Honda-SOHC

As interesting alternative Ted

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390062925510 these are flank drive and very low profile ratchet head for access.

Another point for interest (I've already had an alternative manufacturer set like this) is that they make extremely good plug spanner setup for these 4 cylinder Honda engines, with the "pass through " arrangement being able to use the extension and a socket to drop over the plug .... being hollow, both item ... to make very useful reach and access for those two central plugs.

You'd need to check that plug facility yourself though as mine is a different make (now not available) Bahco also owned by SO too.

I have a cheaper Bahco set it was about £20 back in 2021 not sure why this one is so much more expensive.
Not sure what they/yoou  mean by "pass through" ?

Yikes I've just read the Midge link - thank goodness Scotland is so far away, it's no longer on my bucket list. Amusingly  written I started to itch by the time it reached Scottish Clegs.

Are we talking here about the captive type stud/bolt  that is normally part of the tensioner blade - not available as a separate part? Is your tensioner blade in otherwise good condition.

Yes I agree with you Steve about a site donation as he is saving on e-bay selling fees or advertising and not contibuting in other ways.

This member is probably not alone in such conduct.
That said it can be helpful to some members who might be looking for a particular part or parts.
I see it as a bonus for members to be given such  an opportunity.

Well done Mike always rewarding when you overcome such obstacles - the Cylinder head was a swine to remove on my 400.

As you have the engine out it should be easier to get releasing fluid everywhere before you start.
I have found you need plenty of time for such penetrants to soak through not a quick process.
It might be a consideration to look at ways you might be able to get gravity to help so that the weight of the head itself helps.
Just wondered is there is a way to support the engine upside down on wooden blocks or similar?

It's slightly different subject area - my carb sliders took well over 24 hours of petrol & other solvents to work in a closed container, all four of my carbs were stuck solid. The last one did not yield until three or four days believe it or not. The good news is new they eventually freed off without damage of any kind.

Quote from: McCabe-Thiele (Ted) on April 26, 2024, 09:09:02 PM

Mine was fairly solid, might be worth tapping it back down where it is sligjhtly raised. I found my big rubber mallet worked making sure I  tapped it all round including some upper blows on the intake side.
I also sprayed WD40 type stuff all around the dealing area.

Thanks Ted. I have just given it another good squirting and a firmer tapping with a plastic headed mallet to no avail. I havent tried tapping upwards from the intake side; i will try that tomorrow morning after an overnight soak. Where did you bash it upwards on the intake side?

I can slide a polished paint scraper around between the castings to the right hand dowel but not the left hand one so I guess its seized on the left one. Im assuming the dowels are supposed to be locked into the head as opposed to the rocker housing?

I would tap it down on the side where you can get the scraper in AFTER squirting in releasing fluid then I tap it on the inlets first as close as possible to the head working along the four intakes - I used quite a big soft but weighty rubber mallet that I bought years ago at the centre Isle in Aldi. If you have a lead shot type mallet even better as there is no rebound. Also squirt plenty of releasing fluid down the dowel areas and bolt holes. A tap from the left and right side might help. If the front side is slightly raised keep it back down working more on the rear and sides. Cups of tea in between tapping sessions and light or medium blows should work - plenty of decent releasing fluid not standard WD4o helps. I used some  releasing fluid that car technicians use not bog standard WD40.