Honda-SOHC

I noticed that (after I've bought several used sets on ebay) those rubbers between the carb and head were a bit loose.
Every one of them. I didn't pay attention to it first but after putting on the original clamps I noticed that when I would tighten them till maximum (those 2 stops hit each other) there was still play.
Naturally after putting the rubbers on and pulling them off again in the last 40 years they were not as tight as they should be.
So I have bought these:
https://www.ebay.de/itm/Schlauchschellen-Edelstahl-V2A-mit-Schneckengewinde-DIN-3017-W2-von-8mm-180mm/253264148517?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
quite cheap I think 8,90 and free shipment in Germany for 10 - and they look good too.

With those clamps I could get te rubbers on much tighter. Or actually as tight as they needed to be.
Since then I am advising everyone to get rid of those original ones.
Of course they are not original. That might be a nono for many. But the bike preforms really well with those.
I am going tho replace them on my 750 as well..

After carefully looking I can say this bike has had a repaint.
The neck of the gastank is painted as well.
That would be the first thing to do; free the paint on top of the neck so that the seal from the cap rests on bare metal.

Dutch. Not German.
18.000.000 people might get a little irritated if you mix them up.
The other 80.000.000 would only find it very funny.

I would also not recommend Andy.
Have had quite a few not customer friendly encounters with him.

I am nt buying from him anymore as well....

Placing decals almost on a daily basis I would advise you to do as follows:

Take a atomiser or sprayer or what it is called in English... to spray water on plants.
Fill it with water.
Ad a drop of liquid soap. The kind you use to wash the dishes.
A drop is enough.
Shake.

Spray on tank.
Free the decal and keep it above the tank when doing so.

It will probably fall out of your hands -  that is ok - as long as it lands on the tank.
Remember - as long as the tank is wet and the decal has its sticky part free the tank is the best place to keep the decal (for instance when the phone rings).
Sticky part down -  that is

The water on the tank will make sure the decal will not stick permanent.
Now take the decal and place it how you want it.
You can take it off again and on again as often as you like.
But keep the tank wet.

The moment you are really satisfied you can leave it on.

Now take a credit card and push the water from underneath the decal.
Watch out for wrinkles when doing this.

Numbers: the k2 Decal - 16 cm at the front measured from the bottom front corner, first pinhole (From the HONDA logo attachment) 4,6 cm straight up.
Second pinhole 4,5 cm straight up.
At the rear... now this is a bit difficult since those decals are all quite different. Some are longer than others.
But watch out for this: the k2 tank has 2 'corners' where the decal should be placed in. The decal should not go over or UNDER(!) this bent.

One small thing though: decals are like bread; they have an expiring date.
Using old stickers (6 months or older) might leave them not sticking enough, leaving airpockets under the decal which will not go away.
Or the decal will stick immediately to the tank through the water. If the decal sticks to aggressive throw it away. It might damage the paint  when trying to correct the decal.
Ask the seller for a fresh decal.
Or even better:

BUY DIEGO'S DECALS!

(Best advise ever)

Before placing the clips; first look how the badges follow the line of the tank.
Sometimes they need adjusting (bending a bit).
When the badge is perfect in line; first place the clips then press the badges in place.

Yes I know.. but quite a few people put the clips on the badge and then try to get the badges on  - because that is also how the got the badges off.. with the clips still on the badge.

Well Mick, what did you do that made your tank started rusting immediatly again?

Best trick is what Trigger said as well: as soon as you have emptied the tank rinse it with diesel.
The diesel will stick to the steel preventing rust.
After you emptied the tank completely the inside will have a thin layer of diesel preventing rust.
You can safely fill the tank up with gasoline and ride immediately.

Original cap rubbers don't have a thin or thick part.
They are both the same.

The correct way has to be the way the rubber fills out the space from the edge to the inner upstanding middle part.
So there should not be space left.
I think with your seal the thin part goes up.
This part was made thin to make it easier to put the seal on without taking the whole cap appart.
In the factory they put on the seal and than pressed the cap together. (Zink part in the chrome cover).