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Messages - petermigreen
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46
« on: October 09, 2018, 09:19:37 PM »
If I measure the red and yellow wire attached to the starter Solenoid it's 0v until I hit the button it goes 12v+ but nothing happens.
That proves the starter button is doing it's job. You could prove the solenoid by shorting across the two large terminals with a meaty screwdriver, if it doesn't turn the starter over then either the solenoid is duff or the starter is. If nothing happens right away pull away or you could do damage. You could prove the starter by putting a jump lead directly from the battery positive onto the the heavy cable that goes to the starter motor.
47
« on: October 09, 2018, 10:16:00 AM »
Yeh, I know some carp anglers, they’re all a bit weird
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48
« on: October 09, 2018, 10:10:48 AM »
Nice picture Julie.
Spent many an hour in Wainfleet fishing.
There used to be a butchers neer the river that used to sell the best Lincolnshire sausage 
What? You used sausages for fishing bait? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
49
« on: October 08, 2018, 04:58:12 PM »
Good progress, it's a great part of the restoration when you're putting it back together. centre and side stands (everyone knows the 5p method here, right?)
I just use one of these [ Guests cannot view attachments ] Peter
50
« on: October 07, 2018, 09:58:14 PM »
Well done David.
Nearly there!
Peter
51
« on: October 07, 2018, 09:56:33 PM »
Congratulations. Loving my 750 too. It is very difficult to find reasons to ride any of the others!
52
« on: October 04, 2018, 08:50:45 PM »
That’s a rider
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53
« on: October 03, 2018, 10:18:20 AM »
Oh I can’t ‘stand’ to watch any longer
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54
« on: October 02, 2018, 07:00:02 PM »
Does it matter that these fuses which you have mentioned are for 250v??
Good question although that is just the operating voltage that the fuse can withstand in operation. Technically speaking, fuses blow when they get hot and are rated as such and such an amperage depending on the heat that will blow the fuse for any given amperage. So that the thinner the fuse wire the less heat it can withstand and therefore less amps. Peter
55
« on: October 02, 2018, 06:56:06 PM »
You could try rolled up lead in the bar ends. I know that works for hand vibration. I think there may also be proprietary bar plugs you can buy in place of lead though have never seen them. Mirrors on my bikes all vibrate, some left, some right, some at 60, some at 80. I just keep looking straight ahead.
57
« on: October 01, 2018, 02:13:54 PM »
58
« on: September 30, 2018, 07:44:05 PM »
Wowzers! What a turn out.
59
« on: September 30, 2018, 06:29:12 PM »
In 2007ish I just cleaned the engine with paraffin to degrease it and then got rid of the oxidation with my Dremel/Brillo pads/bits and bobs, no primer, then painted it using US Automotive VHT Aluminium paint, the head, barrels, etc that were separate were baked in the oven. It's lasted well but needs a bit of work now.
Cheers
Dennis
I did my 500 head and barrels and baked in the oven. But I managed to support them in the oven in such a way that the liners slid out of the barrels  I had to turn them around and put them back in till they got hot enough and slid back in. DOH! Paint came out okay though. Peter
60
« on: September 30, 2018, 05:51:44 PM »
Technically yes.
However, what sort of environment will your lock be subject to, to collect sufficient dust and grit to affect the operation of it?
Or do you ride in the desert?
After I had a frame (RD200) blasted and powder coated, the steering lock was jammed solid with blasting media. aerosol white grease got it working again and it still works with no problems.
Just my experience.
Peter
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