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Topics - MrDavo
31
« on: April 27, 2017, 06:30:07 PM »
I can't find the recent previous thread on this (or maybe, as happens on here, it was a diversion on a thread about something else entirely) but, for the record, after careful measurement I am pleased to find I am doing 37mpg, I guestimated it to be far worse after nearly running out of petrol the other week.
I'm sure there will be gentle riders who get more, and Earnest Thrasher who will get much less, but my K1 is bog standard inside, most moving parts subject to wear have only a few hundred miles on them, and the carbs were synched professionally, so a pretty good yardstick.
Unfortunately I am too stupid to work out how to set up a poll (if you can with this forum software) to see what you all get. I always treat published road test figures with contempt (don't want to upset the advertisers etc), and anyway most figures on the 'net are in US gallons which are different.
32
« on: April 23, 2017, 09:32:59 PM »
I've been having indicator dramas, last week I noticed the right hand side had stopped working, nothing lighting up at all.
With the engine stopped you can hear the flasher relay ticking away frantically. I tried the usual checking the connectors were all present and correct in the headlamp, made sure everything was a tight fit, and it seemed to correct itself temporarily. Today it was back to hand signals only on the right unfortunately.
I swapped the orange and blue feeds from the handlebar switch, the problem stayed with the right hand side lamps, though the switch positions were now reversed, so its not the feed from the switch.
Disconnecting things one at a time, the speedo bulb and the front right work fine, but the load doesn't make the relay flash.
Connecting the rear right causes all other lights to go out and the frantic 'ticking' from the relay.
I checked the connections at the rear indicator bulb, they weren't great, but resoldering and cleaning everything up made no difference. Until I get some extra wire, I cant test for voltage / continuity, cos my multimeter leads don't reach from the headlight end of the light blue wire to the connector at the back of the seat.
It cant be a broken wire as connecting it makes the ticking happen, but I'm thinking a high resistance somewhere. However its all one wire through the loom AFAIK, or is there another connector somewhere I can check? Is there a spare wire I can pinch or at least try? I suppose I should also connect the rear right to the left side indicator switch to see if the problem swaps sides.
33
« on: March 24, 2017, 05:02:20 PM »
I just tried to grease my swinging arm bearings. Despite a lot of back pressure, and much grease oozing out all over around the nipple, I didn't see any grease come out around the swinging arm / frame joint. I wonder if the little balls in the grease nipples could be seized, if there's a blockage, or indeed if some grease has gone where intended and I shouldn't worry about it? There is no play in the swinging arm, and the bike probably had new bearings, as everything else seems to have been replaced, and zero miles run, before the bike's disastrous post rebuild engine problems (see the 'Oil Pressure' thread in the CB750 forum) came to light. Hopefully they greased the parts when the bike was restored but there's no way of checking other than disassembly, which I don't want to do now she is running. And yes, I know I should have thought of this while the engine was out. 
34
« on: March 24, 2017, 04:48:51 PM »
Last night I was riding as it was getting dark, when a guy on some modern noisy bike came up alongside at the lights and shouted that I had no rear light. I stopped when I could and had a fiddle around, I could see nothing obvious, but I noticed that there was no brake light either, so straight away I knew I had an earth problem.
Today I took the rear light assembly off, and sure enough the metal plate at the outside end of the lamp assembly was adrift, held there just by the earth wire. I can't be sure if the thing was once crimped on somehow, but this had been glued there, and this had come unstuck. Looking at the parts book, the whole thing, apart from the lens, screws and bulb, you've guessed it, is one assembly, and a search reveals it to be NLA. I did find a complete K0/K1 pattern tailamp available new from Japan, but with the usual horrors of postage, duty etc to add on.
For now it has had a bigger blob of fresh araldite to stick it back together, and is sandwiched in the vice between a socket and the clutch tool, to squeeze it together while the araldite sets. For now the bulb holder is making electrical contact with the metal plate with the earth tag on. I'll leave it there till Sunday, then see how its worked out.
If its no good I'll be hunting for another rear light assembly. My General Export Type lens is a huge lunchbox of a thing, with 4 screws, like the later K2 type, and I'd like to keep it original. The assembly has no common parts with the 2 screw type apart from the bulb, different reflector, everything. However, I may not find another and have to use a 2 screw K0/K1 assembly instead, we'll see.
35
« on: February 20, 2017, 02:41:54 PM »
Cast your eyes over this, try to see past the ghastly red frame and the finned covers, if anyone here did see or own this bike they will remember it. I found the photo the other day, while looking for a picture of my 'daylight only' Norton Atlas racer. Its the only photo I have of the CB750 I bought from Sports Motorcyles when I was a student of 19 or so, so approximately 1976. It had, I was told, a Yoshimura cam and pistons, although I never saw inside, I had no reason to doubt Steve Wynne, and I got a good part ex on my Suzuki GT550. It was very fast, very loud, but I later sold it because it kept trying to kill me (though that may have had more to do with me being 19). I now think the Girling shocks may have been a bit on the long side, it was prone to high speed tank slappers and it had oversize TT100's which won't have helped. Also I racked up a lot of speeding points in a short time and was getting close to a totting up ban.  I have no record of the reg or VIN number, I think it was a G reg, it may have been H, so 1969 or 1970. I do remember it was sold to me as a K0, of course in those days the word 'sandcast' didn't mean anything, anyway it was just another second hand CB750 then. Looking at this list: http://www.honda-classics.co.uk/model-by-model-guide/ only 36 K0's were imported into the UK, I don't know about the original 'non K series' CB750s. Looking at the photo I doubt it was a sandcast, as it has a finned oil filter case, and beaded edged 'non cut' mudguards. I wouldn't have known what a wrinkle tank was then, so I don't know about that. The forks have that step under the oil seal that early bikes do, I never did fix the torn gaiter. Whoever thought the red frame was a good idea also chromed the fork ears, I don't think they are later ones as the have the small reflector still. Those mirrors fix differently to the stalks to my K1. Only one throttle cable, which seems right for a K0. The white Honda badge is wrong, but a black one wouldn't have showed against the dark blue tank. It had an oil pressure guage, you can just see where it connects to the oil gallery. The carrier is the same type as the one I have on my K1 now, Tower I think, when you put luggage on it the front end wobble became worse, my K1 doesn't do it at all, mercifully. Whatever it was I don't like to think what it would be worth now, though I'd put it back to standard, in any event if I'd kept it I'd probably be busy pushing up dasies by now.
36
« on: February 13, 2017, 08:03:46 PM »
After the engine rebuild (see another thread) I took the bike out for a short, if illegal, test ride today to check all is well before it goes for an MOT, I did 3 miles pootling about very locally without drama, but I haven't got the clutch right. It was fine while riding, though the bite point was very near the 'let go' position, however when I got home I couldn't change gear easily while stationary with the clutch in, and neutral was very hard to find, like on a Triumph. I can get all the gears easily when the engine isn't running, so I don't think its a gearbox or selector problem. Not a great scan, but have a read of the owner's manual and tell me what you think.  I'm fairly sure they mixed up clockwise and anti clockwise, didn't they? Can anyone link me to a better source, tell me how they've always done it, or come up with a link to a service bulletin? Surprisingly, Hondaman's CB750 book doesn't seem to tell me anything about clutch setup, other than how to dismantle and assemble it. Assuming I did adjust it right (and it worked fine before, after I put new plates in) then I think I need to take the inner cover off, and check the pressure plate is moving evenly. To be honest, I didn't touch the clutch at all during the rebuild, just left it alone where it was, undisturbed on the shaft.
37
« on: February 02, 2017, 07:24:37 PM »
I just had an email from Marcel in Holland, my clocks are ready. He had the following issues, they were jerky, and the bike was always doing 10mph util you tapped the speedo: Both dampers were empty Rusty bottom plates Rusty/unpainted inner cover (one gauge) Two colored jewels were bad One glass rubber seal was dried out I think the photos speak for themselves:   Not cheap, but like new, as advertised.
38
« on: January 30, 2017, 12:21:04 PM »
Ive set my CB750 timing up static as per the owner's manual, no problem, and it starts and runs OK.
However looking at the Honda Service Bulletins etc its clear that the dealer was expected to use a strobe, with a dwell meter.
The gist is that you set the dwell instead of the points gap, as it is a more accurate measure of how long the points stay open, then set the timing to the marks (I hope I've understood this correctly).
I can get a Gunson Superstrobe on fleabay for about £50, any good? Worth the extra effort?
39
« on: January 23, 2017, 04:24:30 PM »
Just a quick one, in case anyone, apart from me, is geeky enough to wonder about the differences between models for different markets, my 'General Export Type' headlamp rim has the adjuster screw at the bottom, so it adjusts up and down but not left and right.
I always thought mine was the wrong rim, as every other CB750 Ive seen has the adjuster screw at the side. However looking closely at my parts book there are two different headlamp pictures (three including the type with a separate bulb) and two different sets of numbers, and sure enough, mine is correct for the 'General Export Type' version.
I'm guessing that while Honda knew which side of the road UK, European, Japan and American market bikes were going to be used on, and so which way they should dip on low beam, the general export bike was non commital, and has a different sealed beam unit part number too. Perhaps it should ideally be ridden in the middle of the road.
Edit: It also gives the code for the Australian market for that headlamp, and checking pictures of '70's Hondas on eBay Australia sure enough, I can see that adjuster screw at the bottom - why? Surely they drive on the left, like the UK - were they thinking of changing? Do they have different 'dipping' rules? In any event if I need a replacement / spare sealed beam unit I know where to look.
40
« on: January 09, 2017, 01:47:04 PM »
If I buy parts from Japan for £50, including delivery, will I still get hit for import duty, VAT and pay a fee for Parcelfarce to collect it?
I seem to recall that under a certain amount they don't bother.
41
« on: December 20, 2016, 04:21:50 PM »
 I'm sorry to get picky about my own bike, but what spoils it for me are the just too modern looking Avon Roadriders, which is a shame, because I used to classic race on similar tyres, and they are totally trustworthy in all conditions. However, my aim is to get the bike to what to what you'd get if you went into the dealer and said 'I'll have the blue one.' I think what I need are these tyres on a 'travel set' of less blingy wheels, especialy for the Classic TT (booked the ferry now, via Liverpool, Friday to Wednesday). I'm off to look on eBay for wheels. Will only K1 hubs fit? What tyres could I get for these wheels, that look like the originals, but don't behave in the wet like the Japanese tyres of the 1970's ?  Nobody seemed to keep them on for very long.
42
« on: December 16, 2016, 12:53:17 PM »
NOS candy blue green tank, 'never had petcock installed' but does seem to have paint wear from a saddle (though that could be the lighting). Also has a healthy scratch, down to the metal, which is probably why it was replaced by the dealer. When you embiggen the picture, it's worse than it seems at first glance. If you were going to spend that much, unless you knew someone very good at repairing 3 pack paint, you'd still want to have it resprayed, or just go to Yamiya. Yours for $1,750 (+ carriage, import duty etc).It does say 'Sandcast' - but doesn't look very wrinkly to me. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1969-76-Honda-CB750-CB-750-K0-Sandcast-W3-1-039-NOS-gas-fuel-petrol-tank-cell-WOW-/232169442404
43
« on: November 30, 2016, 02:32:28 PM »
I decided before I fit the exhausts back on my bike, that it would be a good time to fit the 530 gold X-Ring chain that I bought on the Bay. What I don't need is a debate on whether I should or not, I bought it a while ago, it's mine now.
I had to shorten it, using my Draper chain splitter, that went fine, it's now the right length to fit with plenty of adjustment left. When I went to find the split link that I thought it had - there wasn't one, just a link to be riveted up, with a small pack of grease and O rings.
I know Honda fitted a continuous chain, I also know lots of people run split links, as have I in the past, even on race bikes. However I am where I am with this, its time to buy a riveter. I don't want to buy a cheap and nasty one, that I might have to buy another, I also don't want to do a half arsed job that could cost me a set of cases.
Any recommendations or tips, particularly for a decent chain riveter that won't break the bank and cost more than the chain did?
44
« on: November 26, 2016, 08:40:11 PM »
Number three downpipe has a noticeable straw tinge, I'm hoping new carb rubbers will fix that, the exhaust valve was very light brown.
Is there anything I can do to polish the yellow out of the downpipe, or am I right in thinking that metal that has changed colour through heat is going to stay that way?
45
« on: November 16, 2016, 09:41:32 PM »
I just found something that will put back my CB750 from running even if I do establish oil pressure this weekend, I need a new / secondhand carb plate. The alloy plate that often cracks is fine, but on top is the bar/ quadrant that opens the carbs. One of the forks that go round the carb slide has broken, probably fell off the shelf I n storage, though no ones owning up, but I don't know, anyway it needs replacing and the whole $&@?/ assembly is one part!
Of course it's no longer available, not at Silver or CMS so I need another. However as my carb plate is fine then a broken one would be fine, I only need the carb opening bit. Part number is 16035-300-004, helpfully called plate set, stay.
Can anyone help? , there's one on flea bay I found, but it's in Nebraska, so the usual hassles with shipping, duty etc.
ETA Found a job lot of CB750 carb bits in Towcester that look right, including the bit I need. I can't see any differences, but I need to get the bits from the garage to study the photo, i hope there were no significant variations.
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