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Messages - Lobo
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76
« on: January 09, 2023, 09:10:21 PM »
… cross posting - is that Hydraulic Nige?
77
« on: January 09, 2023, 09:09:28 PM »
Don’t talk to me about Hillman Imps - I sold my beautiful 400F to raise £s for flying lessons, and with the change bought an Imp. G/f then bought one (and later another) and every w/e thereafter I was grubbing around breakers yards (in the good old days where they pointed you to a corner and you trudged off in the rain with your tools) to retrieve the wanted part. The heater system… aaargh; I used electric gloves to get me over the Pennines on my weekly runs home to get my laundry done / get a good feed.
Wrt electronic throttle system, two issues come to mind. (1) it could have severe legal implications in the event of any accident unless fully declared both to the insurance co - (who would likely then decline) and also Land Transport - who’d demand inspections and all types of brouhaha. It’s a path I don’t want to go down. But more importantly (2), I want to keep the old girl as standard as possible for both simplicity and authenticity. Purely in the interests of safety I’ve fitted front discs, inertia belts and a modern steering rack - but it has stopped there.
Thoughts appreciated- thanks gents; Ted will test soak my tube for a couple of weeks, it is tho’ 4mm ID to carry a 1.5mm cable and so plenty of tolerance.
78
« on: January 09, 2023, 12:13:39 PM »
My daily drive is a split-screen Kombi: dear god, if ever drive-by-wire was needed this is it. The accelerator cable (& clutch) is a 4m long affair, wending it’s way down an aged 6mm ID steel tube, then through a bendy pipe to the jiggling engine. Typical life is 2 years, ie when the 1.5mm stainless cable begins to fray. It’s such an awful dirty job changing it that it gets done habitually versus risking a roadside failure…
So, I want to replace the worn steel / bendy tubes with a continuous nylon one, with no joins, ie accel pedal to carb arm. And here’s the question… should I be lubing the ss cable in any way? And if so, what oil / grease please?
Desperately hoping it can all be kept clean / dry!
79
« on: January 09, 2023, 11:55:39 AM »
Ted; have you actually ridden an electric m’cycle? I haven’t, but I’d do believe it’d give you more excitement than you can handle… Hearsay for sure, but my m’cycling buddy was recently telling me of a ‘friend-of-a-friend’ thrown off his electric charge due his mis-controlling the acceleration, I honestly believe this as owner of an EV (‘housewife’s shopping’) car which does 0-60 in 7 secs, and regarded as unremarkable in the EV world. (BMW i3)
As for steam loco, I recently bought one!
A ‘00’ Hornby Live Steam Mallard - unused (as yet) and in its box from 2005. Literally awesome for me; that a genuine steam loco can be made this small. For those interested, the rails supply 17v / 7A to a heated tank in the tender, which then pipes steam to the loco, where it is then super heated and fed to the pistons. Control is via electrical pulses, and includes reverse. Easy to control if happy to be a mile short or long of the station platform 😂
(Full disclosure- I haven’t even a train set. Just ‘needed’ this 😀
80
« on: December 17, 2022, 09:44:45 PM »
Btw Steve, earlier in the year, on another thread here, it was pointed out to me that a PV array on your roof invalidates house insurance due the fact that UK firemen won’t go near a flaming house with solar panels. Just a thought and something you may want to verify / investigate?
Can’t remember that poster - if you’re here can you chip in & re-elaborate pls?
81
« on: December 17, 2022, 09:25:24 PM »
Given you’re not rewarded for feeding back to the grid Steve your set up sounds perfect. Solar panels are like computers in terms of development, when I bought ours (best avail) 4 years ago they were rated at 325W each. Your’s appear double that…
(None of my business I appreciate, but it seems that mix & matching charging set-ups can be a world of pain wrt getting the Inverter to talk to the battery etc. I know this coz earlier this year looked into it, and only then realised how sophisticated these set-ups are; the advice given was to try and use a common manufacturer for all component parts - or at least use tried & proven set ups. Certainly, too many cowboy outfits about.)
Over here (ie Oz), the ability to go off grid as such, is a whole new can of worms. On a normal home set up, if the grid fails your inverter becomes unpowered and the home goes dark. This is a deliberate safety factor to avoid homes reverse-powering the grid and electrocuting maintenance folk every time they shut down local power lines. Whether a battery powered home could incorporate an isolation switch I don’t know, but I’d guess the authorities will have concerns.
My PV switch is to isolate the PV array from the Inverter, ie make working on the roof safe. (This switch is duplicated to the external home switch box for firemen etc)
Wrt home batteries, a really obvious EV development is becoming available… V2L, V2G, V2H etc.
V2L(oad) means you can power anything up to circa 3kW from your car, or indeed charge other cars (great for camping etc)
V2G will allow your car to power the grid, but if UK energy companies won’t pay out why would ya?
V2H allows your vehicle to power your home, and given that EVs typically have batteries 5x the size of home batteries (eg 70kWh vs 14kWh Powerwall) you could indeed power any average home for an extended outage.
Currently, over here, batteries do not make financial sense given the rebates we get on excess kWhrs, but certainly I reckon I’ll be looking hard at V2H in the next car.
I’d appreciate a Solar PV thread; exciting times ahead in this respect and it’s all changing so fast.
82
« on: December 16, 2022, 11:59:38 PM »
Recently saw a documentary of Hydrogen (ie Fuel Cell) cars versus battery, and the conclusion was resoundingly in favour of batteries given the efficiencies of energy ‘production’ at source, to transmission / transport, to vehicle storage, to motive conversion at the drive wheels. (Ken, I don’t think reciprocating hydrogen units feature in envisaged autos?)
My wife has an i3 with Range Extender - it’s perfect for us, and typically only use it’s REx once or twice a year as we’ve no other major car. (the 50 yo Kombi too nail biting for 1000km trips 😂). Day to day running is essentially free due home solar. (I fully expect it to keep on going, sure the battery will degrade with time, but even at 20 years and (eg) half the original range it’d still suit our needs. (At 4 yo there is no noticeable drop off))
The point however is, that it charges at abouts 6kW/h, (ie 40kph)… using 2014 technology.
ONLY 8 years later… and the Teslas are now capable of 300km in 5 minutes. Holy moley. Yes you need their DC supercharger, and yes you have to prewarn the battery so that it can pre-condition itself - but these are just steps in the endless path to electrical storage efficiencies.
Efficient (ha!) ICEs and plentiful fuel infrastructures took 10s of years to mature, so why do folk not anticipate and allow the same of battery technologies?
Personally, I can’t envisage ever buying another ICE, the ownership is as stark as an old Nokia versus a smart phone, or, a sophisticated and needy pocket watch versus a Swatch watch.
Aerospace industries are researching electrical propulsion for flight; and indeed there are commercial aircraft now flying; one outfit at Popham operates an electric 2 seat light trainer.
I honestly don’t see any choice but electric for the future, given politics, green agendas, efficiencies, lack of plausible alternatives. Just give it (a little) time.
Below, and only to make you jealous (!) a typical days home solar production. The car is being charged towards the end of the day; the surplus energy (grey) is sold back to the supplier at about 60% of what they provide it at. The UK is woefully behind here; we get financial incentives to install solar, and financial rewards for selling excess back - which I believe has stopped in England?
83
« on: December 02, 2022, 09:35:20 PM »
Many thanks all - infos passed on.
Simon
84
« on: December 01, 2022, 07:53:52 AM »
Dang Ken, can only get a finger tip in between the inside ‘stand nut and #2 exhaust (ie top pic)
Back to plan A, thanks nonetheless.
85
« on: November 30, 2022, 11:36:27 AM »
… that looks just the job Ken, I’ll have a grub around under the ‘750 tomorrow and make sure I’m happy it’ll all clear frame parts / exhausts etc.
Many thanks!
86
« on: November 29, 2022, 10:15:16 PM »
I’ve a good friend (>60), recently retired and now looking to buy a new road bike. (him & I spent 25+ yrs in Asia and have been well away from western offerings!)
So, any experiences of the CBX500X and NC750X please. The buyer is an experienced rider, though with more off-road time than ‘cruising’. He’s doing the rounds of all that’s on offer, and has recently highlighted these 2 machines.
Failing this, any glowing recommendations of any practical road bike, 500cc +. Looking to buy new / modern and not 1970s SOHC type 🙁. (his loss eh?)
87
« on: November 29, 2022, 09:35:00 PM »
I had a slight seam leak on a SS50, and applied a POR15 type product. LOADS of prep and utmost care, and tbh a good result. This topic keeps rearing its head here, and generally though, the answer is ‘don’t go there unless you really need to’.
To (hopefully) mitigate tank rusting issues I add 2T (ie 2 stroke) oil to my CB750 @ every fill up, at abouts 100:1; it certainly doesn't seem to mind…
88
« on: November 29, 2022, 09:25:01 PM »
A sobering story Nigel, bloody horrific for your friend.
I’ve found a vey grubby K5 Sidestand here on eBay at $125, but it’d then need cleaning up, powder coating AND a new rubber. Versus my box of electrical bits which has no-end of 12v relays, buzzers and microswitches. I’ve identified a spot where a m’switch would mount, shielded away from thrown dirt and moisture, and will likely go this route - ie a buzzer tied to the Neutral switch via relay. (ie to get around the issue Ken’s mentioned)
SteveW, your flashing idiot panel would be great, but in reality not really simple to wire up. (I’m also really against cutting / modifying the original loom in any way which this would surely entail)
89
« on: November 27, 2022, 11:05:57 AM »
Steve, when I wrote starter motor inhibit I meant that the starter wouldn’t spin; your post suggests it did, but the spark was inhibited???
I guess Bryan, my personal idea of fail safe (in this very specific case) is that the engine keeps running should any component of the sub-circuit or it’s wiring fail.. whether open or closed circuit.
Nige, I did not intend to concentrate on the relay, but rather the whole sub-circuit, meaning failures of the sub-loom, it’s earthing, it’s connections, the 2 switches and indeed the relay itself would allow the engine to stay running.
Fuel injectors circuits carry a different set of risks in that fuel is being pressurised - although I do see differing points-of-view wrt ‘what is safest’ - especially so in that it will vary iaw the threat. (as indeed you touched upon)
A very interesting topic tbh, and shows how one just can’t sit down and design a circuit without a fair amount of understanding the problem. It must constantly lead to ‘doh, I never thought of that’, type frustrations!
90
« on: November 27, 2022, 05:47:58 AM »
Thanks gents; much appreciated. I too have been digging, and yep Ken, the F model sidestand appears different.
Notably the K5 sidestand is a different part # to the K2/3/4, and includes the rubber. BUT, the K5 frame # is the same part # as 2/3/4, so I assume the K5 side-stand should fit a K2 frame. Am I correct in this assumption?
Nige, whilst not interested in bastardising my ignition circuit, I looked at the circuit diag you provided and am somewhat surprised in that it is not FAIL SAFE. The (Bosch type) relay is depicted as a Normally Open (NO) type unit, meaning that electrical power is needed to hold the relay closed to energise the ignition coils. Ergo, an open circuit failure in the sidestand sub-circuit will de-energise the control coil relay, causing the contacts to open and thereby cut power to the coils. (= engine failure!)
Along the same lines, whilst not made clear in the diag you posted, I’d suggest the Neutral and Sidestand switches be both NO type switches if possible - again in the interests of Fail Safe.
OR - am I missing something? (I’ve included what I reckon I’d be doing if going that route, specifically using a NC (Normally Closed) type relay)
(a look at my Moto Guzzi set up was not much use as clumps of wires just disappear into various computery things. Dang)
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