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CB500/550 / Re: Relocating or alternative to ignition switch
« Last post by DomP on Today at 08:24:17 PM »
This is the 550F wiring diagram, the two browns connect pretty much immediately in the loom anyway so surely eliminating one or rejoining them will make no difference on a 4 wire switch?  Isn't it just the park position
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The Delkevic comes with its own rubber block for the side stand, the OEM rubber one won't fit.

Do you mean the side stand or the centre stand Julie?

The system comes with a square grommet fitted to number two silencer iirc.

There is also a loose large grommet in the Delkevic kit.
Sorry Ted, yes, The Delkevic comes fitted with the centre stand rubber fitted to the exhaust but there wasn't another rubber in the Delkevic kit. The side stand doesn't have any stop on the exhaust, it just butts up against the metal of the frame.

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The Delkevic comes with its own rubber block for the side stand, the OEM rubber one won't fit.

Do you mean the side stand or the centre stand Julie?

The system comes with a square grommet fitted to number two silencer iirc.

There is also a loose large grommet in the Delkevic kit.
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The Delkevic comes with its own rubber block for the side stand, the OEM rubber one won't fit.
Edit..... Centre stand, not side stand 🙄🙄🙄
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I had the same problem with my 4/4 set from silvers. It would clang on the pipe coming up.
Bit of a bodge,  but I stuck a tiny piece of 1/8" rubber against the stop.
Phil

Ah interesting I'm looking at a similar option. I did do a site search but could not find much. I'm looking at a similar option as the silencers sit nicely otherwise.

I can almost get two fingers between the frame and number one front pipe. The other side for number four is identical almost  two finger gap,  so I don't think the pipe is to blame.
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CB500/550 / Re: top end gasket set recomendations
« Last post by Robert W on Today at 06:41:02 PM »
I always used a light film of GE Silicone (pure Silcone caulk, not the paintable goop) on the head gasket and the O-rings for the oil passage. It was a poor design relying on the O-ring alone between the head and the cylinders. Why they didn't have a similar setup for the cylinder to crank case with the oil jet is a mystery. However I've got Yoshimura big bore kits with higher compression pistons in both my CB500's and they never leak at the cylinders or the oil passage. You have about a half hour before it starts to set too much so make sure you get the head on and torqued within that period. The silicone also makes for an easier cleanup the next time you change the gasket. Paint thinner or mineral spirits seems to slowly eat the film left behind.
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I had the same problem with my 4/4 set from silvers. It would clang on the pipe coming up.
Bit of a bodge,  but I stuck a tiny piece of 1/8" rubber against the stop.
Phil
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CB350/400 / Re: rotor removal tool. Also Gaskets
« Last post by McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on Today at 06:24:31 PM »
I would also add you can get corrosion in the output connection block as well as where it leaves the alternator housing.
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CB350/400 / Re: rotor removal tool. Also Gaskets
« Last post by Jan B on Today at 06:10:13 PM »
Did you check the ohm-readings on the 3 stator wires? That will tell you something. The regulator is more likely to fail...
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Thanks for that.👍
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