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Messages - deltarider
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46
« on: March 17, 2024, 10:01:52 AM »
Never liked the stuff. The result was always poor, leaving the disk somewhat greasy. Yesterday I've used denatured alcohol on sponges that are slightly abrasive. The sponge on the left is my favourite. The white side is a miracle. The bigger white sponge on the right was also good. It's only that later on the package of the latter, I read that it can leave gum residue. No real problem. Wipe the disk once more with denatured alcohol on toilet paper.
In case you wonder what that tiny container with the pink stuff is, my CB Four dealer/mechanic applies it also in the bore of the caliper and the piston, prior to assembly. My late uncle (a car mechanic) also practised that, be it that he used the blue Ate grease. So I think it's safe. The piston, 47 years old, could be used again. The same for the caliper. A friend had put it in his ultrasonic cleaner and after a quick wipe with some denatured alcohol on paper, it was super clean. Today I will fit the repro brake pump 45500-300-010P (CMSNL). A friend had praised its performance.
47
« on: March 16, 2024, 02:48:50 PM »
I often wondered: what can you do to get the CB500 clutch operation as smooth as possible? For instance: is it safe to grease the pushrod with brake grease or is it better to stick to oil?
48
« on: March 16, 2024, 11:21:23 AM »
I have a Jacuzzi in mine that doubles as an ultrasone cleaner. My bike and I often bath together. Bonding!
49
« on: March 15, 2024, 09:35:38 PM »
Found it
"The key to getting the 4 into 4 system to hang right is to fit them with the end joints missing at first. Fit the lower one first, remember that this bracket goes behind the frame hanger, fit the manifold clamp and collets very loosely so the front can still move around but can’t fall. Now fit the upper exhaust, bracket now goes in front of the frame hanger, so one each side, fit the footrest loosely. Look at the balance pipe at the rear of the exhausts, they should be directly in line with a small gap between them. Now move the pipes to allow this to happen, make sure the downpipes aren’t touching the frame especially on the left side, one pipe goes behind the side stand bracket and one in front. Once everything lines up, nip up the lower manifold clamp to fix it in place, loosen off the upper pipe until you can fit the rubber balance pipe, realign the upper and tighten the footrest bolts first, then the manifold ones. If you’ve got it right everything should look aligned from the rear with no twisting in sight."
Copyright Ken P
When you prefer to do it like this ^, it implies you bring in the 10X35 hanger bolt from in to out, meaning the nut will be on the outside of the footpeg. Probably doable, be it that it deviates from what pics in the parts lists suggest. Furthermore I miss in Ken's description an explicitly mentioning that, in the process of mounting the exhausts, brackets should not be fully tightened to the mufflers, not until the very last. IMO it wouldn't hurt to lube all parts that will need to slide somewhat into position with some vaseline or silicone grease. I haven't given up hope that we in a joint effort can establish the correct working order in a set of numbered steps for once and for all. Think instructions Honda labourers at the assembly line must have had. Does the Delkevich set come with instructions? Probably not.  I must say I became quite frustrated when I had to repair half of the 8 threads in the head where the studs sit. They're easily damaged when stressed. Not that long ago someone suggested to tighten them the last. In my - as always - humble opinion that would cause such a stress.
50
« on: March 13, 2024, 04:16:56 PM »
I remember having read positive reviews here on SBS organic brake pads (Oddjob). I assume they were the 'street' and not the ' racing' version. Correct? https://www.fourdeelshop.nl/cb500/remmen-4Further down in the pic you'll see an aftermarket master cylinder. I've heard good things about it. Friends informed me that performance is better than the OEM. I'll have the single disk one (€ 55,-) and will let you know how it performs. BTW, you can replace that nasty black cap by your old original one. Thanks for your wisdom.
51
« on: March 13, 2024, 04:07:42 PM »
I'm reassembling the caliper and I'd like to learn the correct procedure. I'm using conventional DOT 4 brake fluid.
Prior to sliding the piston in, you need to smear some brake fluid in the cylinder. I understand that.
In an ideal situation do you:
a) also wet the rubber seal with some brake fluid?
b) also wet the seal's groove with some brake fluid?
c) also wet the piston with some brake fluid?
Reason I ask is, that I assume it's best to have as little brake fluid (hydroscopic) outside, to prevent attracting moisture and things getting dirty.
Silicone grease like Ate is in principle only applied on the sides of the pads, to prevent sqealing.
In the situation shown in the pic, so with the piston fully in, is it OK to smear some silicone grease in the area around the bore (indicated by blue arrows)? Will it prevent dirt build up?
To prevent future seizures, is it OK to smear a little copaslip on the bleeder's thread, or is there a risk you will contaminate the brake fluid?
How about the threaded end of the fluid pipe, that goes in top of the caliper?
Thanks in advance.
52
« on: March 13, 2024, 08:28:37 AM »
Assemble everything loosley then work front to back tightening evenly
That's how also I see it. Could it be that the two nuts that fasten the brackets to the silencers are to be tightened the very last? Looking at the pics of these brackets, you will notice that the two holes for this, are designed thus, that they can slide a little bit, possibly to avoid stress. I have overlooked the design of these holes in the past. What do you think?
53
« on: March 12, 2024, 03:34:24 PM »
To all of you. I am interested to read what fastening order you like best. Does the set come with instructions on this?
54
« on: March 09, 2024, 08:27:35 PM »
[...] and turn over in short bursts with the kill switch on until oil light goes out before attempting a full on start up. Sound OK?
I am not so sure short bursts will result in an extinct oil light... A tribologist has warned in his publications more than once that interrupted starts or killing the engine after a succesful start and then restart are about the worst things you can do to your engine. I assume you have prelubed parts on assembly. I'd open one or two valve covers for monitoring spats, crank the engine in one go and oil should be up there within 10 seconds.
55
« on: March 06, 2024, 08:24:12 AM »
56
« on: February 25, 2024, 12:36:17 PM »
Always wondered, what is the purpose of the link pipe between the top and bottom pipes near the ends? IIRC are such "balancing" ports intended to increase low end torque... dunno if this also applies when they're that far down the line though...
The ST1100 has them in the down-pipes, right below where they attached to the heads; would look odd on those /4 engines...
The further down the line they will enhance performance in the high rpms, at least, they are supposed to. The ones closer to the head are to increase mid or low end torque. It's been a long time I learned this, but the source was definitely trustworthy.
57
« on: February 19, 2024, 11:07:26 AM »
Ate grease is - or used to be - first choice and was used by professional mecs. The tube says: compatible with: brake fluids DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1. It's expensive though, so I wonder what alternatives there are. Some suggest you may use vaseline just as well. I don't know about the latter.
But that Ate grease is made for the brake job and therefore 100% safe.
58
« on: February 19, 2024, 11:01:59 AM »
550 is a different system than 500
I know, Mick. The question about connections and routing regarding that particular CB 550K airbox keeps reemerging in various fora. That's why I asked David to post some pics.
59
« on: February 19, 2024, 08:24:23 AM »
Mine (. 550 k1) goes straight down between the carb inlets then across the engine top casing to the junction on the lower rhs of airbox, not over the carbs.
Davis, if possible, I'd like to see some pics of it.
60
« on: February 18, 2024, 01:01:00 PM »
No, at one end (in the thicker part) of the TUBE ASSY., BREATHER there's supposed to sit a little foam in there.
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