This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - deltarider
16
« on: April 15, 2024, 11:50:35 AM »
Expect wiring will differ in color and male connectors where you need female and/or vice versa.
17
« on: April 14, 2024, 03:00:01 PM »
Bought from Marktplaats (the Dutch kind of Ebay): a new original (?) 22870-323-621 clutchcable for all European models CB500 Four for € 20,-. Haven't opened the packaging yet, as I discovered some differences with my old clutch cable I still have, which definitely is original. The one I bought now, is not only thinner, but also lacks the thicker part. Inner cable is not lined. Seller says he bought it a very long time ago from a shop that quitted business. The question is: were the CB500 clutch cabels always lined? If not, could this be an original, like maybe on the early CB500s? Or is it despite its packaging and partnumber inside the packaging an imitation? Who knows more?
18
« on: April 12, 2024, 06:21:51 PM »
Aha, so it's just nother case where a fuel problem turns out to be electrical.  Plugcaps always have been and are the CB500/550 Achilles' heel.
19
« on: April 12, 2024, 11:30:36 AM »
The tube to the T-joint 1+2 should be 17 or 18cm long, depending of the model petcock your Cb550 has. The oldstyle petcock with the bowl requires a length of 18cm, the newer type 17cm. Ideal ID is 5,5mm.
After a long period of sitting you can expect irregularities. When carbs have been drained for a long period, O-rings at the T-joints will shrink and so - possibly - cause initial leaking. Usually the rubbers will regain their original dimensions, but I prefer to keep my carbs in a natural state, which is wet.
As far as problems with the floats, both valves and needles, tapping (gently!) the floatbowls with the stub end of a screwdriver can do miracles. Flushing the floatchambers by removing the drainscrews and then opening and closing the petcock can also help, or both methods combined.
Make sure the joined vent tube for carbs #1 and #2 is free and can vent to the open.
20
« on: April 11, 2024, 10:19:43 PM »
Your remarks are contradictory. You say the floatbowls fill up and you don't rule out you've kinked lines.
If you're unsure, I'd begin by tapping (gently) the floatbowls with the stub end of a screwdriver to activate sticking float needles and/or remove dirt in between the floatvalves and their needles. Often this is all what it takes.
If you're sure the floatbowls do fill up, this is what I'd do.
Do a start attempt and then check the #1 and #2 sparkplugs. If the plugs noses are dry, fuel does not arrive. If the plug noses are wet, fuel does arrive and the problem is elsewhere.
If the fuel does not arrive, I'd leave the carbs where they are.
Unscrew the airscrews from the sides of the affected carbs (after writing down the position they were in) and spray carb cleaner using a straw in the openings and hope it will clean the slow jets. Reposition the airscrews and start engine. Maybe the carb cleaner has cleared the slow jets. I had success with this once.
If not. On a CB550 LH side I find it not difficult to just unscrew the floatbowls with the carbs in situ and then remove their jets for inspection. Long time ago I have replaced the 4 crossheads of every floatbowl by allen. Much easier. All maintenance/cleaning on these oldstyle carbs can be done with carbs in situ. It helps if you're familiar with what's inside though.
21
« on: April 11, 2024, 03:20:57 PM »
Lithium grease. When I acquired my bike in 1980, it had 'nervous' needles, both tach and speed. Took the inner cables out, cleaned them with petroleum and lubed them with Duckham's lithium grease (keenol?). Never had to do it again in the 44 years thereafter.
22
« on: April 10, 2024, 06:52:51 AM »
Is yours a CB500K2-A or the years later CB500K2 GENERAL EXPORT? You may want to consult the latter's parts list* to establish what you have now and what you would like to have. The K2 GENERAL EXPORT came with a modified clutch adjuster. I never had a problem with it. The former adjuster 22841-266-000 was on 82 other Honda models, the 22841- 323-000 only on the CB500K2 GENERAL EXPORT. * p.20-21 https://www.honda4fun.com/dwnload/Part-List/CB500/CB500-K2-76-Parts-List.pdf
23
« on: April 06, 2024, 06:46:21 AM »
Hello all
Went to change the chain and sprockets and found that one of the brake shoes had separated in the rear drum [...]
Have heard of this before. Some aftermarket brakeshoes do this.
24
« on: April 05, 2024, 12:29:30 PM »
Has anybody fitted this Gammatronix condenser replacement/spark booster. Did it make any improvements at all??
Made my own transistorized EI over 20 years ago. Ultrarelaible. A shameless copycat of the Velleman x2. In practice: some but noticeable improvement near idle and over 6000 rpm, midrange the same as OEM. Breakerpoints live forever. Mine already over 60.000 km. If you want to learn more, you may want to read: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php/topic,188940.msg2195751.html#msg2195751BTW, can AI or whatever app play the cited video (Youtube) with English subtitles?
25
« on: April 04, 2024, 11:32:36 AM »
[...]
They look like 76k 1320 series shocks ( the number was behind the white plastic cover behind the spring) the same as I have on my 400. [...]
76k or 7610? 13 20 or 13 02?
26
« on: April 02, 2024, 11:58:16 AM »
I love that bike. Best of the CB500/550 series I have ever seen. Also the best pic. What happened to the RH side mirror?
27
« on: April 02, 2024, 10:04:13 AM »
Old Konis are difficult if not impossible to get parts for, the later ones you gan get parts from Ikon
That's misleading info, I'm afraid. Parts for the 'old' Koni's are still available through Ikon, as Koni arranged in the deal - when they sold the motorcycle shocks division to the Australians - that Ikon would continue to provide the service. The number on my Koni's is 7610-1302. They are still available, same number, only with the name Ikon. They were and still are popular. I wonder if you have been sold the wrong type, for another Honda 500 or 550.
28
« on: April 01, 2024, 09:49:55 PM »
Is there a number on yours?
29
« on: April 01, 2024, 08:35:42 PM »
This is quite a coincidence! I was about to post two pics of Koni's with a question myself and maybe it will give you a clue. The other day I was refitting the LH side mufflers, when I saw something I had never noticed before: the clevis of my model Koni shocks are off center. I suppose I must have fit them correctly decades ago as they still function flawlessly. Erny, look at the pictures and maybe your answer is there. Oh... and I have no issues something is touching other parts like the chainguard, so if your Koni's are like mine I would twist them 180o.
30
« on: April 01, 2024, 08:30:23 AM »
They are the cross drilled open ended ones. So far no one has reported the solid airscrews, not on the K models, so it's almost certain the American Honda Parts List has it wrong as far as the CB550K2*. All mixture screws were just one turn out... 1 1/ 2 turn out ± 3/ 8 was recommended for these models. ... and the slide needles are all set to the second position from the needle tip. Needles seem high and mixture screw seems less screwed out that usual - the 2 balance each other out?
Confusing. Please clarify. In Hondaspeak we always measure the needle's position from top and not from the pointed tip. Needles seem high and mixture screw seems less screwed out that usual - the 2 balance each other out?
On the contrary. One turn out is quite rich. As far as the needle, it depends what you meant. If they are in 4th from top, they are in standard position. * p.C10 Ref. No.7 SCREW SET A in: https://www.honda4fun.com/dwnload/Part-List/CB550/CB550-K0-K1-K2-Parts-List.pdf
|
Show Posts