) The carb bowls were dirty and there was a lot of gunk inside, so I would think they contained fuel. 3) I have already rebuilt the carbs by the instructions of Classic Octane a year ago. I've used a kit, so the jets are new. This is the video I followed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JFTOfYl5BSc&ab_channel=ClassicOctane. 4) Half a year ago, I was ready to start the bike. I used a secondary fuel tank and no exhaust. I had a little accident with some leaked fuel :(. Nothing broke but I definitely learned that I should work safer. I then decided to first fully restore the fuel tank and fit the exhausts, so there would be a small chance of fuel leaking. 5) Now, with a clean fuel tank and exhausts, I started the bike again and it worked. Because I tried starting it half a year ago, some fuel ran through the carbs. So, it could be possible the jets are clogged. Would you suggest that I clean the bowls again? 6) The ignition advancer moves freely. When I noticed the cam was turned 180 degrees wrong, I decided to clean the advancer while I had to take it apart. I've lubricated it sufficiently. 7) Tomorrow, I can work on the bike. I'll check for that ark that you're talking about. I sadly don't have a stoboscopic timinglight, so I'll have to do with a static timing. I'll check the static timing tomorrow (I use a multimeter to test it, since I don't have a static timing light). 8) I've not touched the thumb screw in any way since I've bought the bike. So I guess I'll try it tomorrow.
10
« on: November 02, 2023, 03:06:37 PM »
Just so we're talking about the same screw: if you say thumb screw, do you mean screw number 42? I've put these in and gave them 1 and 1/8 turns from when they're seated all the way (as the shop manual mentions an air screw opening of 1 and +- 1/8).
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11
« on: November 02, 2023, 01:44:54 PM »
Hello everyone!
I had an awesome weekend, I was finally able to get my CB500 Four running! After a year and a half of work on the bike, it came to life. While wrestling with the ignition, I noticed that the previous owner had installed the cam of the ignition advance 180 degrees wrong. After fixing this, the engine came to life with only one kick with the kickstarter. Now, another chapter of the restoration begins!
The engine starts brilliantly, no problems with starting and runs on all four cylinders (the exhausts become hot). However, it cuts off when idling. When I use the throttle, the engine reacts. But beneath 2000 rpm, it begins to sputter and beneath 1000 rpm, it cuts off. It just doesn’t idle at all. I noticed that cylinders 2 and 3 are hotter than 1 and 4. Would anyone know what the problem could be?
The next thing on my list is doing a compression test of the cylinders as I’ve not gotten around to it yet. And if I can manage to get the engine to idle, I’d like to do a carburetor synchronisation.
Overall, it was a good weekend!
Cheers!
12
« on: October 20, 2023, 09:14:57 PM »
The Helicoil will also return it to a M6 thread as well if you are not aware.
Just a heads up, the helicoil worked! I stripped these threads because I thought the exhaust pipe joint should touch the block. I suddenly realised this and wow, I was annoyed with myself. Now with the helicoils, the exhaust pipes fit nicely on the block and I haven't had any problems so far. I'll update if the helicoils loosen when riding the bike for a bit. Thanks everyone!
13
« on: October 14, 2023, 01:55:32 PM »
Here in Belgium E95 is used a lot in cars, so I thought this could be the same fuel type for motorcycles.
What fuel do you use?
14
« on: October 14, 2023, 12:32:02 PM »
Hello everyone
I'm currently restoring the fuel tank (inside). I filled the whole tank with white vinegar and let it sit for 48 hours. The results are quite good. But now I need to treat the aluminium against corrosion. I plan on using WD-40 to coat the inside of the tank (I plan on using a lot of WD-40). After soaking for a bit, I'll fill the tank again with fuel (I think the best fuel for the CB500 Four is E95?).
Is the WD-40 a good protection against corrosion?
Is this the right fuel that I'll be using?
Thanks in advance!
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15
« on: September 08, 2023, 04:58:27 PM »
Hello
Just now, an inner thread of the exhaust stud whole in the engine has snapped. I can move the exhaust stud freely in this hole. This sucks...
My idea was to tap a new M8 thread in the engine and try to fasten the exhaust pipe with a M8 bolt.
Does anyone have any experience with this? Do you think this would be a good idea or do you have alternatives? I already used loctite but it didn't work...
Thanks in advance!
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