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Messages - Lobo
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796
« on: May 18, 2015, 05:18:40 AM »
Hi Roy, I had this felt washer prob when rebuilding my 400F carbs, and frankly was unsuccessful @ making new ones as per all the advice on the Internet. In the end I bought a job lot of assorted vinyl grommet type washers, and bingo there was a size that fitted beautifully. Haven't looked back.... Book figure (F2) from my manual is the pilot screws @ 1.5 turns out. I'm no F2 expert, but saw this on an F2 thread... I read it as screw gently home = lean. "The pilot screws block the entire pilot circuit from delivering fuel. If the acell pump is working and the throttle held open the engine will start and race, but dies at/near idle settings." The below possibly of use, (type "Felt" into the search box of first link) Good luck, Simon http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/search.cfmhttp://www.hondachopper.com/garage/carb_info/tuning101/carb_tips.html
797
« on: May 18, 2015, 03:52:35 AM »
Hi again, Bit of a brain fart - you'll only have a redundant green from the old regulator. The remaining Black & the White from the old regulator will connect into your new all in one unit. I'm sure you've been keeping an eye on Nim's thread http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,8334.msg55264.html#msg55264Simon.
798
« on: May 17, 2015, 05:38:21 PM »
Hi Jim,
Sounds all good - my only reservation being that you have 2 earth spades 'floating' free. Certainly the old earth to your regulator is redundant, but I think the earth to the old rectifier is shared with the alternator field coil.... & so should be properly connected.
This said, I'm working from CB400F / 750K2 diagrams... but all in all they all seem pretty standard in the charging department.
Simon
799
« on: May 16, 2015, 01:16:09 AM »
...yea yea yea, I'm mortified. But it was a 1/2 way house fix prior to getting OEM parts / set up ... which is where the bike is now. All luverly..
But ya should have seen it when I got it....
800
« on: May 15, 2015, 04:47:21 PM »
Hi Spanner,
DSS (David Silver Spares) sell an all-in-one Regulator/Rectifier unit, which should just bolt on directly to you bike... via one loom plug. I had one on my CB750K2 & it worked a treat. You will be able to remove the regulator unit... just tape up the 3 wires (black, white, green) & stow them safely out of harms way.
Job done.
Simon
801
« on: May 12, 2015, 02:35:22 PM »
Indeedy... a stunning post for all the right reasons...
Point is Jim, you've now a 'flavour' of how it all is... the LH switch gear will be, as they say in Asia where I work, "same same, but different"
Kinda sums it up nicely.
Simon.
803
« on: May 03, 2015, 03:56:58 PM »
Hello Mike,
The HT leads are typically a source of trouble if aged; you say you replaced the coils... can we assume this includes the HT leads... and even better the caps?
Other areas to check is the set-up correct... points gapped @ 12-16 thou", plugs (NGK D8ES) at 24-28 tho"
Is the points back plate clean / well earthed? Are all the leads / connectors clean & in good fettle?
In answer to your alternator question, the battery voltage will nominally be around 12.4V, and rise to abouts 14.5 by 4000 RPM. I guess this 20% increase in low circuit voltage will directly increase the HT voltage by 20%.... but whether this means a 20% better spark I'll leave to smarter folk than me to say...
What will be very relevant is the starter motor cranking will drop the voltage significantly... is this your problem perhaps? Off the top of my head I reckon it'd drop to 9 v or so; and even less on a bad battery or with worn starter motor.
(a trick used by manufacturers to overcome this was to fit ballast coils... which typically ran at say 6v via the resistor. Except when you cranked the starter.... the ballast resister was removed from the circuit allowing 9v or so to the coils... and bingo a big spark for starting. Once running / starter motor off ... the resistor switched back in & coils now back at 6v)
I digress...
An option to consider might be fitting an electronic ignition to boost your spark... definitely pros & cons to these... a few threads around this website if you look.
I've a breakerless electronic ignition on my '750.... I can't tell you it particularly runs better. But, it certainly starts more easily... via the starter motor regardless of months standing.
Simon
804
« on: April 26, 2015, 11:27:04 AM »
"Two of them should be "cranked" Simon for a 400/4"
Ah.... I (wrongly) figured all the SOHC Fours had a mix of straight & cranked....
Simon
805
« on: April 26, 2015, 07:18:34 AM »
You did well Ash; I paid 40 Euro (£28) for a set from Germany. Oddly, the set contains 2 straight + 2 cranked (45 deg) plug caps.
Haven't fitted 'em!
Simon
806
« on: April 25, 2015, 02:37:17 AM »
Hi Alan,
Re colours, I refer to my parts manual & note the colour options listed for the model type (K2 in my case) & applicable frame (serial) number. The colour code is the final two letters of the part #.
Then check the area code... eg America, England & so on for applicability...
Note: the left serial number is initial frame frame applicability, and the right serial number the final frame for that part #.
Below have attached the various colour options for you, noting that area codes are not specified (ie blank) leading (me) to believe they were avail all over...
(the red highlights my own bike etc)
This said the true buffs might know better,
Hope this helps,
Simon.
PS pewe, welcome....what did you get for Xmas btw?!
807
« on: April 23, 2015, 01:00:46 AM »
Hi Oddjob, In my limited experience I'd think there is no reason why you can't open up your 'poorly' rev counter and take a peek inside. Indeed, you may be able to bash out the casing ding, fill, respray etc, and due no trip reset reassemble with the damaged area lowermost / out of sight. My previous 2 lower casings (CB400) I just cleaned, sprayed & laquered to good (enough) effect (see below) ... but in comparison to the new one... well, there isn't... The CB750 lower casings are housed in that big rubber mounting and so you can get away with more. Peter.... who is now probably very much regretting this thread (!) supplied me at a VERY reasonable cost, and on part exchange basis where possible: New faces New glasses New trip white digits sticky overlay (the wheels fade to cream & cannot be cleaned) New re-plated lower case New casing grommet for the trip spindle A 'how to guide' So really, as I've said all along, "I really didn't do much" .... Simon (hmmm... there seems to be a spring & wee cog left over from the 750 Speedo resto... don't remember that... except it all works fine! (perhaps part of the trip mechanism, & awaiting placement) (What would be nice - Peter, you reading this!- would be new crimp bands. If scratched / minorly damaged there's no way round it to my knowledge, although the CB750 Lecram resto guru can supply these for that bike. For those guys wanting to restore CB750 gauges try here... http://www.cb750faces.com/cb750faces.nl/en/?no_mobile_theme
808
« on: April 22, 2015, 03:49:33 PM »
Um.... wow! What a stunning restored example.
Looking forward to reading the 350 thread now....
Simon
809
« on: April 22, 2015, 02:46:37 PM »
Cheers Roy / Chris,
But honestly, Kent400 is your man, (sorry Peter!) - I can't take any of the credit.
For a very reasonable cost, Peter supplied me the new faces , the lenses, advice + other bits'n'bobs....
Chris, whilst all apart go the whole hog & freshen up the whole caboodle... otherwise you'll just have regrets.
Roy, don't be daunted, the hard part is de-crimping the ring; beyond this it's basically taking loads of snaps as you disassemble, + thence cleaning / painting etc.
(the crimp ring disassembly is a large diameter jubilee clip abouts the crimp ring to protect its shape, and then levering (carefully) up the lip all around the instrument. Take it slow & steady...)
And then there's the forum... if Peter's away there'll be plenty of others with help / tips.
So, as a starter for 10.... PM 'Kent400' on this forum.
Cheers,
Simon
810
« on: April 22, 2015, 01:05:25 AM »
Thanks Bitsa, Peter.
Yup Chris400, as Peter says, I used his bench drill press method. You have to 'start' the crimp ring fold over by a few degrees - I used a screw-drivel blade every few mms around the circumference - and thence just used a bench drill with a suitably sized punch to fully complete the job.
A nice block of wood with a suitably sized hole might have been more elegant than the straight edged block you see.... but doh, I'd already fitted the trip reset spindle & knob.....
You live & learn....
(oh, & another tip - wrap the gauge in masking tape as you do this)
Simon
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