Honda-SOHC

and a third - got some probs adding pictures :'(

The smallest Harro fits.
I use it since 1986, think it is produced again by a new company.
Daniel

It's not my plan to bash somebody - on the contrary. But as a longtime-lurcher I probably can point to a link explaining "why he thinks it's that way as written there". Second post.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,182280.0.html

Wasn't that easy to understand for me, german-speaking guy. Even if I live in Bernoulli's town .

Hi

Had a stumble all over the years when opening throttle from fully closed.
New rubber-manifolds with new O-rings - in my opinion everything should have been tight. Tests with brake cleaner didn’t show airleaks.

Last year I smeared some threebond between manifolds and head and oh boy stumble is no longer here and the engine revs up like a turbine.
You might give that a try.

Is your ignition spot on? Advancer moves freely?

Boys and Girlz

Thank you so much for your warm reception. I promise to behave properly, if there's something to say i'll post, otherwise my mouth stays closed.

Enjoy the season, wintertime will come sooner we all believe.

Greets, Daniel

@Mick: pen pushers dark side aka 'special interest'

Terry
You ask about experience with coils and electronic ignition. Here it is, I try to keep it short. The bike is a 1975 400 f.
 
Setup:
•   CBR 600 coils
•   Accent CTRL fully programmable ignition [not to confuse with Accent ELZ2coil – what is an electronic on/off switch to replace the points].

Results:
•   starts excellent
•   idles fine and stable with the sound of a sewing-machine
•   improved throttle response – more ‘punch’ between 4000 – 6000 RPM
•   no longer sputter/flat spots when starting from traffic light or agonise in stop-and-go
•   Would do it again

Side-notes:
Modern coils produce stronger sparks – but consume more electrical power. If you connect such a 3Ω coil to points your alternator won’t feed enough juice. This problem can be solved using an electronic trigger with a [coil-]charging time about 120° crankcase-rotation [e.g. Accent ELZ2coil, delivered on demand for low-ohm-coils]. 

Fully programmable ignitions are nice-to-have toys.
Advantages:
•   You are sure the advance begins/ends where you want [and not where an annealed spring tries to act].
•   You are free to fix idle-advance without influence to full advance [mechanical advancers have a fixed range between min–max]. So you can start with 10° idle-advance and give some extra-degrees on max.
•   You can define any dwell-angle so your [modern]-coil gets enough but not too much current.

Disadvantages:
•   Not cheap
•   You need to hide the control unit somewhere

My Ducati is working with the Czech Ignitech without any problem. Unfortunatly the last months I read about problems on newer versions so I decided to not continue this path an bought the German Accent – their standard product [ELZ2coil] satisfied me 100% but I wanted to get rid of the mechanic advancer. You should know that the programmable Accent-version is designed for 750 advancers, the center-bore is 15.0mm, 350/400 is 13.5mm. I solved that by machining a completely new mount.

If you like spending the nights reading basics:  http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,29545.0.html
Or how a German guy installed Ignitech: http://www.caferacer-forum.de/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=8683

So – hope that helps coming to a decision.

Daniel