Post by: mickwinf on November 06, 2022, 03:44:06 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 06, 2022, 04:25:27 PM
Seriously nice finish and not that hard if you follow his advice, if he puts a monolog up Mick. I have had great success with the ABRANET cloth that comes in differing grades from the internet, I'll bob a link up. It folds so you dont have sharp corners which can create brand new scratches really deep if youre not careful. You use it dry which is good and it lasts forever. Get a couple of mixed lots, it really takes the big dings out of the ally before you get to start to get a flat finish.
I've just started on teh rear back plate using the plastic disscs ken mentioned,( you csn see themon the bench there, they are brilliant, just makesure the peiceis COMPLETELY grease free as youll rubit into the ally and itstains badly no matter how hard you pedal at it. Top crap off with these, sand the buggery out of it with the cloth grades and then try to copy Ken and get it mirror on the felt wheels.
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 06, 2022, 04:25:33 PM
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Post by: Sesman on November 06, 2022, 04:28:12 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 06, 2022, 04:28:17 PM
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322284949822
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 06, 2022, 04:32:32 PM
THese laqst ages and are brilliant. If you dont catch the screw from the dremel on your piece, theres absolutely no damage that you can do with these. that was 10 mins late last night. Its so addictive as it works so well that I had to tear meself away. looking forward to having another go tonight 8)
Post by: Sesman on November 06, 2022, 04:32:55 PM
Post by: Sesman on November 06, 2022, 04:34:59 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 06, 2022, 04:50:05 PM
try this..........
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B097NHP7CM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details
Post by: mickwinf on November 07, 2022, 09:24:02 AM
Post by: Sesman on November 07, 2022, 09:43:51 AM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 07, 2022, 12:35:18 PM
I think its that they get less abrasive the lighter the colour but if you ask Ken he will know
Post by: Oddjob on November 07, 2022, 02:54:46 PM
Discs, get them from the Amazon link Roo put up, ccurrently not available I see but wait until they are, there are others the same for sale on Amazon but not as cheap, however if you're desperate a quick search for abrasive brushes will show them. If you look my review of them is at the bottom of the page.
They come in different colours, the Dark Green is most abrasive at roughly the same as 80 grade wet/dry. Then Dark Blue 120, Red 220, Light Blue 400, Purple 600, Light Green 1000 and finally White 2000. White is like a pumice stone, you can't really use it on alloy but on brass or a soft metal they'll give a nice finish. I tend to start with either Dark Green or Dark Blue, 2 on a mandrel, you can use 1 if you need to bend it into a corner or a curved surface, use at 90 degrees but keep altering the angle of attack so to speak or you'll dig a trench in the alloy. Occasionally lay one on it's side, virtually flat to the surface for reaching into places. So look at the piece you're doing, is it in bad condition? can you see dents, gouges or deep scratches, if so Dark Green is your friend. Just don't press hard, I cannot emphasise this enough, you press hard and 3 things will happen, firstly you'll dish the metal or dig a trench as I like to call it, secondly, the fronds will start to detach and they will hit you in the face and lastly and most importantly, you'll burn out the Dremel, been there, done that, 3 times already, luckily 2 were replaced under warranty. I have 4 Dremels and use 2 of them at a time, keep feeling the Dremel body, when it gets hot change to the other to allow it to cool down. If you haven't got a flexible extension for your Dremel get one, you'll never go back to using a normal Dremel again. If your buying a new Dremel buy the 4300, it's FAR better than the 4000, I've burnt 3 4000s as I said.
So, look at the piece, if not too damaged and lacquer all discoloured and dirty isn't damage, then start with Dark Blue or even Red. You'll grow used to how to get the best out of the discs, I can't explain it but you'll soon find what works best for you. I still experiment even now to see if I can find a better way, do the whole surface first, don't stop when you spot something, you can spend ages working on a small area and then find a huge crack hiding under the lacquer which means the piece is junk. So after doing the entire surface go back to the problem areas, now here's where it gets a little contentious, I maintain the cases etc are painted and you'll soon see why I say that, as you sand you'll first start to see the lacquer just melting away under the brush, then you'll see the paint layer come off, then you'll hit alloy. You'll tell each one by the colour, keep turning the piece to catch the light as you need to see shadows etc, they show where damage is better than the naked eye. When you see the entire piece naked of lacquer/paint then you'll see what I've always said, jesus these things are not cast very well, there are flashings on the edges not been removed, injectors marks in the surface, ripples in the surface, swirls and small pits that the paint etc was covering up. What looked like a decent piece before suddenly looks awful, sometimes better but mostly awful and here's where doubt steps in. You really wish you hadn't started this and you'll get that feeling again and again, keep going, it gets better. Use the brushes creatively, I call it sculpting the metal and after a while you'll find you can actually shape it before you're eyes.
Each bit of damage needs it own solution, pits, just keep going over them and removing microns of metal at a time, first have a visual check, is there enough metal there to be able to remove some safely, depends on the piece TBH, if it's a safety piecce, like the brake caliper arm then don't go mad, if it's just a cover and it doesn't really need that much strength then you can go a little harder. Don't be afraid to remove the surface, I've only gone through one casing ever and the damage was so bad beforehand I only did it to see if it was possible to repair it, it wasn't so it went in the junk pile. Things like brake plates are VERY thick, they can withstand quite a bit, camshaft end caps are essentially decorative, they seal oil yes but the alloy is just a way of supporting the O-Rings, you can remove quite a bit if needed. Assess first and if the damage doesn't appear to be going away after a few minutes then leave it. Really deep gouges, like road rash from sliding down the road, use a file first, get brutal, the marks will go away with the Dark Green brush.
Sorry this is so long winded, so you've done the surface, all the marks have now gone or you've accepted you can live with them. The surface however is rough, you can see marks left by the fronds etc. Go up a grade of brush, go to Dark Blue if you used Dark Green etc, lightly just run it over the surface, leave it to linger a little in bad areas and you'll see the surface getting smoother and smoother, you'll also see odd stuff in the surface, like swirls in the alloy. don't ignore them but don't worry we'll deal with them later. After doing it with the next grade go up again, now the marks the last grade left will be removed etc. Keep going until you're happy, I usually stop at Light Blue as by this time it's time for the polishing mop to take over.
I'll stop here in case it's boring, I know it's boring just writing this down, god knows what it's like reading it.
Let me know if you want me to continue onto the polishing process but in answer to Roos question, buffing compound or soap grades, Dark Grey is REALLY abrasive, then Grey, then on alloy use Brown, then White. I finish off with pink these days for a deep lustre.
Oh and before I forget, I don't normally use any hand sanding at all these days unless the surface is tubular, like a fork slider. Forget hand sanding, it's ineffective, time consuming and hard work, let the Dremel take the strain.
Post by: Sesman on November 07, 2022, 03:07:54 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 07, 2022, 03:16:16 PM
Top write up Ken ;)
Post by: Oddjob on November 07, 2022, 03:30:44 PM
How to get better results and cheaper chroming for your parts.
I have 2 old CB500 chain adjusters, 50 year old parts, not too bad TBH BUT with the usual pitting etc. So I decided to spend a little time on one and leave the other alone. They have both been de-chromed so back to bare metal, although it's a sort of dull grey metal now. The pits are easy to see now, you can also see which parts will start to rust first, so I set about removing all the pits and removing all the potential areas where rust would start to get a hold of first, you don't see these areas until you look very closely and see the damage already caused by rust, on the chain adjuster for instance it's the edges, they are really rough, lots of small cavities that water tends to hide in and sit there and slowly attack the chrome until it finally gets through and then it starts to attack the metal and blow off the nickel layer etc. So by removing these small cavities this will hopefully stop this happening after your expensive new chrome finish, putting a radius on the edges is another, lets get that water off there quicker.
I was intending to do a small thread on the subject but this has prompted me to bring it up before I finished. This was in answer to Roo having trouble with his plater re the chain guard and the small pits on there, I find my chromer loves it when I do a lot of the work beforehand, he charges me a pittance in comparison as it reduces his time spent on the piece by 80%.
Should I complete this?
Post by: Sesman on November 07, 2022, 03:32:23 PM
Post by: Oddjob on November 07, 2022, 03:35:48 PM
To get between the hole for the brake lever and that small knob use a brand new brush Roo so the fronds are as long as possible, don't use that brush again until you need to access deep areas like that, use a brush already shortened for simple to reach areas.
The top of those ridges, use a flap wheel on those, it's got a flat surface so it's better for areas like that, they go really flat and all the damage will just melt away.
Post by: Oddjob on November 07, 2022, 03:40:13 PM
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mandrels-Cleaning-Finishing-Deburring-Abrasive/dp/B089F215V5/ref=sr_1_38?crid=37CFJC8F7TO54&keywords=abrasive+brushes&qid=1667830829&s=industrial&sprefix=abrasive+%2Cindustrial%2C67&sr=1-38
Post by: Sesman on November 07, 2022, 03:53:31 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 07, 2022, 03:57:49 PM
Im on with it tonight I think so I'll have a go at that. cheers.
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 07, 2022, 05:46:12 PM
On these plastic disc things, one side is plain, the other has a small dimple, divot in it. When you put them on the Drexel, the little dot needs to be facing the Drexel otherwise they rag to bits in seconds. Direction of travel and all that.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221107/ded1f3e88d9146e6e67d3a6e6cfc87c5.jpg)
I say both discs only coz I use two at a time.
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Post by: Laverdaroo on November 07, 2022, 05:47:21 PM
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Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 07, 2022, 05:52:31 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 07, 2022, 05:56:15 PM
Having a ash with a couple of the purple ones to see if Iva get out what I wanted. It’s being a bit stubborn but Muddy Waters is on the radio, kettles on and I’ve even remembered to wear some gloves……….get in
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Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 07, 2022, 06:02:54 PM
Post by: Oddjob on November 07, 2022, 06:06:49 PM
Plus you'll find doing this kind of stuff gets contagious, you'll be cleaning stuff up you didn't consider before, like de-rusting the gear lever, using the white or light green brush can do this without affecting the chrome too much. You could also try this, although I haven't tested this theory yet, do the camshaft end caps with a very high numbered abrasive, like purple, just to remove the paint and lacquer, then try and see if scouring the surface with a kitchen scourer leaves a surface you can relacquer. Might work, who knows till someone tries it. If nothing else it will make them look better than dirty old lacquer.
A couple of pics of stuff, to keep you motivated.
Before polishing, just flatted.
(https://i.postimg.cc/gkxCMDvH/IMG-2920.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7fythSt5)
(https://i.postimg.cc/76PcSMH7/IMG-2921.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PLc2jD8r)
Notice the small darkish area halfway up and slightly to the left of centre. That's one of those mysterious marks that appear when you sand away the paint etc, it's some sort of stain or something, it will go if you work hard on it but best to see if the buffing removes it first.
Close up. It's not a dent or a crack, it's not caused by the sanding, it's some sort of casting stain I think.
(https://i.postimg.cc/QCYHjbtq/IMG-2922.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CnDFNbbZ)
Not the same float bowl but it was in the same shape as that one, not final polished, just it's initial polish. The final polish will remove some of the very fine marks, hopefully.
(https://i.postimg.cc/28Xzyyx2/IMG-2917.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YhYcypZW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1zDPvH1j/IMG-2918.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CZMW1b1G)
(https://i.postimg.cc/1RvS7Xbs/IMG-2919.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/nM9NCFHP)
Post by: Oddjob on November 07, 2022, 06:07:29 PM
Meant to add earlier but forgot. It’s only that I’ve just done it reminded me.
On these plastic disc things, one side is plain, the other has a small dimple, divot in it. When you put them on the Drexel, the little dot needs to be facing the Drexel otherwise they rag to bits in seconds. Direction of travel and all that.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221107/ded1f3e88d9146e6e67d3a6e6cfc87c5.jpg)
I say both discs only coz I use two at a time.
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Good point Roo, I'd forgotten to mention that.
Post by: Sesman on November 07, 2022, 06:09:58 PM
Post by: Oddjob on November 07, 2022, 06:11:40 PM
I did 4 last nite. Just picked it up again as there’s some spots that are Buffera touring out.
Having a ash with a couple of the purple ones to see if Iva get out what I wanted. It’s being a bit stubborn but Muddy Waters is on the radio, kettles on and I’ve even remembered to wear some gloves……….get in
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Purple might be too fine as yet Roo, unless that's done with a red, if not I find red is my favourite one to use, you can finally see it coming on and it gives you that encouragement to continue.
On the brake rivet things, clean them out with a wire brush, metal not brass and I filled them in with black paint to stop them rusting again afterwards. A little forward thinking saves a lot of effort later.
Post by: Oddjob on November 07, 2022, 06:15:16 PM
Ken, FFS stop prepping and start building…😀
I wish I could, the frames not even prepped to go to the powder coaters yet, I honestly don't think I've got one section finished yet, the front forks are close though, wheels still being prepped though. Even the seat which is NOS isn't finished yet as I've decided not to use it and I'll be making another instead, just need to have the seat pan powder coated and new foam and then having a special cover made to complete it. It will be one of those that stays in piecces but when it starts to be assembled it will go together quite quickly. Still planning for next year, around May I reckon.
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 07, 2022, 06:38:24 PM
4 freaking hours Roo that's almost a working week for me these days. Looking good though.Better than 10 with wet n dry though and no split fingers
You go steady burning the candle at both ends Ted
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Post by: Laverdaroo on November 07, 2022, 06:44:49 PM
That was the plan Ken. I was surprised when they came up metal. I’ll not do anything thete til this drudgery is done.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221107/6d5bc15d4991b1267c65d5b4c9bbcdaa.jpg)I did 4 last nite. Just picked it up again as there’s some spots that are Buffera touring out.
Having a ash with a couple of the purple ones to see if Iva get out what I wanted. It’s being a bit stubborn but Muddy Waters is on the radio, kettles on and I’ve even remembered to wear some gloves……….get in
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Purple might be too fine as yet Roo, unless that's done with a red, if not I find red is my favourite one to use, you can finally see it coming on and it gives you that encouragement to continue.
On the brake rivet things, clean them out with a wire brush, metal not brass and I filled them in with black paint to stop them rusting again afterwards. A little forward thinking saves a lot of effort later.
Taken the time since I last posted on the purp’s. Not keen on the dark green they’re a bit full on but the dark grey ones are ace and they’re supposed to be more abrasive. Horses and courses and all that
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Post by: Sesman on November 07, 2022, 07:32:36 PM
Post by: Johnny4428 on November 07, 2022, 07:36:54 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 07, 2022, 07:37:24 PM
The bishop said to …………no, leave it Roo
Loosing the will to live at the min so might swap onto fork measuring to settle a bit of a conundrum.
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Post by: Laverdaroo on November 07, 2022, 07:38:14 PM
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Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 07, 2022, 07:46:11 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 07, 2022, 08:08:02 PM
That’s just those spidery plastic wherl thingies. No sandpaper was harmed in the making of this semi finished bit, at all.
So at the min that was a slightly shagged out purple one.
Excuse crap light. It’s not yellow really
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221107/ca9b6831db656d7d1ccbbb46fdc2cfb1.jpg)Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 07, 2022, 09:06:16 PM
Are you just using a dry wheel Roo?
.(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52485096048_da1cf53b6b_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nXVQv7)30 minutes later (https://flic.kr/p/2nXVQv7) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: gary123 on November 07, 2022, 09:08:30 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 07, 2022, 09:44:55 PM
The the dings and scratches really show up and at least you get half a chance at finding the small ones.
The finer you go, the more you find, and things appear
Back a grade, do it again
Just go steady with it Ted, 30mins is spot on, sadly addictive………………until hour 6!
That’s completely dry from start to finish……30 mins is alright Ted, imagine getting that far with wet n dry
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Post by: Laverdaroo on November 07, 2022, 09:59:36 PM
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Post by: Oddjob on November 07, 2022, 11:52:02 PM
No idea what you're referring to Roo. There are no dark grey abrasive discs, dark green as you say is quite abrasive, it has it's uses and I use that colour a LOT. However it can really scrub up the surface. If you got that to shine with a purple you're doing well young grasshopper.
Done a decent job of it Roo, it should shine up nice, the better the surface the quicker it shines up and the better it looks, it's all in the prep, get that right and the rest just falls into place. At this rate I'm going to have some competition.
Looking at Teds pic, not sure what he's used, marked the surface and it looks like a wire wheel with the swirl marks. Word of advice Ted, remove the brake arm pivot pin and the torque arm bolt at the bottom before you go any further. If they are stuck in (and a lot are, and yours looks like it going to be) you're going to need to work on the plate and you don't want to do that after you've been detailing it.
I've asked max if he can make me a stainless steel torque arm bolt as pictured in your pic, just in case you damage it. They ain't available anywhere so be careful.
The brake is actually missing a small section on the edge, near the rivets.
Post by: Sesman on November 08, 2022, 08:21:23 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 08, 2022, 08:28:16 AM
There was a ding on the edge of the wheel hub that I had to deal with that was causing the brake bind that I sorted before the first ride.
No wire wheel just one of those plastic mops as well as the thin disc.
Post by: Johnny4428 on November 08, 2022, 11:59:13 AM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 08, 2022, 12:27:48 PM
Black??? Dark Grey???Well the kit I put up for 7.99 or so has dark grey, dark blue, dark green, dark brown/red, light green, light grey, purple, white in.
No idea what you're referring to Roo. There are no dark grey abrasive discs, dark green as you say is quite abrasive, it has it's uses and I use that colour a LOT. However it can really scrub up the surface. If you got that to shine with a purple you're doing well young grasshopper.
Done a decent job of it Roo, it should shine up nice, the better the surface the quicker it shines up and the better it looks, it's all in the prep, get that right and the rest just falls into place. At this rate I'm going to have some competition.
Looking at Teds pic, not sure what he's used, marked the surface and it looks like a wire wheel with the swirl marks. Word of advice Ted, remove the brake arm pivot pin and the torque arm bolt at the bottom before you go any further. If they are stuck in (and a lot are, and yours looks like it going to be) you're going to need to work on the plate and you don't want to do that after you've been detailing it.
I've asked max if he can make me a stainless steel torque arm bolt as pictured in your pic, just in case you damage it. They ain't available anywhere so be careful.
The brake is actually missing a small section on the edge, near the rivets.
On closer inspection this morning innit that chuffed with it, it looks like it’s been sandblasted or hit with a chain so going to start again on it tomorrow. Got things to do today. Another 4 hours I won’t get back
Bloody hate this job, messy, boring and noisey
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Post by: Oddjob on November 08, 2022, 01:15:20 PM
Some great tips Ken. Can you recommend some products for buffing the small crooks and crannies? I’ve seen a few products on Amazon?
Buy something like these
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363959884129
You could do with some larger discs like what come in the Dremel kit but bonded to the mandrel not screwed on like the Dremel ones, those are virtually useless but for a quick tickle up they are ok.
Post by: Oddjob on November 08, 2022, 01:25:42 PM
Black??? Dark Grey???Well the kit I put up for 7.99 or so has dark grey, dark blue, dark green, dark brown/red, light green, light grey, purple, white in.
No idea what you're referring to Roo. There are no dark grey abrasive discs, dark green as you say is quite abrasive, it has it's uses and I use that colour a LOT. However it can really scrub up the surface. If you got that to shine with a purple you're doing well young grasshopper.
Done a decent job of it Roo, it should shine up nice, the better the surface the quicker it shines up and the better it looks, it's all in the prep, get that right and the rest just falls into place. At this rate I'm going to have some competition.
Looking at Teds pic, not sure what he's used, marked the surface and it looks like a wire wheel with the swirl marks. Word of advice Ted, remove the brake arm pivot pin and the torque arm bolt at the bottom before you go any further. If they are stuck in (and a lot are, and yours looks like it going to be) you're going to need to work on the plate and you don't want to do that after you've been detailing it.
I've asked max if he can make me a stainless steel torque arm bolt as pictured in your pic, just in case you damage it. They ain't available anywhere so be careful.
The brake is actually missing a small section on the edge, near the rivets.
On closer inspection this morning innit that chuffed with it, it looks like it’s been sandblasted or hit with a chain so going to start again on it tomorrow. Got things to do today. Another 4 hours I won’t get back
Bloody hate this job, messy, boring and noisey
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You must be colour blind Roo. The kit was made by Wobekuy and if you look at the pics you can see they've actually listed a pic where the brushes are shown in grade order, starting with dark green at the top, the 4th one down I presume you mean is grey but to me it's more of a light blue and isn't that abrasive. Unless of course you bought a kit from somewhere else and they've changed the colours but generally everyone else seems to keep to the dark green as being the most abrasive and the same colours in their kits.
No idea where this black you keep referring to comes from unless of course that's also in the kit you bought. I know I linked you to the Wobekuy kit though when I recommended them so I thought you'd bought that kit.
Try polishing a small area, you can get too carried away trying to get it really smooth and then find the buffing compound will get rid of a lot of stuff. If it doesn't really shine within a few minutes go back onto the brushes.
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 08, 2022, 01:59:22 PM
6 of each Ken.
Not even looking at it today. Had enough of that chapter for at least 24hrs!
I do think my bench grinder isn’t fast enough though to get a decent finish. I may have to go back to the abranet and elbow at this rate. I’ll keep at it but out tonight for her birthday so don’t want to get blathered and turn up with black hands
This is what I got in the kit…..
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221108/fd3b9e93910f22208588a7916f7a1732.jpg)
Multiples of, obviously…..
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Post by: Oddjob on November 08, 2022, 04:53:12 PM
I'll be doing some more later tonight after picking up the missus from work. I've got a stack of stuff to take to the chromers for de-chroming, mainly alloy bits like float bowls and carb tops. Also got a couple of bits for chroming after de-pitting them etc and I've got stacks of de-chromed pieces that need attention so they can be chromed afterwards, including your favourite the 550F2 chain guard, even though I've got a NOS one I prefer to see if I can refurbish a decent one first, I can then sell on the NOS one, plus I find the chrome is better on UK chromers work, shine is deeper.
Got to make myself a new work bench later this week, need decent weather though for my chop saw, the sawdust it creates means it's all over the garage if I do it inside. Then I'm moving my roll cab tool chest to closer to the new bench, after that I can finally set up my zinc/nickel plating kit as I should have more space.
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 08, 2022, 05:11:28 PM
I'm slowly gathering a tub of stuff to plate after I've finished the 'brake plate from hell'. It's a sod to get flat and when youre there you get two stages down the line and something else crops up..........the sod! It's quite heavily stained too, it appears, even after going back to 180 in some places. I'll get there but after deciding to do this I'm sending the hub out, sod that.Lifes too short ;D
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 08, 2022, 05:36:26 PM
Quote from: Laverdaroo
I'm sending the hub out, sod that.Lifes too short ;D
[/quote
I'm sending the hub out, sod that.Lifes too short ;D
[/quote
Roo you were doing so well after ONLY 4 hours what's occuring?
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 08, 2022, 06:28:38 PM
need a change as I'm getting 'snow blind' and hopefully picking p the re polished clutch cover tomorrow afternoon so it's back to engine fiddling tomorrow and de dust stuff. Theres a bit of fluff flying about and it really likes assembly lube. Even f you do have apolyester sheet over with a bungee!.......it appears so. :o >:(
Not binning it, just having a breather to get a few wins in inbetween the onslaught. Keeps you going 8)
Post by: Oddjob on November 08, 2022, 07:03:34 PM
Wait until you get a hard one to do, you'll soon lose the will to live then. I've just done 4 float bowls which still had bits of nickel plate attached even after being de-chromed, each one took me around 5 hours to do and that was just getting the nickel off which had to be sanded and sanded and sanded until it went. Talk about hard, at one point even I was thinking of just throwing one of them away. Best thing to do then is walk away, leave it for a bit and come back to it. I've done 2 brake plates and one I gave up on it was so bad, decided to have it powder coated instead to hide all the pin prick holes. Spend at least 30 hours on one of them, that's hard work.
You don't know you're born young fella me lad ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Post by: Johnny4428 on November 08, 2022, 07:41:24 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 08, 2022, 11:28:12 PM
I wouldn't mind Roo but that brake plate looked to one of the easiest I've ever seen to polish, very few marks, not badly stained and no big dents etc.
Wait until you get a hard one to do, you'll soon lose the will to live then. I've just done 4 float bowls which still had bits of nickel plate attached even after being de-chromed, each one took me around 5 hours to do and that was just getting the nickel off which had to be sanded and sanded and sanded until it went. Talk about hard, at one point even I was thinking of just throwing one of them away. Best thing to do then is walk away, leave it for a bit and come back to it. I've done 2 brake plates and one I gave up on it was so bad, decided to have it powder coated instead to hide all the pin prick holes. Spend at least 30 hours on one of them, that's hard work.
You must be bloody joking, it has to be right for two main reasons...
1) Iwant it right but bloody Nora!
2) I'mnot havin it pulled apart by you on here giving me stickfor doing a shit job ;D ;D ;D
The more I polish,sand, flat off, the more it looks like its been shot peened. Very frustrating! ;D
You don't know you're born young fella me lad ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 08, 2022, 11:56:06 PM
Post by: Matt_Harrington on November 09, 2022, 08:53:42 AM
Just think I need more speed on the wheel Ken, asmentioned, my bench grinder with felt wneel on isnt really cutting the mustard.Roo, When I polish ally castings etc, I tend to start off with one of these (4 ply x 6"):
[attachimg=1]
Its flexible and gets into most nooks and crannies. The fines ones get rid of scratches and oxidation etc leaving a decent finish for polishing.
Gouges etc need the coarser wheel to start off with.
I also believe you can get larger versions of those tiny abrasive wheels as above but have not tried them yet.
The cloth wheels are also great at light rust removal etc.
Matt
Post by: Sesman on November 09, 2022, 09:11:28 AM
Post by: Matt_Harrington on November 09, 2022, 09:29:06 AM
Here is one example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125377926786?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338703918&toolid=20006&var=426392177624&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1ejGfgvdbT_6Q6HFLeEA4IQ43%26customid%3Ds%253AGS%253Bgc%253ACjwKCAiAvK2bBhB8EiwAZUbP1KSxFVW3ZX0HEbha8XihHkncfslpJfLpyKmGBqLp9dXzQtJjV2-tBBoC95sQAvD_BwE%253Bpt%253A1%253Bchoc%253A2&customid=s%3AGS%3Bgc%3ACjwKCAiAvK2bBhB8EiwAZUbP1KSxFVW3ZX0HEbha8XihHkncfslpJfLpyKmGBqLp9dXzQtJjV2-tBBoC95sQAvD_BwE%3Bpt%3A1%3Bchoc%3A1 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125377926786?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338703918&toolid=20006&var=426392177624&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1ejGfgvdbT_6Q6HFLeEA4IQ43%26customid%3Ds%253AGS%253Bgc%253ACjwKCAiAvK2bBhB8EiwAZUbP1KSxFVW3ZX0HEbha8XihHkncfslpJfLpyKmGBqLp9dXzQtJjV2-tBBoC95sQAvD_BwE%253Bpt%253A1%253Bchoc%253A2&customid=s%3AGS%3Bgc%3ACjwKCAiAvK2bBhB8EiwAZUbP1KSxFVW3ZX0HEbha8XihHkncfslpJfLpyKmGBqLp9dXzQtJjV2-tBBoC95sQAvD_BwE%3Bpt%3A1%3Bchoc%3A1)
(Never dealt with them etc etc...)
Matt
Post by: SteveW on November 09, 2022, 10:02:09 AM
https://www.weldequip.com/polishing-set-115mm.htm
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 09, 2022, 10:35:34 AM
Post by: Oddjob on November 09, 2022, 02:18:25 PM
This is what I tried, https://bolgers.co.uk/collections/buffing-polishing/products/satin-finish-abrasive-wheel-200mm. It's less than 4" now after just one session.
Roo, it's not really speed it's power. I had good results with a 370w grinder, the 650w I now use is a lot better. Don't press on hard, try letting the soap do the work, if the soap is hard enough it will cut through quite quickly, I only tend to use pressure when I spot a bad area. Don't expect a good finish within a few minutes, it can take a while to get a good finish, the rougher the surface to start with the longer it takes, the soap has to cut down all those micro ridges in the metal, this takes time. Keep at it, it will get better. I'm not sure what you're doing wrong, maybe you're expecting more than is possible, I've been doing this for some time now and I can say the experience means I know what to expect, sometimes even I get a little despondent as some metal for some reason doesn't want to play ball, the answer is to keep at it, don't give up. Water is soft yet it can cut through rock easily given enough time, that's all you need, not water you nutter, time.
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 09, 2022, 03:38:25 PM
It just seems that the more you tale away the more appears! Anyway, I'll keep going......
Just been to the chromers again to pick up the re-worked clutch cover and the head light ears. The ears are a bit better but the clutch cover has come back not flattedoff, not cleaned and with ripples in the metal stillsonot that impressed at all. If thisis what they do for a living, they need a new job .
I dont normally name drop if it's crap service but if you find that your only choice of polisher is Taylor's in Western, dont bother. They looked at me like I'd just made them eat dog crap when I asked them why, for the second time, have they not done what they said and they said they didnt have time, simple as that! When asked I was told old metal and dont have the time to dress it. They were only supposed to polish it and they haven't even done that very well!
I'd previously left my exhast there to get fettled and rechromed but took them back today, they're not laying a finger on those, too risky and I dont like getting dissapointed!
So, I'm open to suggestion on these. They are in reasonable nick and look great from the front, its when you look at the top of the headers at the rear, they are a bit scabby and need work.................Whadda ya reckon as first point of call? My pal blasted em for me and I'm left with this. Although a bit shaggedout, I think they're do-able but I have no idea with chrome,........ as can be witnessed.
There's plenty of metal on them just less in the manky areas, is it possible to weld filler metal on to re flat down prior to chroming? If not what options do you think might be available to me on these?
Whatever happens, it ;looks like I will be the mug flatting themoff but not sure of whats actually achievable. I see all these old bikes with beautiful chromed exhasts and having never done a set before, wonder how they come out so good? I apprciate that you need the best you can source to start and that's what I thought I had for the money I had budgeted for the pipes but it looks like Im gioing to be paying a fortune for this set in the end!
Any advice and help gratefully recieved.
I'll bob some shots up when ive taken a couple.
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 09, 2022, 03:40:40 PM
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Post by: Laverdaroo on November 09, 2022, 03:40:59 PM
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Post by: Laverdaroo on November 09, 2022, 03:41:34 PM
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Post by: Sesman on November 09, 2022, 04:07:59 PM
Post by: mickwinf on November 09, 2022, 05:04:19 PM
Post by: mickwinf on November 09, 2022, 05:05:47 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 09, 2022, 05:14:07 PM
I'm not even sure if you can split these pipes, I suspect not but even so, I think its going to be eons with wet and dry belts and poking about getting black with theseisnt it. The piccie is a bit duff unless you zoom in. I'll take another of the really crap bits ;D
By the way this thread is costing me a fortune buying all these products.........goooood, youre doing it right then! ;D
It would'nt be fun if it wasnt dear ;D ;D ;D :-[
Post by: Oddjob on November 09, 2022, 06:03:32 PM
Anyway, I took over and got them reasonable, did a small area with the polisher and it didn't turn out great so back to the Dremel again. This time however I was through with mucking about and being gentle with it, out came the 80 grade flap wheels, not a bad choice as it happens as a lot of the rail is flat with just chamfered edges between the 2 flat parts. These really made a big difference, the surface was flatter than with the brushes, which is a problem with them, and I did the top loop and one side and then went over them to remove sanding marks with a red disc until I was happy with them. The other side I hadn't touched until today, this I decided to do differently. I did the first flat with the normal 80 flap wheel but then I got my secret weapon out, some finer flaps wheels I'd bought some months ago but never really used, 3 grades, 180, 240 and 320, did the rail with the 180 first, just did a small area to see how it would come out, oh my what a difference, it went flat, just a few sanding marks left, onto the 240, went flatter still and started to shine, always a good sign, finally the 320, well it looks awesome, really smooth, quite shiny like a first polish. I can't wait to do the rest of that rail and see how it comes out, I'm impressed.
However.
There is a snag, the flap wheels don't fit the Dremel, they weren't made for the Dremel, the shaft they fit onto is too thick for the Dremel. So I'd bought them to see if I could adapt them and even without a lathe I figured out how to do it, not great but it works.
I'll post some pics when the side rail is done and also a link to the new flap wheels, I think they'd be ideal for the brake plate Roo as it's flat and big so no tricky little intricate areas to negotiate.
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 09, 2022, 06:17:23 PM
Post by: Oddjob on November 09, 2022, 07:58:25 PM
The good news is that the flap wheels are that dear, £2.65 each, just noticed they do a 40, 60, 80, 120, 180, 240 and 320 and they all use the same threaded stem. I'm going to try a 40, 60 and 120 to see how they perform, the rough ones could come in handy when the parts really bad.
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 09, 2022, 08:32:10 PM
Post by: Oddjob on November 09, 2022, 11:49:39 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 10, 2022, 12:43:13 AM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 10, 2022, 04:53:21 PM
Starting to loose the will to carry on - in some light it looks worse.
.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52490080972_4407e30565_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2nYnom5)after another hour (https://flic.kr/p/2nYnom5) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: Oddjob on November 10, 2022, 05:51:49 PM
I told you that bolt would be stuck didn't I? Gotta get it out now Ted before you go any further, got Max making some out of stainless so even if you ruin it getting it out it's not the end of the world.
Seriously, keep at it, I did say you'd be asking yourself what you had started and how you wished you hadn't, again and again. That's the inexperience talking, I went through it, Roos going through it and so will everyone else, I'd be pleased with that, sure there are some rough patches but you just need to use finer and finer brushes, trim the edge down with a flap wheel where it's broken, give it a shape, round the edges off so it looks like it should be like that.
I'd say another 3-4 hours and that will be fine.
Get some wire brushes for the Dremel, NOT brass, waste of time brass brushes, get forward facing wire brushes, metal ones, get into the centre of those rivets and get all that rust and corrosion out, get into the corners where the flange starts, smooth out those scraggy bits you can see.
It's coming on Ted, you may have the knack ;D ;D
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 10, 2022, 06:23:51 PM
The brake steady arm bolt is well stuck - tried to press it out in the vice jaws by using a socket that just goes over the threads (9mm) and a large one on the other side that clears where it should emerge - no joy.
Currently giving it some releasing fluid again. Not tried heat yet.
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 10, 2022, 07:23:01 PM
Just stick with it buddy, all of a sudden it willbecome less than a waste of time, I promise..............Ken said!
Least you'll be all 'Buff' for Wendy with those super toned arms and newly found, vice like grip ;)
Post by: Nurse Julie on November 10, 2022, 07:41:39 PM
[attachimg=1]
[attachimg=2]
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 10, 2022, 07:51:25 PM
That back plate, although from Gary so not part of the original scrap I started on, still looked like it had been shot peened before I started. It still looks shot peened.............just flat and shot peened ;D
In my defense, I'm crap at it, rather somebody else do it, only an antique bench grinder and a rapidly forming OCD complex sofinding it very hard.........Oh and I detest it, did I mention that bit? But stuck with nowt to do so gritting my teeth and getting on with it.. ;) ;D
Besides is southern blues night on Planet Rock so Ive got til midnight to fiddle about as the LHG is working at the pub tonight ;D
Didnt you want your cam caps flat then, just shiny? ;) :D
Post by: Nurse Julie on November 10, 2022, 07:56:06 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 10, 2022, 08:04:10 PM
You must be bloody bored! I'd rather dance barefoot on broken glass than do this;D ;D
I'm just revving myself up to go out there shortly....I'm being given 'stink-eye' by the dog as she knows shes coming with me ;D ;D
Post by: Sesman on November 10, 2022, 08:12:32 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 10, 2022, 08:13:12 PM
I cant believe with the current price of electricity, that so much time is being spent on polishing. I am a novice polisher, I've done a few big bits over the years for Graham, under his guidance and I'm sure it never took so many hours. At that rate, it would cost £500 to get a professional polisher to do a brake plate at that hourly rate 😂😂😂😂I've just done half of this end cap, it took me less than 2 minutes and it hasn't had a final polish yet. This was just using a satin mop and a stage 2 soft mop, with no cutting back.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Okay Julie what is a Satin Mop?
What is a Stage 2 mop?
Post by: Sesman on November 10, 2022, 08:13:57 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 10, 2022, 08:15:12 PM
Post by: Sesman on November 10, 2022, 08:17:25 PM
Post by: Oddjob on November 10, 2022, 08:20:24 PM
I've been using light blue then for the last half an hour white.
The brake steady arm bolt is well stuck - tried to press it out in the vice jaws by using a socket that just goes over the threads (9mm) and a large one on the other side that clears where it should emerge - no joy.
Currently giving it some releasing fluid again. Not tried heat yet.
First off Ted, light blue is too fine. You can spend all day using it and it won't make much difference TBH. What did you use to get it to that state?
Try heat Ted, it's your best friend.
Post by: Nurse Julie on November 10, 2022, 08:31:54 PM
No idea Ted. Its what's written on the big boxes of polishing supplies I buy from The Polishing Shop.I cant believe with the current price of electricity, that so much time is being spent on polishing. I am a novice polisher, I've done a few big bits over the years for Graham, under his guidance and I'm sure it never took so many hours. At that rate, it would cost £500 to get a professional polisher to do a brake plate at that hourly rate 😂😂😂😂I've just done half of this end cap, it took me less than 2 minutes and it hasn't had a final polish yet. This was just using a satin mop and a stage 2 soft mop, with no cutting back.
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
Okay Julie what is a Satin Mop?
What is a Stage 2 mop?
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 10, 2022, 08:34:08 PM
Ahem..
BAZINGA ;D ;D
Post by: Oddjob on November 10, 2022, 08:35:08 PM
I cant believe with the current price of electricity, that so much time is being spent on polishing.
A Dremel, even the most powerful Dremel is less than 200W, that means you can use it for 5 hours and you'll use 1 unit of electricity, that's around 16p approx. Hardly going to break the bank.
If you polish just using polishing compound and a polishing machine you'll just end up with a nice shiny piece that will look awful very very quickly as you've just sealed in all the contaminants hiding under the surface, these rise to the surface within weeks and the piece looks like it has leprosy. You can actually see them in your pic, those lighter grey areas. You also won't get rid of the gouges or scratches.
Post by: Nurse Julie on November 10, 2022, 08:39:54 PM
Yes Ken, I did say I didn't flatten it off. I was waiting to give Graham a hand with something in the workshop and just started faffing on the wheel. I was just hoping to show to others what a professional polishing kit can achieve in less than a minute.I cant believe with the current price of electricity, that so much time is being spent on polishing.
A Dremel, even the most powerful Dremel is less than 200W, that means you can use it for 5 hours and you'll use 1 unit of electricity, that's around 16p approx. Hardly going to break the bank.
If you polish just using polishing compound and a polishing machine you'll just end up with a nice shiny piece that will look awful very very quickly as you've just sealed in all the contaminants hiding under the surface, these rise to the surface within weeks and the piece looks like it has leprosy. You can actually see them in your pic, those lighter grey areas. You also won't get rid of the gouges or scratches.
Post by: Sesman on November 10, 2022, 08:48:17 PM
Post by: Oddjob on November 10, 2022, 08:55:45 PM
Post by: Sesman on November 10, 2022, 08:57:56 PM
Post by: Oddjob on November 10, 2022, 09:03:00 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 10, 2022, 09:10:20 PM
Currently soaking in Evaporust.
Post by: Sesman on November 10, 2022, 09:19:09 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 11, 2022, 12:05:38 AM
Nice one Ted, keep on, keeping on ;)
Post by: mickwinf on November 12, 2022, 03:46:46 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 12, 2022, 03:49:55 PM
Thatss two out of the threee of us tha thave given up, Imgoing in for round 4 this afternoon, must try harder! ;D 8)
Post by: Oddjob on November 12, 2022, 05:40:21 PM
Maybe you should have started with easier pieces, brake plates are hard to do, loads of stone chips etc, sprocket covers are not easy either. Clutch covers are better because they are protected by the engine so get less damage. Try a camshaft end cap and practice on that. Or a dipstick.
Post by: Oddjob on November 18, 2022, 05:54:58 PM
How bad is a casing BEFORE you think it's beyond salvage?
I've seen some bad ones, really bad TBH, seen some on Ebay that I thought were beyond saving but lets be honest, parts are becoming harder to find. NOS parts are starting to dry up and casings when they do appear NOS are very expensive and sometimes even they show damage that detracts from the look. I bought a NOS casing last week and the seller had to reduce the price because of the lacquer peeling off, it didn't look nice TBH but at half the listed price and the fact I was going to polish it anyway I bought it.
Casings usually don't get stored well, thrown in a bucket or an old box and just left for years and years. Some, like my old cases had been chromed and you'd be forgiven for thinking they'd be good as they've already been polished before the chrome was applied but not a bit of it. If the chrome has peeled and then left the damage to the alloy underneath can be severe.
I recently decided to do a CB550F clutch cover, I have 4-5 of them so I went to the box they hide in and just pulled one out, completely at random, I thought doing it that way would avoid any suggestion of picking the best one etc. It was upside down in the box, I'd washed it in petrol and the inside was facing me, looks ok, nice and clean inside, yep that'll do. Jesus what a bad choice, worse case I'd ever seen except for the one I sanded right through but that was before I realised just how bad they can get. If yours has a sort of rash on the surface, like a bad skin condition, black marks all over it or worse some sort of fur growing then you're in for a BAD time trying to polish that baby.
The 550 case is about 50% done and coming on, hours and hours still to be spent on that one but I also had a rotor casing off a 500. Finding one these days without gravel rash where it's gone down the road is hard, this was my old one, been chromed, in fact here's a pic of it as the bike was being restored.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SxffhxMv/scan0003-1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
I'd replaced it when the chrome started to peel after a winter using the bike and road salt etc. It wasn't a pretty sight but it was an undamaged case so worth keeping I reckoned.
Had the chrome removed and that revealed all the damage done. Believe me, this case ain't pretty, yet.
So after sitting in a box for a year or so I finally decided to have a go and salvage it. I used my new secret weapons, if they can get this case back to acceptable then they can do any case. I won't bore you with loads of pics as TBH I didn't bother taking any at first, I really thought this was heading for the bin. However it's really coming on so here's a sneak preview.
This is the sort of damage I mean, really deep pits, and this is after working on these areas for some time.
(https://i.postimg.cc/5tZB5Qdj/IMG-2949.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/5HSQb0tM)
(https://i.postimg.cc/y6TRxbdD/IMG-2954.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/XXpqDx9W)
(https://i.postimg.cc/wjnynKWG/IMG-2956.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/87BzrYgR)
Still working on those but they are starting to disappear.
However this post is about the top section of the rotor cover, the bit everyone sees first, the casing has been sanded and this has revealed the damage, top surface usually gets away with a lot but not this time.
Before.
(https://i.postimg.cc/76fRh216/IMG-2950.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qhHwZg5V)
(https://i.postimg.cc/13sY6T0b/IMG-2951.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/kBYcPTpy)
Now professional polishers show pics of damage on their websites BUT they don't tend to show after shots, just carefully posed pics of complete casings without showing where they've completely failed to fix anything, these shots IMO are excuses, here's what you gave us to start with, of course we are not magicians so don't expect a great finish everywhere. Not, this is the damage and look how good we are, it's all gone away.
So this time I thought, lets show before and after pics.
AFTER. 2.5 hours of work on what's essentially an 8 x 1.5 inch piece of alloy. NOT polished, not been anywhere near the polishing machine, just used my new secret weapons and then finished off with some of my more normal brushes, sanded down to 1000 grit.
(https://i.postimg.cc/5tt7KCR3/IMG-2952.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/YvJzhhkG)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BnzHsPvN/IMG-2953.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/xXKc3CMb)
Now I'm no different from most members on here, if I can do this then so can you, I'm not gifted, I don't have expensive machinery, I do have patience and time and some basic tools, this means you can do the same.
Next is to finish the case, if that's possible and then polish it. I reckon I can get that back to roughly the same condition as the very first pic where it was chromed. After that, I'll probably throw if in a box for a few more years as I already have a decent rotor cover ;D ;D
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 18, 2022, 11:11:08 PM
;) :D
Post by: Sesman on November 19, 2022, 07:00:09 AM
Post by: Johnny4428 on November 19, 2022, 09:31:51 AM
Post by: Oddjob on November 19, 2022, 02:40:07 PM
I'll let you know once this case is finished and polished what they are, where to buy them, how to adapt them etc. Things like brake plates will be great with them, the flatter the part the better these are IMO. I need to see the polished article in my hand to say yes to them, hope that makes sense, as the sort of resident guru on this I'd feel bad saying buy these only for them to not work out and I've wasted your money.
Johnny, I think you may be starting to polish too soon, work more on the surface, that surface looks a little rough due to the camera but feel it by hand and it's like touching velvet. The buffing soap is good stuff but it's not magic, it will give you a false impression as to how good it is, it looks ok but it won't last as it's just like a coating and underneath is still the same old stuff and it soon comes back to the surface. It's like the difference between a satin finish and a mirror finish, both are polished but only one is really polished.
If you check out this site, it grades the soap on how abrasive they are. https://bolgers.co.uk/collections/buffing-polishing
Grey is the most, yellow/beige is the least IIRC, I use grey, then white as by that time the surface is like glass but does have swirls etc, after white I do the final polish with pink. It's also the choice of mop that's important, grey with a 8" felt, that combination will give you a shine very quickly, then white with a close stitched cotton mop then pink with a loose leaf cotton mop. So it goes, very hard, medium, soft. I'm going to experiment with using white with a felt mop and see if that improves the finish as I'm not totally happy with some of the marks still left. If using grey with felt don't press on too hard, it's so aggressive you can easily dig a trench.
Post by: Sesman on November 19, 2022, 03:40:07 PM
Post by: Oddjob on November 19, 2022, 07:14:33 PM
Final few sandings tomorrow and then maybe polish it. It's looking pretty good, lovely and flat.
Post by: Johnny4428 on November 19, 2022, 08:33:20 PM
Post by: Oddjob on November 20, 2022, 08:46:59 PM
Ready for polishing. Not sure when I'll have a day or 2 of polishing, need the weather and to feel in the mood. Dirty job, look like a coal miner afterwards..
Front. The only place any pits are left is about 9.47 and 11.55. Both under the cover so not important.
(https://i.postimg.cc/m2FTj3tm/IMG-2958.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BX4WQK5F)
Sides. Tried to do the same angles as the original pic so you can compare between the damage and the finished article.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sX636wYN/IMG-2957.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r046zGY1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/7Z8wWCzw/IMG-2959.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/D8g9Ww5M)
(https://i.postimg.cc/qR5dXg0f/IMG-2960.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/8JM3Tpjw)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mhxfJqt8/IMG-2961.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/N2xzrd8H)
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 21, 2022, 12:07:58 AM
Post by: Oddjob on November 23, 2022, 03:38:01 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 23, 2022, 03:55:43 PM
I cant believe with the current price of electricity, that so much time is being spent on polishing.
A Dremel, even the most powerful Dremel is less than 200W, that means you can use it for 5 hours and you'll use 1 unit of electricity, that's around 16p approx. Hardly going to break the bank.
A bit last year on the cost at the moment its nearer 29p /kwh on flexible tarrrif still not that expensive though..
I'm currently in Hibernation mode with the polishing mullarky.
Post by: Oddjob on November 23, 2022, 05:14:10 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 23, 2022, 08:32:09 PM
Mines locked at 16p till next year.
So I'm subsidising you Ken........bu**er.
Post by: Oddjob on November 23, 2022, 11:12:52 PM
Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on November 24, 2022, 07:01:13 AM
Plus no gas in my house at all, totally electric.
There was a time when that was a definite downer.
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Post by: Oddjob on November 24, 2022, 01:52:46 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 29, 2022, 11:27:42 AM
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Post by: Sesman on November 29, 2022, 12:56:28 PM
Post by: Oddjob on November 29, 2022, 01:46:27 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 29, 2022, 02:02:44 PM
How are the club feet Phil?
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Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on November 29, 2022, 02:05:53 PM
So spill the beans how many hours at £1 an hour did it cost?
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 29, 2022, 02:09:12 PM
Still rather go snorkelling in the sea oit at Glastonbury than do any more though, dunno how Ken does it every week. It would kill me
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Post by: Oddjob on November 29, 2022, 02:31:38 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 29, 2022, 02:56:49 PM
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Post by: paul G on November 29, 2022, 03:24:26 PM
Post by: Matt_Harrington on November 29, 2022, 04:52:43 PM
Matt
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 29, 2022, 07:14:26 PM
Nathan cant do the pipeds as heshaving difficulty with the material chipping when itsin the abrasive media whilst polishing so hes declined gracfully. Thats why I use him, he doesnt blow smoke up yer rear end and just say yes to everything, if he cant ,he cant, and i ;)f he camn he does, ace fella!
Post by: Johnny4428 on November 29, 2022, 09:40:53 PM
[/quote]
What no sleep? 🥱🥱🥱 couldn’t do that guys
Post by: Oddjob on November 29, 2022, 11:49:32 PM
Post by: Bryanj on November 29, 2022, 11:56:06 PM
Post by: Oddjob on November 30, 2022, 12:10:23 AM
Post by: Oddjob on November 30, 2022, 12:19:20 AM
I find the worst thing is looking like a coal miner after a 12 shift at the face :(
I have a joke about something like that.
And this is not the joke but I was telling it at work one day to a manager, I'd warned him from the outset that he may think it was racist but I assured him it wasn't. Got halfway through and he yelled at me "Tell me one more word and I'll suspend you" I kid you not. Now I thought he was joking so I carried on after giving him a funny look, he then said "That's it, I'm serious, one more word and you're suspended". He then stormed off. There was a female manager by the side of him and I looked at her and said, it's not racist I swear and to prove it I'll tell you the rest of it. At the end she agreed it wasn't racist, the other manager (a bloke I may add) came back, I told him she'd agreed it wasn't racist but he said and I kid you not. "If I think it's racist, then it's racist and that's that".
I replied "Everyone thought the earth was flat many years ago and it turned out not to be, so you can think what you like, it doesn't make you right"
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 30, 2022, 08:43:16 AM
Have a FAT ‘shut up yer pillock’ ……. With a cherry. I bet that didn’t make you smerk Ken
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Post by: AshimotoK0 on November 30, 2022, 09:19:15 AM
We use them at work and they give me them when worn down a bit and they are magic for initial polishing plus they last absolutely ages and don't make loads of mess. I think they are quite expensive though. I seem to remember a set of coarse/fine replacement wheels cost as much as the grinder/polisher you buy as a 'deburring station' that comes with them as part of the 'kit'
Post by: Matt_Harrington on November 30, 2022, 10:22:45 AM
Dont know Matt, didnt know I had to........whats the best for y9ur buckand finish etc?
Nathan cant do the pipeds as heshaving difficulty with the material chipping when itsin the abrasive media whilst polishing so hes declined gracfully. Thats why I use him, he doesnt blow smoke up yer rear end and just say yes to everything, if he cant ,he cant, and i ;)f he camn he does, ace fella!
Do you mean removing the old chrome?
Matt
PS I use microcrystalline wax on polished surfaces - it helps
Post by: Johnny4428 on November 30, 2022, 11:37:39 AM
I find the worst thing is looking like a coal miner after a 12 shift at the face :(
I have a joke about something like that.
And this is not the joke but I was telling it at work one day to a manager, I'd warned him from the outset that he may think it was racist but I assured him it wasn't. Got halfway through and he yelled at me "Tell me one more word and I'll suspend you" I kid you not. Now I thought he was joking so I carried on after giving him a funny look, he then said "That's it, I'm serious, one more word and you're suspended". He then stormed off. There was a female manager by the side of him and I looked at her and said, it's not racist I swear and to prove it I'll tell you the rest of it. At the end she agreed it wasn't racist, the other manager (a bloke I may add) came back, I told him she'd agreed it wasn't racist but he said and I kid you not. "If I think it's racist, then it's racist and that's that".
I replied "Everyone thought the earth was flat many years ago and it turned out not to be, so you can think what you like, it doesn't make you right"
🤭🤭😂
Post by: Oddjob on November 30, 2022, 02:53:12 PM
Ash, no never tried them, never even heard of them TBH, are they meant for a bench grinder?
Roo, I've used Carnuba Wax on some of my polished surfaces, it can help keep them clean and makes them easier to clean when they get dirty. Depends where the surface is located though, if it has heat going through it I don't bother.
Post by: Laverdaroo on November 30, 2022, 07:25:41 PM
Do you bob it on with a terry toweling polish rag I take it?
Had you already done those fork bottoms for me before you sent them down Ken or are they still to do? There's a fair bit of shiny on this and on the 400 so I better invest I think.
Post by: Oddjob on November 30, 2022, 10:45:45 PM
Post by: AshimotoK0 on December 01, 2022, 01:20:25 PM
Ash, no never tried them, never even heard of them TBH, are they meant for a bench grinder?
Yes on a bench grinder .. this is the one in workshop where I work 1 day/week now. But I put the part-worn wheels on an extended shaft, basically on the same bench grinder I have in my workshop at home.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 01, 2022, 01:39:41 PM
Cheers mate, I think I've read something on that Carnuba before but it hadn't clicked. I shall peruse the world wide web for info and have a read. Ta. ;)Then there are Ceramic Waxes Roo for long life.
Do you bob it on with a terry toweling polish rag I take it?
Had you already done those fork bottoms for me before you sent them down Ken or are they still to do? There's a fair bit of shiny on this and on the 400 so I better invest I think.
Post by: Oddjob on December 01, 2022, 03:04:50 PM
Post by: AshimotoK0 on December 01, 2022, 04:31:22 PM
Approx £100 a wheel for those 3m wheels Ash. Bit expensive if I don't like them.
I will try and make a video for you to assess Ken. I don't know why they are so expensive. I don't remember the machine with 2 wheels being mega dear.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 22, 2022, 11:14:38 PM
You know when it's done as the oil residue ends up clear. Final wipe off reveals the mirror effect.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 30, 2022, 07:11:24 PM
Total time is now around 5 hours to do both legs - not to Ken's standard but an improvement from when I started. Not finished yet but it's getting better.
..(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52595738482_8357b90843_o.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2o8GUDh)500 fork legs (https://flic.kr/p/2o8GUDh) by Macabe Thiele (https://www.flickr.com/photos/187487200@N03/), on Flickr
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 31, 2022, 12:17:12 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on December 31, 2022, 12:34:30 PM
Post by: AshimotoK0 on December 31, 2022, 12:46:24 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on December 31, 2022, 12:49:27 PM
I did all of mine dry and came out pretty well, ……..if you don’t look too closely.
How come you use Jizer Ash, any particular reason for that over anything else?
Just curious……..
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Post by: AshimotoK0 on December 31, 2022, 01:09:08 PM
How come you use Jizer Ash, any particular reason for that over anything else?
Just curious……..
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Provides lubrication and degreasing at the same time . It was recommended by a well respected friend who has restored loads of bikes.
Post by: SteveD CB500K0 on December 31, 2022, 01:13:32 PM
I thought you were talking about Tizer.
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Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 31, 2022, 01:20:10 PM
Post by: Laverdaroo on December 31, 2022, 01:26:52 PM
Fantstic tip Ash, and after youve said that,akes perfect sense!
Top tip, cheers
How come you use Jizer Ash, any particular reason for that over anything else?
Just curious……..
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Provides lubrication and degreasing at the same time . It was recommended by a well respected friend who has restored loads of bikes.
Post by: AshimotoK0 on December 31, 2022, 01:48:07 PM
I thought Ash was being an influencer for Ann Summers products.🤫🤫🤫
That's KY ..good for yer rubbers.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 31, 2022, 02:59:36 PM
I thought Ash was being an influencer for Ann Summers products.🤫🤫🤫
That's KY ..good for yer rubbers.
Ah I remember it well now - all anecdotal history these days - I find Red Rubber Grease more useful now.
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 31, 2022, 03:21:20 PM
Post by: mickwinf on December 31, 2022, 03:30:40 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 31, 2022, 03:42:38 PM
just finished polishing my engine covers, fairly pleased with them, also made a start on a fork leg which is coming on nicely but after several hours get a bit fed up!
And the colour was ?
Post by: Oddjob on December 31, 2022, 04:15:40 PM
Post by: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on December 31, 2022, 09:02:24 PM
It was confusing as the site seemed to say white was finer?
Post by: Oddjob on December 31, 2022, 09:27:39 PM