Honda-SOHC

Quick update:

Went to Stafford on Saturday to meet up with people and exchange parts at the show! Usually I don't go to the April show, however I knew that a CR750 guru was going to be there. A bit quiet on the jap front as expected, this was a nice machine:



Picked up a lovely CR clutch lever and cable:



And also saw some extremely rare CR parts, the original TLS rear racing hub, as well as a single leading shoe racing hub. All genuine Honda parts cast in Magnesium:







My next thoughts is how can I go about replicating this hub, and a large chunk of aluminium comes to mind...

Cheers
CR21

Even after the engine cases are clean, you will still have to paint them as oxidation sets in fast. Honda cast alloy is not the best on it comes to corrosion.

Interesting, obviously from an experienced builder like you this is worth definitely noting! Do you think this is the case even if they are vapour blasted / vibropolished and kept clean with something like AC50? The yam castings seem to last well like this but as I have said this is my first Honda!

Cheers,
CR21

Interested in this thread 

Quick update:

Speedo adapter plate sitting in place nicely  Front end fitted with double disks. Really easy 'upgrade' as the fork lowers have bosses, it is just a matter of sourcing a 'mirrored' bracket, disk, caliper and carrying arm and bolting it on along with the modded speedo plate.





I still need to work out the hole drilling and skimming of these disks, and reevaluate whether they need shimming or not. I have read on a couple of forums that the set-up that I have done needs shimming, however as the caliper arms sit at the moment they are parallel to the disk, and I believe that they should function as intended.

To complete the 'front end brake set-up' I need to do the following:

- Create replica splitter block, cables to the lower calipers.
- Cable to the GL1000 master cylinder, with the mirror mount removed, or David silver can supply a very reasonably priced reproduction master cylinder which is suitable to drive twin calipers.

The 'original' bikes had a splitter attached to the horn mount, like below:



I need to look into thread types and spacing if I were to go down this route.

Another concern of mine is these original forks, obviously, my fork stanchions are only suitable for the bin, due to the corrosion at the top. These original forks are very crude and have been named 'pogo sticks' by other builders! A solution to this would be to have the lowers fitted with cartridges and then run reproduction uprated stanchions. It is of course also an option to go down the GL1000 front end, but I was not too keen on this.

Then, of course, it is building up the front wheel. I already have rims, but need to source spokes and need to skim the ribs off of the front hub to replicate the original cotton reel look that the original magnesium part had. I will have the hub vapour blasted and vibratory-polished to try and represent the original 'new cast' finish.

And of course the replica front mudguard, which is a small project in itself! I am planning on making one from an aluminum blade and fabricating the stays - a job for another time!

Extremely pleased with the seat unit, placed this onto the bike yesterday. I need to do the rear frame cutting, cross brace and hoop to accept this seat, and of course the brackets for the catch tank.



Lots to do, but glad the front end is underway!

Cheers!
CR21

Great post! Check out Lordmoonpie exhaust pipes!

Cheers,
CR21

Cheers James!

Seat, currently being made and shipped over to me. Beautiful attention to detail on this part, the 'studs' heat moulding on the seat and profile are spot on, I could not resist  At least this will allow me to finish the seat and tank mountings in one hit:





Cheers
CR21

Just a quick update:

Speedo drive adapter plate machined:





And the filler cap bezel to accept the 'correct' fuelcap:





More to come at the weekend, hopefully front wheel assembly and some movement on the clip-ons!

Cheers,
CR21