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Messages - kthree
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1
« on: January 08, 2020, 09:11:41 PM »
You can fit K series carbs quite easily. You'll need new throttle cables (slightly shorter), and set of K series carb boots. Plus you'll throw away your current choke set up
Not sure about the airbox setup - it might still line up, but if not, you might have to go with pod filters.
Hope this helps.
2
« on: January 08, 2020, 09:04:09 PM »
Try JT Marks Store on ebay. He has a good inventory of Honda stuff.
3
« on: January 08, 2020, 09:03:04 PM »
I've had a go at this recently and didn't find it too daunting. I bought all new seals and gaskets from Mike Nixon @ motorcycle project and a small ultrasonic cleaner from a local car parts store. I only used genuine honda parts ( float needle valve and seats) most other parts can simply be cleaned, as they don't actually wear out. I kept all parts in a compartment box so each item went back to the same carb, used JIS screwdrivers only, and took a slow, methodical approach.
Yes, there is a small vent hole on the side of the carb bodies which I found while throttle cleaner fluid and running compressed air through all vents and jet openings - you ensure it's clear this way. Carbs are now clean and ready to go. BUT, I've yet to fit them and see if or how they run!
Fingers crossed!
4
« on: October 13, 2019, 07:42:20 AM »
Thanks.
I've heard the standard airbox is definitely the way to go so I have found one in good conditions. Carbs have been disassembled, soda blasted, all parts ultra-sonic cleaned and reassembled with new gaskets and seals throughout. So with standard airbox and filter, an 836 kit in the K7 motor and a reasonably open 4 into 1 exhaust system -does anyone have any clues on the optimum jetting setup?
5
« on: October 12, 2019, 11:19:43 AM »
Hi all. I have a rebuilt Honda K7 motor currently fitted with a set of Kehins with cheap POD air filters.
The original K7 card set up was PD42 pumper style carbs. I have a set of them and an airbox to suit.
I'm told the full airbox is the way to go - but which carbs will give the best performance.
Any points of view on which will be the better carbs to run with?
Cheers and thanks.
G
6
« on: July 30, 2019, 01:32:38 AM »
The leak appears to be on the seam somewhere.
7
« on: July 29, 2019, 11:45:47 AM »
Sorry for the confusion.
The leak is coming from the large casting plug that is directly below the transmission.
It's approx 65mm diameter and is not designed to be removed.
My concern is that welding the area will warp the case so I'm thinking of sealing the inside with JP Weld.
Will the JB stand the test of time living at the base of the transmission or might it come loose and stuff up the motor?
Anyone had any experience with this kind of issue?
Thanks
8
« on: July 28, 2019, 12:08:12 PM »
Hi all.
Have had a persistent oil leak around the big casting plug on my lower engine case. I've tried external repair using JB Weld which slowed it down, but still it persists.
Long story short I have now pulled the motor and have the offending case off the engine. All cleaned up, I tested the area by pouring a little oil around the plug on the inside of the case and left it to sit for a while. Sure enough, the leak appeared again. So now I know exactly where the problem is.
My question is, what next?
Is it safe to try and weld a repair? Would an application of JB Weld on the inside of the case be safer or a threat to clean oil in the future?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
9
« on: June 17, 2019, 10:35:19 AM »
BBCEE - v - BBBBB
So does that mean the two B journals will be a match?
Thanks
10
« on: June 17, 2019, 09:35:40 AM »
Thanks for the reply. That all makes sense.
I've yet to pull the motor so will check those numbers when I do.
Fingers crossed.
Thanks
11
« on: June 17, 2019, 03:26:46 AM »
Hi all.
I'm new here and this is my first question, hope you can help.
I have a fully rebuilt Supersport motor that has a slow and very annoying oil leak from a so far unfindable source. The motor has only been run in the workshop and has no miles on it. There is evidence of a thrown chain and some dodgy welding repair so the cases are kind of suspect.
So I have sourced another set of Supersport (Black motor) cases in good condition and plan to swap all the new internals from the rebuilt motor into the new cases. My main question is do I need to measure and plastigauge all the main journals again or should the existing bearings slot right into the new cases?
In other words can I assume that all the cast cases all the same size and the bearing measurements are around crank shaft journal wear?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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