Honda-SOHC

I reckon DSS will refund 100% of all your costs. On the rare occasion they've stuffed up over an order of mine there's never been any quibble / drama.

Simon.

Hi Johndoc,

Great to have another 400F on the mend...

Sorry, rather late in the day, but I ordered those DSS coils & don't remember too much of an issue at all... did you check the boxes for additional mounting hardware... I'm sure I remember some.

The rattle at idle... does indeed seem to be a 400F thing, and a certain amount seems generally accepted as 'normal'. There are a few areas though to look at; I should bloody know having had my engine professionally rebuilt... and returned with said rattle. Grrrr....

Carb balancing the first stop, as you say.
Cam chain... worn or out of adjustment. (Mine was renewed... still rattled)
Primary drive chain worn / stretched (mine was checked against a new one & returned as ok)
Primary drive rubber dampers (cushs) - 8 of 'em, part #23114-323-000 (not replaced on my bike - regret! But I do now have new ones just waiting for the next strip down!)
Clutch.... my main culprit. Renewed springs, plates... better, replaced cushs (meant to be a non-serviceable item in this respect)..... far, far better. In my case, this was the culprit.

So, good luck, a lot to check, but do consider all of the above.

..... & if you've got the patience of Jobe read this thread..

http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,4353.msg18997.html#msg18997

Simon.

Shamelessly copied from some thread somewhere. There'll be those that jump up & down yelling, "but it's off the internet... it can't be trusted".... but hey ho, short of talking directly with god it'll hopefully do.
I seem to remember reading somewhere (!) 01mm was fine for speeds up to 80mph.
Oh, and "wow" to your 0.2mm.... my DSS DID rims welds were more than this!
Simon.

............Do this enough times until you are happy with your work, then gradually go around tightening the spokes. They don’t need to be death tight. There are lots of them and they all need to share the work equally. As you rotate the wheel strike the spokes lightly with you spanner. They should start to give a nice crisp ‘ding’ not a dull ‘thud’ or an over tightened ‘ping’. Get a soft-faced mallet and go around the wheel and give every spoke a light wack. This will settle the spokes, one might have been tightened up with a slight bow in it. A gentle knock with the hammer will spring it into line and it will now probably have a dull thud to it when struck with your tuning spanner. By now the wheel should be pretty close to being right. Keep checking offset, checking radial runout, and checking axil runout

Time for a cuppa or a beer. Come back later after the nerves have settled, run around it with the tuning spanner, ding, ding, dong, ding and give it that final touch……….. Should be pretty right after all that.


Finishing

If your keen enough, you can now check your work with a dial gauge. Most motorcycle manuals specify a maximum runout figure of 2mm or .080 in. You should easily get a new rim well under 1mm or .040 in. An old re-laced rim would still come somewhere near 1 mm or .040 in unless it had a bit of a woof in it. Put the rim band on, fit your tyre and make sure the bead sits down properly and you have correct air pressure. Put the fully assembled wheel back up in your jig and give it a slow spin and see how it goes for balance. Static balancing a wheel is another easy job that makes a lot of difference to the performance of the bike. You can buy proper wheel weights that either stick onto the rim or clamp around the spoke. You can cut strips of lead and wrap them around the spokes or cut strips of lead and stick them to the rim with silicon.

Spin the wheel slowly and wait for it to come to rest. Mark the top of the tyre with chalk. Spin the wheel slowly again and see if it stops in the same place. Add some lead weight to the top of the wheel by wrapping it around a spoke or by taping it to the rim. Spin the wheel again. Repeat this and add or subtract weights until the wheel takes a long time to stop turning and will stop in any position. Fix the lead weights properly to the rim. If you wrap strips of lead around the spokes, wrap electricians tape or similar around the windings. Stick the strips to the rims with silicon and tape over the weights until the silicon has set. Fit wheel to bike.

Fordy,
This thread any use...?
You'll have to scroll down before it gets onto needles etc


http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,114960.0.html?PHPSESSID=s38h0m3sbn7e2uqcpa1cofnhp1

Simon

Tim,

Given the effort involved & the size of your project you'd be kicking yourself down the track for the want of separating the swing arm to give a better paint job + thence 'peace of mind' new  (inexpensive) bushes.

Just my thoughts,
Simon

Hi Phil,
That sounds v.organised. For my vehicles I simply open up their manuals within my iPad & just long-hand type what I've done - with observations - against miles / dates) on a blank page. (GoodReader App)

Works for me as the two things I want (service requirements / my history) are in the same manual.
Simon.

Forgive me Bryan... are you saying my bike is wired as per the spec... In that LH switch is purely a feed to the main lighting circuit? (and as I described)

If so, I feel a mod coming on...

Ta,
Simon

Ash... speechless at your tech knowledge. School told me rubber came from trees in Malaysia & signed the topic off there... they woefully let me down!

A big thanks to this thread... my K2 was lately popping at idle... one of those jobs I kept forgetting. Anyways, took a mini socket to all 8 inlet clamps yesterday... every bloody one took a turn or more. Job done... fantastic.

Slight topic drift Ash... but you're the man... storage... better to spray WD40 over the metal parts... or silicon? My bro-in-law telling me WD40 overspray can degrade plastics / rubber, whereas silicone won't. Comments?

Ta,
Simon