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Messages - Martin6
16
« on: February 29, 2024, 10:43:43 PM »
Good shout K2-K6 and well done Martin for finding it - I take little joy from doing electrics even more so if I think it's all done then they start causing a new fault.
👍 Cleaned up, soldered and running again. http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyleds.htm or 01494 868218. Not used him, but I know people who are happy with what he advised they go for on their Nortons. Would have thought our Honda headlamps are similar enough for him to have a recommendation.
17
« on: February 29, 2024, 05:29:34 PM »
Yep, I found it. It was the single red terminal on the back of the key switch. 👍
18
« on: February 28, 2024, 03:05:23 PM »
Martin,
thanks for your input and good to know you're getting out and about on your Honda.
I'm still using the original rectifier and voltage regulator on my CB750F1, but did once have have an overcharging problem which I fixed with info gleaned from this forum. (But that's maybe for another subject thread).
However my new battery and charging system now works exactly as it should, I fitted a voltage meter to keep an eye on it.
Sometimes I do stuff without considering the consequences such as fitting the halogen headlight bulb.
As Bryan mentions the generator needs high revs, but that's not always possible in city stop/start traffic so it's not enough to replenish the battery voltage lost whilst idling at standstill.
Also I have a Boyer electronic ignition system fitted which apparently cuts out if the battery voltage is too low.
So I've learned the hard way that the charging system can just about cope in city traffic when the bike is in standard original spec.
Anyhow all this has been gone over in a previous thread where Julie mentions what I've just learned!
So back to the original thread subject, I'm hoping LED bulbs should help lower the power loss in city traffic.
Skoti, pride comes before a fall... started the bike this morning and plugged in my heated jacket and it died. No lights, no starter. Dead. Fuses are OK. So I'm dusting off my wiring diagram. It serves me right! Too much load somewhere. Should have known better! 
19
« on: February 27, 2024, 10:26:40 PM »
I managed a morning's ride with a heated jacket and heated gloves plugged into my bike. Running your battery down just due to dipped headlights doesn't seem right to me? Maybe check your battery or charging system is ok?
20
« on: January 29, 2024, 10:17:21 AM »
No one is looking, they never were. We may hope they are, but they're really not. Nowadays their phones are much more interesting. 
21
« on: January 28, 2024, 01:11:42 PM »
I don't notice any issue with the gear change. Better than my modern BMW boxer. Probably not a high benchmark  It's definitely the front wheel and only on bigger lean angles at speed. I have refurbished the front shocks, including replacing a bent stanchion, plus new steering bearings. I have Hagons on the rear, which are a huge improvement and modern Avons front and rear, feel pretty good. Despite less squat than with the previous rear shocks, I think the front : rear weight balance is probably causing a slightly too light front wheel on acceleration.
22
« on: January 27, 2024, 11:32:04 PM »
You will find Genuine and Haynes manuals here in my dropbox links. a combination of all of them is what I used.
HONDA CB750 SOHC FOUR
...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/w128vp6hqpxgpyr/HondaCR750partslist.pdf?dl=0
CB750 1970 Test MCM
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4zwa2q1lpk3s63r/CB750%201970%20UK%20report.pdf?dl=0...
Thanks for reminding us of those links. That old MCM road test was interesting, and helpful. Since my cylinder head and carbs rebuild, I've been riding my K6 (in our recent pretty cold weather) and finding it a bit rough running when cold, for at least the first half mile or so. Something they commented on in the report. I've also needed choke to re-start, after it has stood for half an hour, or so. I guess part of the same issue. I also sensed some bar wobble when leaned over, coming out of bends and coming on the throttle. Seems like that's what they comment on in the report, too. Wish I'd read this before I jacked the front up, to check everything is tight, without play . Can't comment on the 125mph claim (chest on the tank). However, I have found, following the rebuild, when i repeated the test I did pre-rebuild, I was 10mph faster at the marker point  Not sure I agree with their view of the front brake performance, but 50 years has seen impressive development by manufacturers on that score. An interesting read. Thanks. 👍
23
« on: January 22, 2024, 11:04:08 PM »
I suspect the cause of "Thread Drift" is related to the cold winter nights - as many of us are not actively doing much bike work in the cold we trawl this site looking for things to say or comment on.
One mention of the likes of Pink Floyd - we are drifting further than Phil on his Yacht when the wind has dropped. 
I managed to get out on my bike today, for a post carb synch shakedown. Ran very well. No bogging down, no oil leaks and, for the first time since I've owned it, all the plugs look similar, clean and non-sooty. The bike has fought me a lot of the way, so I'm not assuming anything just yet. But I allowed myself a self satisfied little pat on the back, for now. p.s. I hung the Sealey tank from the rafters about a foot above normal tank height. It worked well. p.p.s. The Clash and The Cure, never really got Pink Floyd
24
« on: January 21, 2024, 09:08:05 AM »
What, can't have this. Everyone's in agreement! Quick, someone start an oil thread... 👍
25
« on: January 20, 2024, 09:49:50 AM »
Google Paul Goff. He's respected in classic bike circles. I'm OEM on my bikes, so not used him, but know of others happy with his advice and products. http://www.norbsa02.freeuk.com/goffyleds.htm
26
« on: January 19, 2024, 11:02:47 PM »
I'm with Ted here. The greater the height, the greater the potential energy, which is converted to pressure on the float needle. There will come a point that the pressure is sufficient that the force is greater than the force exerted by the flotation of the floats. At that point, the float needle overcomes the floats and petrol rushes in. I don't have the maths to calculate the force required, (clockwise moments = anticlockwise, etc.) but my rafters aren't particularly high and my rope is longer than my spare fuel line
27
« on: January 19, 2024, 12:38:25 PM »
Thank you, ordered the Sealey version, to hook on the rafters. 👍
28
« on: January 19, 2024, 08:36:39 AM »
Martin,
You need to renew the needle jets as well, they are a press fit into the carb body under the emulsion tube you refer to.
Just tap them out with a pin punch from the top.
The needles will be worn as well, when compared to new ones you will see the lower part shiny where it enters the needle jet.
Genuine Honda needle kit 16012 392 004
I change mine at 12-15000 miles, by that time the consumption has gone up and it'll start almost without choke.
Good luck
Skoti
Does that kit work for a K6, do you know?
29
« on: January 19, 2024, 05:38:37 AM »
OK, thank you.
I will have another look at the carbs. I used a carb refurb kit when I first got the bike (as it was non-running) from David Silver. I kept the needles, jets and screws the carbs came to me with, so I'll clean them and the carbs and try the old ones again. No idea whether they're original Keihin brass though. I suppose it's possible, but unlike,y after 47 years and 42,000 miles!
....
I dusted off the needles and jets I had taken out of my carbs, when I replaced them with the refurbishment kit from David Silver (Keyster branded). I ŵas surprised to see the difference in the profile of the main jet needles. The old ones are a thicker diameter. I assume, at identical height setting, the old needles will allow a lower volume of fuel through, compared to the replacements. I thought this might explain the rich exhaust at open throttle and the bogging down. The jets and emulsion tubes look the same. I left the new jets in and went back to the old (clean) needles and emulsion tubes. Initial runs show an improvement. Must say, if this does solve it, I'm a bit annoyed that something sold as a direct replacement has caused me to chase my tail for 6 months. When the weather warms up a bit, I'll look at carb balance. I was close on the workbench, but it shows signs of the revs hunting a bit on tickover. I have spare fuel line, can anyone recommend a solution for a remote fuel reservoir? I'd prefer to keep my tank safely out of the way!
30
« on: January 04, 2024, 04:43:10 PM »
Best wishes to you. A very generous gesture.
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