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Messages - mattsz
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31
« on: September 07, 2020, 08:35:19 PM »
Bump. Would someone with original hardware be willing to measure the ID, OD and thickness of the washer on the top shock mount?
Mine are about 10mm ( probably 10.3) ID, 21mm OD and about 1mm thick. OD of stud after threaded bit about 16mm. So I think you need to find some washers say 17mm ID and 21mm OD to take up the space as well as the original size washer to butt up against the shoulder.
Thank you Cliff! Can you tell me, does the acorn nut and washer actually tighten down against the shock top, or the bushing? Or does it tighten against the unthreaded spindle, leaving the shock top and spindle loose?
32
« on: September 07, 2020, 01:38:17 PM »
Bullet dodged! 
33
« on: September 07, 2020, 01:10:40 PM »
Bump. Would someone with original hardware be willing to measure the ID, OD and thickness of the washer on the top shock mount?
34
« on: September 06, 2020, 10:22:16 PM »
The black colouration after using Evaporust was what I read on some reviews.
Evaporust does not leave a coating. I used it in my tank, which was in pretty good shape, but not perfect. It did a really nice job. After rinsing and drying, I tossed in a pint or so of kerosene (paraffin) and shook it all around to completely coat the inside, then drained all I could. It kept rust from reforming for the last 4 months...
35
« on: September 06, 2020, 11:35:13 AM »
So pleased for you that its running. 
I plan to be where you are by the end of this month.
I know I bought mine with a declared cam chain rattle - I just don't want any other nasty sounds.
When the frame is being powder coated I will then sort out the cam rattle, take the head off, check piston tops etc.
Thanks Macabethiele! And, sorry for cluttering up your shiny new project thread with all that petcock talk, we really should have moved it somewhere else!  My time-frame has been a bit longer than yours... I got the bike almost 2 years ago! And I haven't done any major work on the engine, it's just been puttering with many, many odds and ends just to get the bike road-worthy to see if the engine works...
37
« on: September 05, 2020, 07:20:11 PM »
Got me a bit worried again now...
I've got three 400 tanks and all have a 20 x 1.5mm thread on the underside but everyone I check with only do a 16mm tap for the 400.
Googling to extreme boredom the only option I could find was one from the US - from 4 into 1 - which I ordered and is somewhere in transit at the moment.
Real pain if this turns out to be no good 4into1 sells 2 different size petcocks for 400's: the 20mm x 1.25 for '75-'76 models, and 14mm x 1.0 for '77 models - both "genuine" Honda and aftermarket currently in stock for both sizes. The 14mm one fits my '77 USA tank. Do you know which size you ordered?
38
« on: September 05, 2020, 06:02:54 PM »
I really can't see what or why there is a difference in the original part though for USA/ Canada markets 🤔🤔It could always be an error in the original parts list translation, there are plenty of them in the parts manual.
I can't either. The "multi" parts manual I referenced earlier even has a separate "exclusive parts for each area" section which details some of the USA F2's idiosyncratic differences - like the single-stayed front fender, the different foot brake and shift linkages, the exhaust header attachment collars, the hideous fuel filler "door" - and the apparently non-serviceable (riveted?) petcock...
(Attachment Link)
Have you asked the 400/4 owners on the USA forum what tap they have fitted?
Nope!  I hadn't given it any thought - until just a couple of days ago when my brand-new (but cheap aftermarket) petcock I got from 4into1 demonstrated its inability to keep fuel in the tank...
39
« on: September 05, 2020, 05:52:49 PM »
I really can't see what or why there is a difference in the original part though for USA/ Canada markets 🤔🤔It could always be an error in the original parts list translation, there are plenty of them in the parts manual.
I can't either. The "multi" parts manual I referenced earlier even has a separate "exclusive parts for each area" section which details some of the USA F2's idiosyncratic differences - like the single-stayed front fender, the different foot brake and shift linkages, the exhaust header attachment collars, the hideous fuel filler "door" - and the apparently non-serviceable (riveted?) petcock... [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
40
« on: September 05, 2020, 04:56:10 PM »
The eBay link you posted above Matt is the same fuel tap that DS sells for the 400/4.I did cross reference the DS part number a minute ago and I see it fits loads of different Hondas. I wouldn't know if the original one I posted a link to on CMS would fit a USA / Canada model, I must admit, I thought all the original taps were the same on all market models but maybe not 🤔
Edit.... Just looked and the USA/ Canada original tap is the same part number as every other market
(Attachment Link)
I don't know about all market models either! I'm definitely no expert here - although I have learned a lot about the differences between the '77 USA and all the other models... I do know that CSML's 1977 USA listing shows a different part number, and a different-looking petcock, which I showed in my earlier post. That's why I mentioned it - that Ebay link was the OP's, I wanted him to make sure he was really looking at the correct part. If you have a copy of the Honda parts catalog which includes CB400F, CB400F1 and CB400F2 "under one roof" (available in 2 different versions at this link), you'll find the different part number for just the USA/Canada F2 models: 16950-377-701. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
42
« on: September 05, 2020, 02:54:01 PM »
Don't forget a' genuine' part is not an 'original' part. All genuine means in this context is that it fits other Honda's, including the 400 Four
I'm not sure I understand what that means, in terms of a retailer like DSS who is generally offering two types of parts, "genuine" and "aftermarket." As a customer, I think that "genuine" would mean made by Honda, or by the manufacturer that originally made them for Honda (which DSS appears to call "OEM Replacement").
If "genuine" simply means that it fits, couldn't any part - even an aftermarket pattern part - that fits be called "genuine?"
No, the 'genuine' parts that the likes of DS sell are genuine Honda parts but that is all it means. If you are looking for a replacement for an item on your bike to replace what was fitted when new, you need an original part. Genuine just means it's genuine Honda , will fit as a replacement part, usually to lots of different Honda models, and do the job but it is not the same as the original part.
After market (pattern) means its made by anyone else, not Honda and is obviously not identical to the original part fitted to the bike but, it does the job.
Ah, ok - that's different...
43
« on: September 05, 2020, 02:28:53 PM »
Don't forget a' genuine' part is not an 'original' part. All genuine means in this context is that it fits other Honda's, including the 400 Four
I'm not sure I understand what that means, in terms of a retailer like DSS who is generally offering two types of parts, "genuine" and "aftermarket." As a customer, I think that "genuine" would mean made by Honda, or by the manufacturer that originally made them for Honda (which DSS appears to call "OEM Replacement"). If "genuine" simply means that it fits, couldn't any part - even an aftermarket pattern part - that fits be called "genuine?"
44
« on: September 05, 2020, 01:47:39 PM »
Personally don’t like the look of the eBay petcock as it’s riveted together - tho’ in truth should not be a big deal I guess. As a general comment, the more you deviate from OEM parts the harder your bike becomes to maintain... as any adjoining part then needs a bit of modification to fit. (bladder bone connected to the kidneys bone as it were 😂)
(In this case the hose dia may be different to the carbs?)
Cheers,
Simon
I can't find a petcock that isn't riveted together. DSS is offering a "genuine" one for £47 - it's riveted and in fact looks identical to less expensive one I got from 4into1... which leaked the first time I used it, BTW...  EDIT: I'm talking about the '77 USA version...
45
« on: September 04, 2020, 08:35:29 PM »
Update - the manual adjustment bolt came last night. It was a bit fiddly, but today I was able to get it installed and found a way to get some tools on it without burning myself. It seems to have worked quite well - I slowly tightened down on the adjustment screw and the rattle slowly quieted down: https://youtu.be/GEFcueAWPXMI'm not sure if this is where it really wants to be, but it's so much quieter after tightening just a bit that I'm going to ride it a few miles and see what happens...
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