This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Underdog1
391
« on: July 28, 2016, 01:14:32 PM »
So another day and the replacement keys still haven't turned up! The doubt the set i ordered from the code on the tank lock are even going to fit now as (a previous poster alluded to) the ignition should have a code on it somewhere unless it is aftermarket.. and i can't find one. Called a local locksmith and he quoted me some silly price to cut a key so I've just ordered an aftermarket ignition and key from eBay. If it turns out the set of keys I've ordered do fir then i can just return it i suppose. So with not really much else i can do right now I've looked at the tank this morning, its been on the electric chair for over 2 days and I've conditionally ben scraping all sorts off the sacrificial anode so its definitely done something. I emptied it out sprayed some WD40 inside and swilled it out with methylated spirt before drying it out with a hair drier. Suprisingy it doesn't actually look any better than before despite the crap that came out of it  and after looking deeper inside with a torch i found what looks like some sort of old sealant inside towards the front end of the tank   so with my best screwdriver i tried to scrape it off and found it to be quite hard  only managed to get a small bit out   Any tips on how i can strip all this shite out? Its probably the reason why the electrolysis didn't work as well as i thought it would
392
« on: July 27, 2016, 04:30:12 PM »
I may have some of those connectors somewhere, if I can find any I will dig a few out for you (free) . Good thing is you can solder them as well as crimp. I have the hand crimper in the loft somewhere ...today that tool costs over 350 quid!
(Attachment Link)
(Attachment Link)
That would be awesome, cheers bud! Yeah - just run a pair of individual lines and you'll be fine.
That overflow tube by the battery tray is for the battery overflow (for lead-acid batteries). If you use a sealed / agm battery you can do away with it.
Yeah took the rear fender off and there was a little sticker underneath with a diagram of it 
393
« on: July 27, 2016, 01:29:48 PM »
yeah I'm going to do away with indicators, no time for that nonsense. Will look up those connectors you mentioned. As I'm waiting out on this key to arrive I'm just familiarising myself with the bike. Came across this tube which looks to be some sort of breather or overflow tube. Not quite sure what its for though. Top end is near the battery  Other end comes out next to the centre stand 
394
« on: July 27, 2016, 11:54:57 AM »
No real progress so far, the key i ordered still hasn't turned up and i haven't been able to get the ignition on by using a decent battery and connecting the red and black ignition wires. Wish i had just bought an aftermarket ignition and key as it would have been the same price and would be here by now! The 40 year old wiring looks crusty and a lot of the connectors look well past there prime, i think I'm going to rewire the entire bike at some point as it looks like the wiring can be simplified a bit and will at least last a while then. I found this schematic online, is this a good place to start? 
395
« on: July 26, 2016, 05:30:54 PM »
Looks like you have a K2 tank and seat fitted. The K2 tank has the fuel tap (with two outlets) on the RHS.
Given the rusty fuel tank, get yourself one of these so you don't contaminate the carbs (once you've checked and cleaned them) when you first run the bike after basic inspection / servicing..:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351510130564
I've recommissioned several US import 750's and they are generally pretty bullet-proof. Do yourself a favour and get her running nicely first before you start spending out too much...
James
Ah that would explain it, i take it i can just run two fuel lines from it (one to each pair of carbs)? Just bought that remote fuel tank, was literally about to bodge one together out of an old petrol can and hosepipe  Started work on cleaning the rust out the tank  Gwarn science lad!
396
« on: July 26, 2016, 11:14:22 AM »
Another quick question, and inknow this can be a contentious issue...
Is running a 10w40 Semi synthetic oil API SL/CF ok for this bike?
397
« on: July 25, 2016, 09:57:13 PM »
This might help finding a caliper.
http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,1562.0.html
Cheers
Dennis
Yeah that may well come in handy, cheers bud! Underdog, I'm so sorry, I seem to have inadvertently thrown a metaphorical spanner into your thread, now it's all about that fella on Youtube. Is he Australian Perhaps; and could that be why he builds engines upside down. 
I'm new here myself, but from what I've read.on this excellent forum I feel sure that you are eventually going to find all the information and help you could ever want.
Rob
Hah no worries! So i only managed to get 30 minutes or so poking about the old girl today as i finished work late. Took the ignition off at the block connector, connected a good battery touched the spade connectors for the red and black wires and didn't get anything.. no electrics.  Hopefully this is a fault at my end as the advert did state that the bike turned over with a good battery, is there a better way to bypass the ignition? Now I've got the lock off anyone know a way i can find the key code (on I'm assuming the lock barrel) without destroying it?).  Now the tanks off I'm a little confused by the fuel line set up.. the petcock has 2 outlets but i can only see one fuel line fitted (nothing was actually connected up though) which has a T junction to seemingly feed a each pair of carbs. So this set up means all the carbs are fed off just one petcock outlet.. I'm probably being an idiot here but whats the other petcock outlet for?   As a bonus, heres the inside of my petrol tank the dirty old girl 
398
« on: July 24, 2016, 10:33:37 PM »
Let the fun begin  Not all SOHC calipers are the same, don't rush as you will need to get the old girl running before worrying about getting her to stop.
The seat key is very rarely the same as the ignition.
Ahh. Well I've ordered one from eBay, it was only £6 so worth a shot I suppose. Will get the ignition barrel out tomorrow and have a deeper look
399
« on: July 24, 2016, 05:05:32 PM »
You could Hotwire it for now, pul the plug out of the ignition switch and connect red to black, ages since I did mine, someone correct me if I'm wrong!
Yeah ill give that a go for now, cheers bud. Not sure about the 750 but on smaller models the key number is often marked on the body of the ignition switch somewhere.
I have used this guy a couple of times to order keys by number.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281030401159?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
The only code i can find is on the seat lock, I've messaged the seller and hopefully the seat lock is the same as the ignition. Other things I've noted so far: No front brake calliper! Bit annoying as looking on bey I'm going to be spending £80+ replacing it.. Does anyone know if I can use any CB750 SOHC calliper or do they differ year to year? Inside of the tank is mega rusty. Going to try some electrolysis to see if i can bring it back to life.
400
« on: July 24, 2016, 02:51:05 PM »
So the bikes just been delivered, cosmetically it looks in reasonable nick.
The first obvious issue is it didn't come with any keys, i presume theres some sort of way to order them through Honda?
401
« on: July 23, 2016, 10:11:02 PM »
Welcome to the forum, and looks like you've bought a DK special. Looks like a good base to start with....
Hah yeah bang on. Pretty much the same description on all their imports! first,
get a manual,with that read it and check ALL the bike over,
renew brake fluid,engine oil and filters,
beware of stripping the carbs if you don't know what you doing,
spend time learning about the bike,before you touch it,
BTW,we love pictures on here,the more the merrier,
PS,Welcome the the wonderful world of sohc,lots of friendly people here,with stacks of expert advice,
Cheers mate, yeah I've got a tatty second hand haynes manual ready for it. Im pretty mechanically minded so will hopefully get things figured out. Just didn't want to make a catastrophic mistake at the start line firing it up when theres no engine oil or something
402
« on: July 23, 2016, 09:45:10 PM »
Hi guys, I taking delivery of a 1976 CB750 tomorrow which is a non runner from a dry US state, something for me to spend my spare time tinkering with. Needless to say i have naff all history with this bike. According to the seller it has good compression and when fed a few squirts of ether it fires and tries to start & run. My mechanical expertise are basic from doing various jobs on cars, and I've bought this bike to actually develop some better mechanical know how. As i don't know the history of why this bike was stored in the first place I'm a little reluctant to start trying to fire her up straight off the bat - Can anyone give me any damage controlling tips on what i should check beforehand? My first job will be to tear down and refurb the carbs, hopefully this will get her at least ticking over. Only time will tell hey! 
|
Show Posts