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Messages - MrDavo
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1261
« on: October 28, 2015, 10:53:34 AM »
Thanks Dennis I'll give that a go. It's a leap of faith to irrevocably destroy the old seal with the screw, but I can see there will be much more purchase on it than using my little dental pick.
1262
« on: October 27, 2015, 11:00:31 AM »
You should not vapour blast a engine
I am where I am with it, which is why I need advice on whether to clean or paint. I'm not 100% sure its vapour blasted or what, but that's the nearest finish I'm familiar with to what I've got. It was done a long time ago and hasn't corroded though, which you would have expected with virgin alloy. that said it lived abroad where the climate is dry. At least I have dropped the oil pan and found no dirt, beads or whatever, but looking up from the sump plate, with a torch, the insides of the motor look the same as the outside - very silver with no lacquering from use . At least they did a good job of masking the gasket surfaces, I once had (from an autojumble) some BSA A10 cases that had been blasted, and every gasket face and threaded hole was ruined - result, scrap!
1263
« on: October 27, 2015, 10:47:04 AM »
Thanks very much for having a look for the stop valve seal Trigger. That said, since I dismantled and cleaned the pump, and refitted it with 4 new O-rings last week, its stopped draining into the sump! I just went out to the garage, and the level is exactly where it was 4 days ago when I last ran the bike.  maybe that would work for you, OP, or fit Trigger's stop valve seal. Maybe my stop valve piston wasn't moving freely, or maybe the flat and hard O-rings were leaking, but that seems to be fixed for now, so I'll leave well alone. thanks again for the offer, though. Interesting that you are getting a leak from the tacho drive, El__burro, I have a slight leak and when I rode the bike I seemed to get a bit of a fog on the glass of the tacho as if it is breathing down the cable. I have a new seal, but with the drive spindle in place, I can only pick at the old seal with my dental pick and damage it more, I couldn't shift it. I'm guessing I may need to go medieval on it and cut it or get a self tapper in there. The downside is that once I start I'll have to see it through, and if unsuccessful the only way to get the drive spindle out is with the cam cover off and the engine out, as far as I can see.
1264
« on: October 26, 2015, 11:32:19 AM »
This is related to my other thread in this section, re polishing a vapour blasted alloy surface which should be gloss, but this topic is how to keep my engine clean? - vapour blasted and looking like new is all very fine, but sooner or later my CB750 is going to be used in typical filthy British weather, ridden accross muddy fields at rallies etc.
Once it has got filthy, how best to bring it back like new - solvents, alloy cleaners, Gunk? or what? Any sort of abrasion would ruin the matt silver finish I now have. Leaving crud on to bake I am sure would stain the cases / fins etc forever, no?
I will try and avoid the dreaded road salt, but you can't use a bike and do that forever.
I could even paint it matt silver over the blasted surface, but to spray it properly the engine would need to come out, and that's not going to happen until it definitely has to, I want to ride it first.
1265
« on: October 23, 2015, 12:34:12 PM »
they are available and I do sell to members. I had some in stock but, have just ran out 
Not available then!  Do give us a heads up if more surface, ta.
1266
« on: October 23, 2015, 11:03:22 AM »
Easy to put too much in if you do it when the bike is stone cold and plenty of oil is hiding in the sump.
There is a valve in the oil pump, a spring loaded piston with a rubber seal at one end, which is meant to keep the oil upstairs in the tank when the bike isn't running. Mine looks OK but clearly isn't as the oil level in the tank drops considerably as the bike stands.
Apparently the seal is made of unobtanium, I have registered an interest with David Silver who will email me if it ever becomes available again.
1267
« on: October 23, 2015, 09:47:58 AM »
Correct on both counts, what confuses me is that switches on Fleabay advertised as genuine are black too. The red one I have just fitted came off a K2 engine, the wire boot and screw all look original so I am assuming that the switch is too. The old switch will be going on a shelf in my living room, to join a collection of small broken parts from blown up race bikes, crashes etc. In the spring I had a similar drama with my 30 year old 911 - out on a drive in Buxton I stopped at a set of lights and was overtaken by a cloud of blue smoke, which I realized to my horror was mine! Looking underneath there was oil everywhere, and the red 'idiot' light had come on on the dash. I'm thinking mega pound signs and engine out just for starters. Any other car I would have switched off and called out the AA, but an aircooled Porsche has 3 oil gauges, for level, temperature and pressure, and they were all normal. It turned out the fault was with the idiot light switch, which when they fail leak oil which is under pressure. Yet again someone on an internet forum helped me out, and I fixed it myself for £17. I shudder to think how much a garage might have charged me to sort that one out.  The test ride went fine, I love the noise the HM300s make on the over-run!
1268
« on: October 22, 2015, 12:39:10 PM »
That's not the oil pressure relief valve, but relief at having some oil pressure!
Last Friday I had my first ride on the K1, to get an MOT on the frame number (she passed, advisory was one loose spoke at the back, which shows they were thorough). About 5 miles, she ran as sweet as a nut, but on the way back the oil light started to come on idling at traffic lights, then took more and more revs to go out. The nearer home I got the more the light came on, I limped back onto the drive seriously worried, and already trying to work out how and when the motor was coming out.
After some internet research (not a euphemism, for a change), I decided to check the oil pump O-rings, I think the bike was restored years ago, but barely used since (and I started to wonder if low oil pressure was why) and everything rubber on the bike is hard or perished - for safety's sake I changed the inner tubes as well as the tyres, and the cracked fuel lines - I'm waiting for the fuel cap gasket as that leaks now I have a fullish tank. The pump O-rings were Ok, but hard and flat, so I ordered a new set from David Silver at Stafford Show, they came yesterday, and I fitted them last night.
The wife came home late yesterday to find me despondent - O-rings fitted and oil replaced, I fired her up, the oil light went out, then came back on at idle, the warmer she got the higher the revs needed to make it go out. I checked for oil at the number 4 tappet cover, fine, but by I switched off she needed 2,000 rpm plus to extinguish the light. By now I'm thinking mains - the motor all seems freshly rebuilt, but mistakes can be made.
The last throw of the dice today was to try a second hand oil light switch I bought for £4 at Stafford show, mainly because I wanted the rubber boot, which is missing on my bike.
I am here to tell you how releived I am - the light goes out as soon as I fire her up, and stays out until I switch off. Ladies and gentlemen, we have oil pressure!
As I'm waiting for the DVLA to process my registration application (why do I expect that they are going to send the forms back with some new problem?) I can't legally go for a test ride unless I book another MOT, but I may be sneaking out later for a quick test after accidentally fitting the plate off another bike. Don't try his at home.
1269
« on: October 20, 2015, 11:55:24 AM »
I fancy a set of Progressive fork springs over the winter, they did wonders for my HD 1200 Sportster, which was very softly sprung from new. Has anyone experience of these springs?
1270
« on: October 20, 2015, 10:09:10 AM »
If David Silver wasn't there then who did I pay for my oil pump seals, and should I stop waiting for the postman to come? They were in the hall which is at the back as you go into the main exhibition space - the guy who served me was impressed that I'd brought my own parts book with me, so he didn't have to look the numbers up. They didn't have a lot of stock with them, but were doing an offer of £1 delivery, whatever you bought. Not as good for my oil seals but if you bought some serious metalwork...
A couple of nice candy blue green K0's there, the owner of one looking a bit suspiciously at me, I was looking closely to spot if all the bolts were 'number 8' ones or not, a few of mine have been changed to new plated ones with modern markings on them, and I'm sad enough to care.
Outside there were some lads from Stockport who I know, they'd been camping in a box trailer (that they'd brought all their bike bits in) that was full of sleeping bags. They sold a CB750 K2 bottom end cheap, but not before I'd bought the oil pressure switch off it for £4, mainly for the rubber boot which I don't have, but also so I have a spare switch.
One of the highlights for me was outside in the 'paddock' hearing the Laverda V6 run, and a CR750 replica, shame they didn't fire up Sammy Miller's V8 Guzzi. Like Mick I went on Sunday, straight in and out, no queue.
1271
« on: October 15, 2015, 10:59:14 AM »
A friend of mine once went to the Police depot in Manchester to pick up his stolen CB900, and got another one for spares free - they were recovered from a lockup together, and the Police cleared up two crimes for the price of one.
He didn't protest too much, in fact I bought the 'spare' off him for spare parts- it would have been a pain to register, but I had a CB900 lowrider on the road at the time.
1272
« on: October 12, 2015, 11:25:05 AM »
I only know about it from the Simpsons, as Marge's sisters Pattie and Selma's lives used to revolve around watching McGyver.
1273
« on: October 08, 2015, 06:42:59 PM »
I'll try the hairdryer (when the Mrs is out, same as the recent heatshrink sleeving) it may save buying a new sticker.
That US thread has a glimpse of a black sticker on a gold K1, forward of the fuel cap. Mine is white, which looks right to me with Candy Green / Blue.
For some bizarre reason my bike came with the oil tank sticker on the side of the tank rather than the top, that got ruined getting it off, the new sticker came from Spain, via eBay.
1274
« on: October 08, 2015, 05:35:18 PM »
A photo would be good, of the sticker where Soichiro intended it to be....
1275
« on: October 08, 2015, 04:34:40 PM »
Interesting Chris, thanks. I see they think like I do that something got lost in translation. The Preserve Nature decals were not used on the CB750 K1 until the start of frame number: CB750-1103001. Mine is a 'General export' bike, starting CB750-1110, so should have the sticker then, I just have to confirm where - not the end of the world if its in the wrong place, anyone who's upset by it is sadder than me, BUT, once I know, it will bug me every time I see it, until I move it, that is....
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