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Messages - Mike_Berkshire
31
« on: April 27, 2024, 09:39:43 PM »
Are we talking here about the captive type stud/bolt that is normally part of the tensioner blade - not available as a separate part? Is your tensioner blade in otherwise good condition.
The tensioner blade and mechanism assembly looks to me to be in good condition. It is just the head of the screw that goes through the 10mm nut with the little gear bit on the end. Where the outer part of the locking screw should have a slot it has had too much force applied with a screwdriver and one side of the slotted part for the screwdriver has sheared off.
32
« on: April 27, 2024, 05:28:48 PM »
The washers stick in the head recesses but if really missing are still available new.
On the adjuster is the thread stripped all the way down or just at the end? Honda should never have put that slot in there it gets abused.
New pattern ones are available but expensive and dont often come up used in good order any more.
I MAY have a used one but it wont be cheap
Thanks Bryan. The thread isnt stripped its the slot that has broken away; theres only half the slot. I have a mate who is a very ingenious fellow with a plethora of lathes, welding equipment and goodness only knows what else. I will see what he can devise but if I draw a blank I'll let you know.
33
« on: April 27, 2024, 10:09:37 AM »
Its been a pretty good morning so far. Head and barrels now removed and time for a rest and some tea. Just a couple of worries along the way: 1) I only have 11 head bolt washers, not 12 so where is the 12th, was there ever a 12th? ( I have used an inspection lamp to look down the cam chain tunnel and I cant see anything in there, I have given the head a good shake and it hasnt fallen out. 2) the screwdriver slot on the cam chain tensioner adjuster screw is stripped out/snapped off. Waiting for my son to come round later this morning to help remove the forks.
34
« on: April 27, 2024, 08:22:28 AM »
Thanks all. Im pleased to report that with the dawn of a new (rainy) day there has been another victory in the shed. What did the trick was using a blunt ended punch and using it to tap the end of the dowels using a metal hammer to get a nice sharp impact; not much force was needed and this was obviously sufficient to crack the bond between the steel dowel and the aluminium. Look out for the next posts asking for help and advice getting the head off. Im gong to leave it for a while before the next step having squirted releasing oil onto the head bolts. Thanks again for the support.
35
« on: April 26, 2024, 10:25:20 PM »
The dowels aren't locked to either part Mike, they are totally removable. It's just the corrosion that's making them feel locked at the moment.
Thanks Julie. Does that mean that they can be tapped out to free them or are they waisted?
36
« on: April 26, 2024, 09:43:04 PM »
Mine was fairly solid, might be worth tapping it back down where it is sligjhtly raised. I found my big rubber mallet worked making sure I tapped it all round including some upper blows on the intake side.
I also sprayed WD40 type stuff all around the dealing area.
Thanks Ted. I have just given it another good squirting and a firmer tapping with a plastic headed mallet to no avail. I havent tried tapping upwards from the intake side; i will try that tomorrow morning after an overnight soak. Where did you bash it upwards on the intake side? I can slide a polished paint scraper around between the castings to the right hand dowel but not the left hand one so I guess its seized on the left one. Im assuming the dowels are supposed to be locked into the head as opposed to the rocker housing?
37
« on: April 26, 2024, 07:49:07 PM »
Im assuming that the dowels are designed to be retained in the head and not in the rocker housing? Giving the top end of the dowel a few taps with a blunt punch might hep free off some of the corrosion?
38
« on: April 26, 2024, 07:15:49 PM »
2 solid dowels there, you can see the top of them, soak with penetrating oil and leave it with overnight. If still stuck, gentle diffused heat will help. Don't forget to remove the all the tappets before trying to remove the rocker cover.
Thanks Julie. I will douse them in penetrating oil and leave overnight as suggested. Its probably a good idea to put the bolts back in to keep the castings flush? I will see how things are tomorrow morning.
39
« on: April 26, 2024, 06:13:32 PM »
Following the successful (final) removal of the seized oil filter bolt and the seized engine hanger I have got the engine out and on the workbench. Sump, breather cover, cam end covers removed. Rocker cover/assembly screws and bolts all removed thanks to the impact driver and JIS bits recommended by this forum. However, the rocker cover/assembly wont lift off. I have given it a few taps with the soft mallet and checked for hidden bolts but I cant see anything I have missed. There is a clear gap at the front of the engine between the cover and the head but at the back (intake side) there is no gap at all. It looks as if there are a couple of locating dowels on the back edge which if steel may have corroded and stuck fast. Is there a bolt/screw I may have missed and what are the thoughts about the locating dowels sticking; does this happen and if so is there a remedy? I have attached an aerial view in case there is something obvious to the experts. Many thanks. Mike
40
« on: April 26, 2024, 06:00:20 PM »
41
« on: April 26, 2024, 01:37:47 PM »
You ust be chuffed.
What replacement bolt will you be using? There are non OEM bolts with a larger hex. Less change to get mangled.
Thanks Jan! Yes chuffed but more relieved that I got it out OK. I havent yet thought about what replacement but a good call that some have larger bolt heads. I will also need the washer that goes between the spring and oil filter. It was either never there or I threw it out with the old (ancient) oil filter I removed. I did have a dig through the bin but didnt find anything.
42
« on: April 25, 2024, 02:43:17 PM »
Welcome to the forum Kev. I joined about a month ago and I have had lots of great advice and help already from carb rebuilding to removal of seized oil filter bolts. This is a great place to learn. A really supportive and knowledgeable bunch.
43
« on: April 24, 2024, 09:49:29 PM »
Great feeling. Good job
Very surprised the stud extractor did not work. Did you use the one size smaller than the one that fit and tap it on?
Yes and it just tore off some of the remaining metal but there was just a small nub left. Still I’m sure they will come in useful in the future
44
« on: April 24, 2024, 05:05:57 PM »
Nope - no washer on the one I removed. Spring, yes. Washer, nope.
45
« on: April 24, 2024, 03:52:18 PM »
Victory is mine! The bolt extractor sockets didnt work although a great purchase for future use. Eventually I had to opt for cold chisel and the big hammer - thank goodness for the flange under the bolt head.
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