Post by: mickandsej on June 15, 2020, 07:06:29 PM
As bought;
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200615/aa509c64a538686c259aaa8db2e9ea61.jpg)
Dunstall exhaust, carbs properly cleaned from this state
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200615/f8d3c0d7c77f0336c5f401b231641e84.plist)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200615/951e0807c7d06635cd3177c48e9d6518.plist)
Sourced a tank...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200615/e08f0991ec552605af38c49dbb2956ce.plist)
Gave it a once over for now with Rostio and cellulose Porsche Conda Green
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200615/b4d60585745f8c98e159ec8146ceb4b4.plist)
After rebuilding the carbs, cleaning the entire fuel system, replacing a bodge points plate with a good used one, still wouldn’t run or even start. Pulled the plugs and put the used ones that were in the tool tray back in and off she went! No4 cyl still not playing ball but I can hear a stray spark under the tank, so checking the HT leads as soon as I can cobble up a temporary tank - I’ve drained the 750 tank and I’m waiting for the Rostio enamel to dry..
It has been buggered about with in the recent past, cheap Chinese points self tapped into the plate, crimps on the LT leads, possibly wrong coil, definitely wrong plugs! Loads of iffy wiring to be sorted. Just trying to get it running reliably, enjoy a few rides over the summer then plan the works over the winter.
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Post by: Johnwebley on June 16, 2020, 08:49:27 AM
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Post by: mickandsej on June 17, 2020, 10:19:58 AM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200617/002b021e903c9e7d9a77acea44d99518.plist)
Post by: mickandsej on June 17, 2020, 07:18:00 PM
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Post by: mickandsej on June 17, 2020, 07:19:25 PM
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Post by: Johnwebley on June 17, 2020, 07:24:55 PM
Disconnect one at a time a see if there any drag.
Check the friction screw on the twistgrip.
Those are the simple things.
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Post by: florence on June 17, 2020, 07:41:48 PM
Post by: mickandsej on June 20, 2020, 11:31:04 AM
Threw it together and after forgetting to turn the fuel on and spluttering to a halt after 1/2 mile..... she runs lovely. Not that revvy, I’m learning to plan my acceleration, I’m very happy. Need to sort the front brake as not that good, but considering it’s lack of use everything runs freely. Had her up to 75 with no drama, that’ll do for me :-)
I know it looks different but it’s what I’ve got and I’m pleased so far!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200620/b872138cefb975aada69683c63a84fe9.plist)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200620/78db8d141ee39ebb06a894699efe8045.plist)
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Post by: SPR on June 20, 2020, 12:05:00 PM
Post by: K2-K6 on June 20, 2020, 12:16:18 PM
Looks good too, would like to hear how those pipes sound :D
To add something to the heavy throttle concerns, Honda specify quite a bit of slack in the twist grip which is only adjusted by the pull cable. If you take this out, the two cables having different run routes will conflict and significantly raise the effort needed at the twistgrip.
As a check for this, rotate the steering to full lock both sides at which you should still be able to feel rotational slack with the grip.
Post by: mickwinf on June 20, 2020, 01:05:33 PM
Post by: mickandsej on June 20, 2020, 03:08:22 PM
I was only discussing this the other day - didn’t racing vehicles look so much cooler when they had fag labels all over them?
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Post by: mickandsej on June 20, 2020, 03:11:44 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200620/0128508b03e488523e643184471f7346.plist)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200620/326e5587bb19f539d4eb526ddeed6669.plist)
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Post by: mickandsej on June 23, 2020, 11:21:03 AM
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Post by: mickandsej on June 26, 2020, 09:47:57 PM
New OEM coils, plug caps, brake lines, headstock bearings, fork seals, gaiters, throttle cables, caliper seals, sourced a used factory manual (brilliant), getting the rolling chassis sorted at the moment. K1 tank off for proper repair, 750 tank back on for now. General wipe down and degrease whilst it’s on the lift, lubed tacho/speedo cables etc etc
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Post by: Bryanj on June 27, 2020, 07:35:52 AM
Post by: mickandsej on June 27, 2020, 08:00:08 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200627/45f4a35f07113f9ac66b21f16dbc585a.png)
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Post by: Bryanj on June 27, 2020, 09:16:22 AM
Post by: mickandsej on June 27, 2020, 11:02:31 AM
Made a ball catcher rig
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200627/c3f796f0fed518cd2ee119c6cda6cb92.jpg)
These vinyl wrap magnets have been invaluable on loads of projects, expensive for what they are but bloody useful
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200627/3c12856d72b3173ff2020a6e32049872.jpg)
Only problem was 17 balls top, 17 bottom so a bit short. The races are chewed so I can’t re use anything. More bodgery betrayed by the loose lock ring, although there was no slop, only grumbling.
I can also recommend this liquid for degreasing, far better than its intended use, at 20% alcohol it kinda interferes with the D&A policy at work, and it stings!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200627/48102bc3bb1e0e5e14f1530c578be124.jpg)
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Post by: mickandsej on June 29, 2020, 11:54:43 PM
The new coils fitted best with the HT leads pointing forwards, is it best to run the leads back over the rocker box and p clip them there? Can they be cut? I’ve also found a light green wired female bullet, looks OEM, under the coils, and I don’t know what it’s for!
I’ve also laid a fused heavy wire from the solenoid to the headlight bowl, and ordered some micro relays so I can beef up the lights & horn.
New pads ordered as the half worn ones were sticking in the caliper and a bit chewed up. Piston good just new seal and rattle can job to do. New hoses and line to go on as old one was rock hard.
Got to replace the throttle cables, stripped down and found lithium grease on the grip end, is it ok to regrease when refitting?
Tacho cable screw stripped in the head so that’ll have to stay there for now.
Still enjoying it, I’m getting more disciplined with hobbying it rather than working against the clock :-)
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Post by: Bryanj on June 30, 2020, 07:11:23 AM
Post by: mickandsej on June 30, 2020, 09:29:41 AM
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Post by: Bryanj on June 30, 2020, 09:34:40 AM
Ive done 3 in the last month, all had solid brake fluid crud in the seal corners
Post by: hairygit on June 30, 2020, 09:47:22 AM
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Post by: Johnwebley on June 30, 2020, 09:49:41 AM
Make sure the seal groove in caliper is surgicaly clean especialy in the corners. Dental picks or similar are bestYou can use an old broken ring to clean the groove
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Post by: deltarider on June 30, 2020, 11:05:34 AM
... don't forget to clean and grease the pivot...Mwah.. I'd check its movement first. If it swings nicely like mine still does after 44 years, I'd leave it alone.
Post by: florence on June 30, 2020, 12:13:50 PM
Post by: mickandsej on June 30, 2020, 01:48:53 PM
Having a look at the ignition switch harness, I think you’d call it hotwired.... Surprised it even ran like this!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200630/b4acb9ca2d361834a2cdb92fb7bdc369.jpg)
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Post by: Rozabikes Tim on June 30, 2020, 02:09:02 PM
Post by: Oggie400F on June 30, 2020, 02:20:01 PM
Consensus wins
Having a look at the ignition switch harness, I think you’d call it hotwired.... Surprised it even ran like this!
[img width=750 height=1000]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200630/b4acb9ca2d361834a2cdb92fb7bdc369.jpg[/img
I had exactly the same issue with my 500 ignition switch.
Nothing that a bit of soldering and heat shrink sleeve won’t cure.
See the link. http://www.sohc.co.uk/index.php/topic,22507.0.html
Post by: mickandsej on June 30, 2020, 02:36:46 PM
obviously ditching the speaker wires for the correct colours. Did the K2 have it on the bars or the frame? Got me thinking now!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: florence on June 30, 2020, 02:43:35 PM
Post by: mickandsej on June 30, 2020, 03:26:30 PM
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Post by: mickandsej on June 30, 2020, 05:33:37 PM
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Post by: mickandsej on July 01, 2020, 06:17:52 PM
Relocated ignition switch to under tank.
Tidied up wiring loom under tank, added a fused heavy positive lead up to the headlight and fitting micro relays for horn, headlight (H4 conversion), and coils. Added an extra earth lead bonded to the frame. Wired horn to/from headlight, same for coil live side. Don’t think my kill switch is the best hence fitting relay, maximise voltage to new coils, caps and plugs. Already sorted static timing and last time out the bike was pulling nicely so should be even better.
Test fitted tank, no wires fouling.
Renewed head races, refitted forks, wheel, waiting on new pads. Rebuilt the caliper yesterday.
Renewed all brake hydraulics down from the master.
Tomorrow refit clocks, fit caliper if pads arrive, start building new sub loom in headlight for the above. Renew throttle cables and route properly. Refit rear mudguard and rewire rear indicators. Replace master fuse holder...
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Post by: Johnwebley on July 01, 2020, 06:31:19 PM
Makes me exhausted just reading the list.
Keep up the good work
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Post by: mickandsej on July 01, 2020, 06:40:23 PM
These are the relays, not as small as I’d hoped but at about a third of the size of normal ones I can fit a few in the headlight bowl!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200701/0a89f01ba4269da93b8d0637b3422099.png)
I’ll fit small blue crimps - remove the insulation then heat shrink over the crimps to hold them in place. I’ve removed loads of twisted wires and a few blue/red crimps and there won’t be any going back on!
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Post by: Bryanj on July 01, 2020, 08:00:44 PM
Post by: deltarider on July 01, 2020, 08:34:04 PM
Post by: Woodside on July 01, 2020, 09:10:21 PM
Did early 500's have a different air box lid.
I know they generally they have a tiny slot for a rubber fuse holder molded in that takes 3 fuses .?
But why 3 fuses ? When the electrical system only had the one in use ...
So have the lids always had a space for the 3 spares
Post by: Nurse Julie on July 01, 2020, 09:27:17 PM
On that noteYes Jason, 3 spares
Did early 500's have a different air box lid.
I know they generally they have a tiny slot for a rubber fuse holder molded in that takes 3 fuses .?
But why 3 fuses ? When the electrical system only had the one in use ...
So have the lids always had a space for the 3 spares
Post by: deltarider on July 02, 2020, 07:32:28 AM
Post by: Woodside on July 02, 2020, 07:51:57 AM
As an electrician for 30 years I was always told when finding a blown fuse to just replace .if it blows again start fault finding ..and when pretty sure you had found said fault try again ......thats 2 fuses gone.
3rd one is possibly to replace the one you dropped and couldn't find ...
Post by: mickandsej on July 02, 2020, 10:06:05 AM
Sounds all poetic doesn’t it
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Post by: deltarider on July 02, 2020, 10:16:52 AM
For those interested, I discovered a minor error in the wiring diagram for the CB550K2 (aka CB550 '76) on p. 172 of the Shop Manual Honda CB500-CB550 http://www.honda4fun.com/pdf_man_officina/pdf_manuali/CB500-550/CB500-550-K_09.pdf. The same error occurs in all three wiring diagrams of the CB500K2 (ED, F, G) aka CB500K2 GENERAL EXPORT. Forsaid wiring diagrams show the 15A main fuse fitted in the middle position. But... it's supposed to be in the last position, closest to the rear. So the order from front to rear should be: 5A, 7A, 15A just like the the cover and its grommet correctly indicate.
Post by: mickandsej on July 02, 2020, 10:22:11 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/c2379efedc14d7c2b1255ba58e350022.jpg)
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Post by: deltarider on July 02, 2020, 11:31:25 AM
The remedy is simple. Compare engine- and framenumber of yours with those listed in the first few pages of the various CB500 Parts Lists. They are all here: http://www.honda4fun.com/materiale-documentazione-tecnica/parts-list/parts-list-cb500 You only have to do this once. For the rest of your life you will know what exact model you have and what you can expect. If you specify, also others here know, which makes it easier to give precise answers. Carb numbers and color codes are also there. For the correct wire diagram you need the 'area code' also found in those pages.
You may find this interactive site also helpful: http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/wiring500.html
Post by: mickandsej on July 02, 2020, 11:41:05 AM
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Post by: mickandsej on July 02, 2020, 03:11:24 PM
So I cheered myself up with a bit of instant bling!
Before:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/59c34c824a5a84f4472f237662732330.jpg)
After:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200702/8bc9f1624a9457ac6a596af7bb314b91.jpg)
Snap on pipe covers
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Post by: Bryanj on July 02, 2020, 04:05:44 PM
Post by: mickandsej on July 02, 2020, 04:30:42 PM
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Post by: Bryanj on July 02, 2020, 05:00:01 PM
Post by: SumpMagnet on July 02, 2020, 05:40:09 PM
In the end, I resorted to a blowtorch.
With the caliper off, but still connected up to a master cylinder, I applied heat around the piston and around the area where the seal was hiding. Once I got it hot....I pumped on the lever...and the thing moved. Soon as it cooled...it was rock solid again.... so I repeated the process until the piston finally released.
Ther ewas a bit of corrosion to clean up in the caliper around the bore.....but once I had got it fettled...all was good.
The piston is in the bin. I had corroded around where the seal had been sat for how ever many years...and would chew up any new seal.
Post by: mickandsej on July 03, 2020, 07:44:57 AM
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Post by: Bryanj on July 03, 2020, 08:25:08 AM
Post by: florence on July 03, 2020, 02:12:29 PM
Post by: mickandsej on July 06, 2020, 08:49:48 AM
Had a good day yesterday doing the wiring, decided to look at the snapped manifold studs. I was waiting to get the bike off the lift as the Dunstall pipes can’t come off whilst it’s on there (they fully wrap around the sump).
Sealey stud remover couldn’t get on the outside no4 stud but with a blow torch and lock nuts I got it off first go, so I did outside 3 stud which was snapped, same result, full of confidence I decided be sensible do all 8, first 6 were fine, inside 3 was tricky, inside 2 was really struggling. Ultimately after all the efforts that is the one that sheared just below the surface. Taking time out to think of the best solution - try and extract it or go straight to Helicoil?
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Post by: Bryanj on July 06, 2020, 09:45:22 AM
Post by: mickandsej on July 06, 2020, 08:25:50 PM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200706/29d695714bcad3abbac3fdb61de55137.plist)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200706/b142c1f623e388f080fab6eeba68c752.plist)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200706/be84ebcef797ca0ef7d3a66fdd204520.plist)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200706/444edbaff2874fa7e0cd2f1f969dbc5c.plist)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200706/5834f7bb8e80cd4344ce2cc3a05fb815.plist)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200706/dbcd266f43f5809b5673a8e001e36832.plist)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200706/22443ffb12694a18eb51c7b9ed70a34c.plist)
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Post by: philward on July 06, 2020, 11:01:44 PM
Start with very small drill and work up, if you can get it central you may be able to rescue the thread when you get to 5mm. Forget easyout, when you break it spark erosion is the only wayPlus 1 with easyout, learned in my early biking years (the hard way!) that a hardened (and hence brittle) easyout is more likely to snap in the stud than move the stud - to get suffient girth of the easyout to grip, the easyout will push the remaining (undrilled wall of the stud) into the head resulting in expanding it into the surrounding ali head. If its snapped just below the surface, you have opportunity to use a 6mm OD bush as a means of centreing the initial pilot drill - giving you a better chance of ending up with just threads left when you get to a 5mm drill.
Post by: philward on July 06, 2020, 11:02:47 PM
Day off the bike today, but my eBay tank arrived and I’m surprised how quick it got here and how good it is, very pleased at just £46 delivered. Having a play with an electrolysis rig overnight, see what happens...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200706/29d695714bcad3abbac3fdb61de55137.plist)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200706/b142c1f623e388f080fab6eeba68c752.plist)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200706/be84ebcef797ca0ef7d3a66fdd204520.plist)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200706/444edbaff2874fa7e0cd2f1f969dbc5c.plist)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200706/5834f7bb8e80cd4344ce2cc3a05fb815.plist)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200706/dbcd266f43f5809b5673a8e001e36832.plist)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200706/22443ffb12694a18eb51c7b9ed70a34c.plist)
Thats a good £46 worth!
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Post by: K2-K6 on July 06, 2020, 11:50:31 PM
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/233581584549?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=233581584549&targetid=908661474856&device=t&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045911&poi=&campaignid=10204056441&mkgroupid=107296324212&rlsatarget=pla-908661474856&abcId=1145987&merchantid=7318514&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_7q8i9m56gIVFuDtCh32qQf4EAsYCSABEgIHVPD_BwE
When drilling with successive larger sizes of drill (starting small and stepping up) each next larger drill has no centering to guide it, the flutes usually grab one side of the bore and make it very difficult to hold it centrally. With one of these if you can access the stud with it, then it will usually stay straight.
Cutting speed at 4mm in mild steel should be about 2000 rpm (from memory) so you need to spin it fast and use low pressure to let it lead you straight.
Post by: mickandsej on July 07, 2020, 10:49:36 AM
The electrolysis seems to be going well, could only connect my leisure batteries overnight but saw results this morning, and since I coupled the charger it’s really getting on with it now. Couldn’t find any soda in the house but I’m using generic Oxy Action laundry fizz stuff, the one in the pink tub. Cheap from Iceland..
Anode looked like this:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200707/4a9ad4e23049a2d5e07525d250b27482.jpg)
I put an old petcock on but it’s weeping so I upended the tank and filled the front half first. I’ll drain it, rinse it and seal the tap then fill her up again for another go this afternoon. This tank is pretty straight so I’m going softly on it for now.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200707/0ac6cca9d81f53a7b79d3f59df90ed3a.plist)
You probably can’t see it but there IS a fuse on the anode!
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