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Messages - jcknapp
1
« on: June 21, 2012, 03:06:16 AM »
I used a paint called VHT Flame Proof Spraypaint. The temp range is 1300-2000 degrees F and 704-1093 degrees Celcius. It is designed for headers and high heat exhaust pipes. Here is a pic. Hope this helps.....
2
« on: June 19, 2012, 02:53:48 AM »
here ya go lester. cheers Notice (in black and white) the two egg shaped pieces of wood on the triple tree. I custom made them to cover the ground down old bar holders. Made of Padouk.
j
3
« on: June 19, 2012, 12:38:37 AM »
Hello all-
Well I have finally started and finishing up dialing my bike. Got 115's in the main and 40's in the pilot. So far so good except for the flat spot I am getting around high 2 and low 3. Anyone? Otherwise runs perfect. Rebuilt pretty much everything, replaced a bunch of junk and shed off alot of the weight. Also does anyone use high octane fuel in their cycles? I use regular now because I heard the low compression engines are not good for high octane fuel. Anyone else hear of this? Thanks and enjoy the pics.
J-
4
« on: June 10, 2012, 02:39:11 PM »
Also McMaster-Carr has any screw, any head, any size you want. They also come in different hardnesses, types of metal and fast shipping. In the U.S. but I order from there weekly and love them.
5
« on: June 10, 2012, 02:33:37 PM »
Hey all . Finished with the overhaul of the 1971 CB500 four. Came out beautiful. I got the carbs almost where I want them but may need to up the pilot jet a size. I have searched all over for the pilot jet but no luck. I have found a few sources for the pilot that is suppose to be in the carb but the length is about a mm or 2 too long. I talked to the guy who sells it and he is baffled as well. We took our digital calipers to the length and sure enough the length on the ones that are available are 1-2 mm too long. He also said that hes known guys who have dremmeled off to the correct length and got fine results. Has anyone had any experience with this? Or know a good source to buy Keihen jets?? Any help would be awesome. Also where should I post pics of the new build? Thanks guys and gals
Justin-
6
« on: June 10, 2012, 02:26:14 PM »
Is the nipple a newer one where you don't have to open the nipple? There are some newer nipples where you can bleed the brakes on your own which i actually have. I completely had to dismantle my front brake caliper unit. I examined it and it was pretty pitted. So I fought getting out the piston and seal. A bunch of nasty old rusty brake fluid and junk came out and I completely cleaned out the caliper unit, replaced the piston and seal and went to a braided cable with a new banjo bolt connection with a copper washer. I also replaced the master cylinder. Now to get brake fluid going through the line is pretty easy and also when you just bleed the brakes in general. If you don't have the nipple where you have to open and close the brake nipple then this is how you do it. You open the nipple quarter turn, squeeze the brake, close the nipple and repeat. you keep doing this till the air gets outa the line and no more air bubbles occur. You will know when this happens. As florence explained this is the way to do it. Also use the correct DOT 3 fluid and run a clear tube into a jar so you can see the air coming out. The toughest thing for me was to maintain a tight seal on the braided cable connection to the caliper. A copper washer did it good though. Hope this helps even though it was more or less said by others.
7
« on: May 21, 2012, 01:05:51 PM »
Ok makes sense now. Thanks.
Justin
8
« on: May 20, 2012, 05:45:23 PM »
100 per tank not miles. Haha. My mistake. So how do I know what fuel line coming out of tank is on or reserve? Left or right nipple coming down from petcock?
9
« on: May 19, 2012, 11:38:40 PM »
Ok cool. My question however was the on is for the larger portion of the tank is what I'm thinking. The reserve is the other side of the tank or is it the bottom of the tank. Just wondering if I got the lines mixed up. On my on position my mpg is only 50 per tank. Then I switch to reserve. My old mpg before I put velocity stacks on and rejetted was almost 100 mpg. So I was wondering if I was running the reserve when I got 50 mpg. Thx
Justin
10
« on: May 18, 2012, 05:36:38 PM »
Ok so I have a stock petcock on my 1971 cb500 four. It has r
Off , on and reserve. It has 2 lines coming out and going to the carbs. I redid my carbs and disconnected the lines. Now I'm confused what line is the reserve and the main tank? Does it matter? Prob a dumb question but does anyone know? Thx
Justin
11
« on: March 27, 2012, 02:45:09 AM »
Does anyone know the gauge or where I can get a wire to lengthen between the starter motor and the magnetic starter located on the control board?? Basically I moved my magnetic starter to a different location and need a heavy gauge wire to accomodate the distance. Thanks. 1971 CB500four.
J
12
« on: March 18, 2012, 08:19:20 PM »
heat the tube so it expands and freeze the races (not bearings) so they shrink. It will make the job alot easier. We've done it on a few bikes here in brooklyn. Any hardware store you can pick up the citrus stripper. Its bright orange and non-toxic.
13
« on: March 18, 2012, 05:06:44 PM »
Got a 1971 CB500four. The place I bought them said to ditch everything including the felt and caps. The new caps have bearings in them so I can see why. What I am wondering however is how far to press them in?? I've heard typically 5mm?? Does that sound about right?
J
14
« on: March 18, 2012, 05:05:18 PM »
I would use the citra paint remover. It works great and doesn't stink and is all natural. I've used it on a ton of stuff on my 500. I also swapped my steering bearings out for tapered ones. What a difference. It is a little tricky getting old ones out and new ones in. Requires a blow dryer and a freezer. Freeze the race for about a half and hour and heat up the tube a bit with a blow dryer to get them in. Worked great for me. I got mine at http://www.allballsracing.com/ They have bearings for pretty much everything. Hope this helps J
15
« on: March 17, 2012, 12:50:54 AM »
Brianj
I got the bearings in. Much smaller than the original. To me it seems like they should sit flush with the outside so the bearing covers will protect any kind of contaminants. I've also heard setting them back 5mm. Any thoughts??
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