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Messages - Seabeowner
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61
« on: November 24, 2023, 07:10:39 PM »
I would think cheaper units are available if you are not worried about originality. I got a unit with the correct side dip and the pilot fitting, but can't remember if it included bulbs, for £8.99 inc. delivery off ebay a couple of years ago Looks good enough on my 78 model.
62
« on: November 24, 2023, 07:01:23 PM »
93201-100-350B £2.21 at DSS and good if you are ordering other bits at same time to save postage.
63
« on: November 22, 2023, 07:04:50 PM »
If it's the only way of sourcing the long mounting studs/bolts the your bike your choice. There are a couple of sets on UK ebay. I'd choose the hex head to look slightly standard.
64
« on: November 22, 2023, 06:54:16 PM »
Rear drum is 180mm dia. on 550. 390 is 550F part no. With the shoes centralised on the backplate, what is the diameter?
65
« on: November 05, 2023, 06:48:38 PM »
That's a bargain Ken, £50 from CMS!
66
« on: October 29, 2023, 06:52:51 PM »
Early 550ks (K0-K2 sold in the US) are like the 500s with the smaller 500 tank. The K3 and 1978K are like the F at a glance but the footrests and rear brake lever and positions are different. Think 550F and 550K3, 1978K side panel mounts are the same, but different to K0-K2. As said as long as you replace tank and seat as a set you are OK. The swept 550F pipes (if you can find any) would probably fit K3 and 1978K, but may need a special bracket for any silencer.
67
« on: October 28, 2023, 07:33:51 PM »
Does look all there, so hopefully not too much work to get it for a runabout for a season. After all bikes are for riding.
Another 550/500 so we have definitely seen off the 400s and even the 750s.
When I was first looking to get a 500 to restore about 22years ago I had trouble finding one. Imports have made them common.
I did get one tool kit out of the three bikes I bought from DK, but it was with the expensive K0 with the early double ring spanner.
68
« on: October 28, 2023, 07:07:59 PM »
All the genuine clutch cables should have the extra outer sleeving that starts nearer the bars end. The black rubber block (grey on early cables) just slides down as far as it goes at the engine end.
All my measurements were outer cable only, including engine end adjuster.
69
« on: October 26, 2023, 07:20:36 PM »
Just to add the pics are with US bars. I have now fitted UK bars and the new cable follows the same route...I think.
70
« on: October 26, 2023, 06:51:50 PM »
These are pictures of my USA K0 as I believe Honda installed it:
Ignore The small wire loom going near the cable in the 2nd picture. This was a standard USA mod where they raised the ignition switch to the bars.
I have three new clutch cables:
Andy Cepok UK type: 1.03m
DS UK type: 1.07m
22870-323-020 still in bag that I think is USA type: 1.12m
I also have a note saying UK type should be 0.99m (3ft 3in)
You can also see the throttle cable passing the other way through the gap above the coils.
71
« on: October 22, 2023, 06:40:31 PM »
Is that wear or just crappy metal? Is it on the nose of the cam?
72
« on: October 19, 2023, 06:41:01 PM »
Make it up as hot as possible. I used it as part three of my cleaning. Insulated the tank to keep it as hot as possible and it was all over in 5hrs.
73
« on: October 13, 2023, 06:28:13 PM »
Or use a screwdriver with a magnetic tip. 😉
Magnetise the one in the tool kit. It's ideal. Also use the tee piece as it will get the tightest ones out without slipping out.
74
« on: October 06, 2023, 06:54:58 PM »
Can't find the bulletin, but did have this:
75
« on: October 01, 2023, 07:21:22 PM »
Ken, I was wondering why there should be a gap between the rim and 1st nut.
Always thought was that you could see if the tube is moving, the valve will tilt. Saves waiting until it tears itself apart.
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