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Messages - deltarider
1
« on: Today at 06:15:09 PM »
Originally in the book it was D7ES which wasn't a particular good plug. Dealers in Holland considered it OK for the break-in period, but advised later to use newcomer D8ES-L if you would ride the highways. The D8ES probably would have been to cold. You may say the D8ES-L with its tip that protruded just a tiny bit further, was in between the 7 and 8. Also Honda France advised them for the CB500/550 and called them auto-nettoyante (selfcleaning). BTW, the D8ES-L was/is used on a wide variety of bikes. I had them in my CB500 on all my travels in Europe, often at maintained high speeds. I wouldn't have felt comfortable with the 7, not when you, what happened more than once, were late to switch to reserve... So it depends on your riding, but if the D8EA is the new name for the D8ES-L, it's a good choice. If you don't cruise over 5000 rpm, you may consider the 7EA.
2
« on: Today at 04:27:30 PM »
I dispute this,
My 500 has no issue
In fact, I use a harder plug than reccomended, an 8 instead of a 7 ,
I have checked the tickover mixture, and my airscrews are turned out more than normal,
I also have Boyer ignition, and run the plug gaps at 33thou,
Is that plug a D8ES, a D8ES-L or a D8EA? What is the position of your airscrews. I myself have had D8ES-L plugs many times, recommended by mecs if you travelled at high speeds. Nowadays - many years older - I run D7EA. I see no advantage in gaps over 0,7 mm. You can expect they will erode sooner.
3
« on: Today at 02:58:47 PM »
Here is a question the experts in the international forum wouldn't (or couldn't?) answer.
In particular CB500/550s are known to easily foul their sparkplugs at idle. What - in theory - would make these CB Fours idle better: gapping the electrodes 0,6mm or 0,7mm? Please substantiate your answer.
4
« on: Today at 02:32:25 PM »
[...]
Is the primary resistance quoted?
A link to the actual item would help.
This ^ and is it a known brand? Advice in general: If no brand and made in China, abstain from ordering.
5
« on: Today at 08:16:09 AM »
Why not indicate which you bought? We're in the dark.
6
« on: April 18, 2024, 08:18:58 AM »
Can you inform us some more why it needs a rebuild?
7
« on: April 16, 2024, 04:24:56 PM »
All the original cables i saw in the 70's had a black lining on the inner cable [...] Thanks Bryan. The old original cable I have kept also has a black lining on the inner cable. The one on the bike for the last 60.000 km - also original - IIRC gray but as soon I have checked I'll report. [...]
I doubt that Honda will do anything as you do not know where it originally came from, that dealer is gone so cannot provide purchase details and finaly time in stock
So far Honda seems very interested. Seller has 30 more. He has bought them back in the day of a dealer that went out of business. The difference in quality is substantial. My old cable weighs a ton compared to the one in the package. Still the cable I bought of him may well be original. What puzzles me is that the partnumbers, including the 3 digits MODIFICATION DESIGNATION, are identical.
8
« on: April 16, 2024, 01:16:01 PM »
I have informed Customer Support of Honda EU on the matter and they are investigating it.
Note that the cable lacks the thicker part against chafing. The cable is much thinner than the previous 22870-323-621 ones I had and I could not detect the inner Teflonlike lining. When you zoom in on the pic, you will notice a detail: the little coupon wich mentions the partnumber has 'Japan' cut off from 'Made in Japan'.
My hope was that mechanics that have worked on these bikes, could remember/testify that inspite of the identical partnumber 22870-323-621 cables could nonetheless differ in quality. That would be exceptional however. The underlying systematic of Honda's partnumbers code is, that even when the smallest detail of a part is modified, the last three digit number in the partnumber will change.
9
« on: April 15, 2024, 11:50:35 AM »
Expect wiring will differ in color and male connectors where you need female and/or vice versa.
10
« on: April 14, 2024, 03:00:01 PM »
Bought from Marktplaats (the Dutch kind of Ebay): a new original (?) 22870-323-621 clutchcable for all European models CB500 Four for € 20,-. Haven't opened the packaging yet, as I discovered some differences with my old clutch cable I still have, which definitely is original. The one I bought now, is not only thinner, but also lacks the thicker part. Inner cable is not lined. Seller says he bought it a very long time ago from a shop that quitted business. The question is: were the CB500 clutch cabels always lined? If not, could this be an original, like maybe on the early CB500s? Or is it despite its packaging and partnumber inside the packaging an imitation? Who knows more?
11
« on: April 12, 2024, 06:21:51 PM »
Aha, so it's just nother case where a fuel problem turns out to be electrical.  Plugcaps always have been and are the CB500/550 Achilles' heel.
12
« on: April 12, 2024, 11:30:36 AM »
The tube to the T-joint 1+2 should be 17 or 18cm long, depending of the model petcock your Cb550 has. The oldstyle petcock with the bowl requires a length of 18cm, the newer type 17cm. Ideal ID is 5,5mm.
After a long period of sitting you can expect irregularities. When carbs have been drained for a long period, O-rings at the T-joints will shrink and so - possibly - cause initial leaking. Usually the rubbers will regain their original dimensions, but I prefer to keep my carbs in a natural state, which is wet.
As far as problems with the floats, both valves and needles, tapping (gently!) the floatbowls with the stub end of a screwdriver can do miracles. Flushing the floatchambers by removing the drainscrews and then opening and closing the petcock can also help, or both methods combined.
Make sure the joined vent tube for carbs #1 and #2 is free and can vent to the open.
13
« on: April 11, 2024, 10:19:43 PM »
Your remarks are contradictory. You say the floatbowls fill up and you don't rule out you've kinked lines.
If you're unsure, I'd begin by tapping (gently) the floatbowls with the stub end of a screwdriver to activate sticking float needles and/or remove dirt in between the floatvalves and their needles. Often this is all what it takes.
If you're sure the floatbowls do fill up, this is what I'd do.
Do a start attempt and then check the #1 and #2 sparkplugs. If the plugs noses are dry, fuel does not arrive. If the plug noses are wet, fuel does arrive and the problem is elsewhere.
If the fuel does not arrive, I'd leave the carbs where they are.
Unscrew the airscrews from the sides of the affected carbs (after writing down the position they were in) and spray carb cleaner using a straw in the openings and hope it will clean the slow jets. Reposition the airscrews and start engine. Maybe the carb cleaner has cleared the slow jets. I had success with this once.
If not. On a CB550 LH side I find it not difficult to just unscrew the floatbowls with the carbs in situ and then remove their jets for inspection. Long time ago I have replaced the 4 crossheads of every floatbowl by allen. Much easier. All maintenance/cleaning on these oldstyle carbs can be done with carbs in situ. It helps if you're familiar with what's inside though.
14
« on: April 11, 2024, 03:20:57 PM »
Lithium grease. When I acquired my bike in 1980, it had 'nervous' needles, both tach and speed. Took the inner cables out, cleaned them with petroleum and lubed them with Duckham's lithium grease (keenol?). Never had to do it again in the 44 years thereafter.
15
« on: April 10, 2024, 06:52:51 AM »
Is yours a CB500K2-A or the years later CB500K2 GENERAL EXPORT? You may want to consult the latter's parts list* to establish what you have now and what you would like to have. The K2 GENERAL EXPORT came with a modified clutch adjuster. I never had a problem with it. The former adjuster 22841-266-000 was on 82 other Honda models, the 22841- 323-000 only on the CB500K2 GENERAL EXPORT. * p.20-21 https://www.honda4fun.com/dwnload/Part-List/CB500/CB500-K2-76-Parts-List.pdf
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