Honda-SOHC
General => New Member Introductions => Topic started by: captaink on July 03, 2015, 08:24:21 PM
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Joined the sohc forum and redirected here as well, so here I am.
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welcome to the europe branch!!
join in and have fun
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welcome to sohc uk style!
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Hi and welcome. U.K group is much better, and most of us cannot abide the yanks love of absurd handlebars, more akin to a wheelbarrow rather than a motorcycle!
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Well, I don't know what to say.
I have bikes with clip ons... I can't ride these for too long
I have bikes that take ages to kick start.. They knacker me out.
I have a bike with American drag bars.the Colorado norton works. It goes with the billet forks...
I have a bike a 1924 norton with bars that are similar to 20s Harley's, swept back.. Very comfortable
Nothing like a wheelbarrow ',,,,,,as yet though
Now I'm restoring the Rickman it's back to clip ons again
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Hi and welcome from me
pete
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Welcome captaink, that's an impressive list of motorcycles, any chance of a few photos of your CR750 I'm not too far away from completing mine, cheers Mark.
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Can't send at moment says file to large, will post some when back on the Computor not this I pad
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Managed to find some smaller files. I never built this bike but it was built very professionally using all the right parts.
Very noisy 838 cc, very noisy
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two more.
Asa Moice ally tanks,
If you need any more pics let me know.
Nice to see some of bike as it is now
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Hello Captaink and welcome to the forum ;) cheers Mick.
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Very nice CR, VERY NICE INDEED.
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Here's an update on the rickman 750 restoration
The wheels have been refurbished in silver instead of the original gold.
All bearings and seals replaced.
Tyres are being fitted within the week.
The brake discs were in pretty good condition but in need of loving care and attention.
There checked for true running and stripped bare.
All bolts are replaced, just waiting for the new nuts.
The Cush drive rubber was as new so it will remain, not sure where I would get one anyway
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The fork legs were in a bad way, the seals were full of silicon sealer, the circlips rusted in solid.
And newspaper stuffed in as a seal
Well that's all gone now and they have been Aqua cleaned, there in good enough condition now to start making them shine and rebuild them.
Not sure where the betor parts will come from but I'll do some hunting around, any assistance appreciated !
Would like to use as much of the original parts as possible.
All the nickel and chrome parts have gone off to the platers as has the frame, they expect a good couple of weeks so I'll fall back onto something else.
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The wing loom has been stripped back to the wires, cleaned and re taped
I'll re use the controls but the gauges are tatty and the cases have dings in them.
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Great work keith, you dont waste anytime , i hope you will keep posting up pictures as you go along, i am well interested
pete
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Shocks replaced for new Hagons
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The inner seat section needed modification to fit the rear section.
The seat pad is fitted to that inner section and will be in leather
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A Sorry looking fuel tank, this has since been shot blasted, powder coated, sealed inside and tested.
New fuel taps were ordered but there not suitable, odd thread size m16 x 1.25 male,
Although powder coated now it will be 2 pack painted to protect against the spillage of fuel. Even though it won't be seen under the fibreglass over cover
Refurbed pictures to follow
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Update on the Rickman build.
All the nickel plating should be back by mid next week !
Picture one. Some of the engine parts are back from cleaning , now you can see the condition better, all looks ok at the moment.
Picture two Tyres are now fitted and partially built.
Picture three I have altered the seat and any redundant holes filled, it will go off to be upholstered in a week or so.
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The engine is now stripped except the rods.
The bearings and crank seem in really good condition, so Im going to take some advise on it.
Originally the engine ran but smoked this looks now like the exhaust valve guides are worn, looking at the inlet and exhaust valves they appear to have the same stem diameter yet they are loose in the exhaust and snug in the inlet, this may be the normal if worn, again ill ask advise from DM Engineering and if need be they can put new guides in especially as I'm having new valve sets
All the gears seem faultless but not sure if it best to replace any bearings whilst its apart
Once the cases are cleaned I might as well get new engine studs fitted
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What size are the valve heads? The F2 had bigger valves at a different included angle and with the lumpier cam wore out the exhaust guides for a pastime, I seem to remember that the collets and top collars were different to
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I'll have a look at the sizes but reading the manual both valve guides should be the same 6.6mm int. diameter so the exhaust valves guides are knackered. Hence the smoking when running.
I'm going to get these replaced with new valves and springs.
I believe the engine is in good shape but a real close inspection of everything is needed, I'm checking the cyl bores later, they look good but who knows,
It will be put back 100 percent though no bodging here mate.
Here's a tiger 500 GP engine I built last year, runs a treat,
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Many years back I converted one of the 500's from mettalled rods to shells
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Just measured the valve dia.
Inlet 34mm
Exhaust 31mm
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The 1947 tiger was originally ally rods no shells
In my engine I had thunder engineering billet rods
Cylinder And head is from the generators used in lancaster bombers. Cost a bomb and still needed £ spent them, carbs are ex works refurbed
Runs well, quick and sounds very loud
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Great work Keith, you certainly leave no stone unturned, who done the nickle plating of the frame, can you tell me the cost?
I am enjoying this build
pete
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Those sizes make it an F2 head and explains the guide wear, try Dynoman in the US for parts he has a good rep on the US forum. The Early 500 had alloy rods with white metalled steel caps and i never knew the Lancaster connection, you learn every day
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Lancasters used to have electric gun turrets I'm told not hydraulic, the power was supplied by triumph, who used the standard 500 bottom end with a bigger valves head in aluminium as was the cylinder for light weight.
This set produced a few more h.p. And after the war the generators with engines were snapped up by racers for the weight and extra h.p.
There a bit rare and I had to pay 2.5k for the cyl and head and then all the refurb of them .
Honda.... Anyway by inserting a piston ring in the cylinders at three point and measuring the ring gap it was found 3 bores all equal at 12 thou and one at 13 thou.
New setup I believe is 8thou with tolerance up to 27 thou.
I'll take advise on this but it shows good cylinder to me
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I think I should now be posting on project board section and not as a newbie section.
So captaink will post as rickman 750 build
Bye for now
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Bores sound good but you really need to check with a new ring or have a shop do it with a bore gauge. If its F2 pistons rings can be difficult to find as they are different thicknesses to the other 750 but i think Dynoman does those as well
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All posts now on the build project section under rickman but thanks for the info