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Messages - Bryanj
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10006
« on: January 29, 2009, 03:49:04 PM »
No problem mate, is that just a wet dream 250 or the old G5, worked on lots of those too!
GS450? import or UK i did an import for a mate last year and had a swine getting parts.
No problem with number as long as people stick to times quoted i dont care as i am an LGV driver and work nights (with bluetooth earpiece)
10007
« on: January 29, 2009, 01:51:36 PM »
Its not difficult if you get the complete kit with insertion tool not just the tap and coils, you will also need a drill of an "odd" but getable size. and if you are going to buy the kit i would try it in situ first, if you have to take the head off to clean it what have you lost.
Welcome to ring me any evening Sunday to Thursday after 8pm on 0XXXXXXXX3 to talk it through and ring from a landline and i will call you back
10008
« on: January 29, 2009, 04:25:58 AM »
It can be done "in situ" but its at the owners risk!!!
(1) grease appropriate drill well and drill out old thread slowly so swarf gets stuck in drill
(2) Likewise with tap
(3) fit insert
(4) kick over fast, repeatedly to remove any recaltrant swarf (you hope)
Worst case scenario you have to remove head to clean out bits from under valves----only had to do this once in the 10 ish years doing the job.
Cost---- 2 inserts will cost about same as buying kit NORMALY
10009
« on: January 25, 2009, 01:00:17 PM »
Not unless you want to see low flying nocturnal ducks on dip beam!!!
10010
« on: January 24, 2009, 02:20:03 PM »
I agree, modern petrol, or gas as the yanks call it, does go off a lot quicker than it used to.
When new, first Hondas to need draining if stood were CX500 & CB750/900 twin cam(79+) and it was usualy anything over 8 days drain the carbs, what was in the tank stayed OK though. Never did figure out why just drained them in the workshop on pre- customer checkover
10011
« on: January 24, 2009, 02:15:28 PM »
If its working I really dont think its an air problem as that would just make it spongy and not work till the last bit by the bars---not in the first 1/2 inch.
Steve could be right in is there any mechanical adjustment at the clutch end?
I Have the Honda blue book manuals for the CB650 and the CB650SC addendum but not the later one sorry
10012
« on: January 24, 2009, 09:37:34 AM »
Yup, that makes sense, hydraulic clutches were only just starting when i quit spannereing so i cant be definitive but what you describe sounds more like parts incompatibility rather than a bleeding problem.
? are all the parts original off the same model
10013
« on: January 23, 2009, 08:29:15 PM »
Do you mean you go from slip to full lock up in the first 1/2 inch, cos if so i think that would be right
10014
« on: January 23, 2009, 08:27:49 PM »
Those torque settings should be ok as 550 and 750 front end are very similar and yes the washer does look like somebody nibbled an edge off
10015
« on: January 11, 2009, 11:23:17 PM »
Urghhhh
10016
« on: January 11, 2009, 11:22:26 PM »
I'll just about guarantee the pilot jet or pathway is blocked
10017
« on: January 10, 2009, 09:52:12 AM »
Other big problem was nobody cleaned out the centrifugal oil filter on the RH end of crank inside the clutch cover as the labour time was high and customers wouldnt pay.
Then it blocks and starves the cam and it siezes which of course is all Honda's fault and it gets an "unreliable" image.
Worked on lots and found em great if serviced right BUT ALWAYS let em' warm up before riding/thrashing as if you dont you will shatter piston rings----holds true for the "K" model as well
10018
« on: January 08, 2009, 09:51:33 AM »
Swansea say its sorned till 04/2009 so somebody is looking after it
10019
« on: January 06, 2009, 04:26:53 AM »
Easy answers
(1) You dont
(2) from a distance
(3) after mucho sucking up
10020
« on: January 04, 2009, 01:25:09 PM »
That works on the 500 but the 550 has closed off swing arm ends so you have to pull the spindle,
Incidentaly that where the changeover is for brakeplates, hubs and spacers
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