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Messages - Bloggs
1
« on: April 27, 2024, 09:14:44 PM »
Done
2
« on: February 28, 2024, 05:44:20 PM »
Does anyone know if Honda always used DID wheel rims or did they mix with Takasago?
The front wheel on my bike is a Takasago but may well be a rebuild as at some time the bike did have a accident in the past, as witnessed by other damage / replacement items used.
Michael
3
« on: February 28, 2024, 05:40:20 PM »
I know this has been discussed before re the oil passage way up via the two studs leaking using the sealing tube/Gaskit/ORing (12909428003).
Having seen an amount of oil on the barrel fins before I started working on the bike I obtained a Gasket set for when I get the the engine. I found an Athena set as I understood these were better than some of the other options currently available. With the comments about the thickness of current head gaskets affecting the seal I ordered some Honda items to compare against the Athena version. Generally there are the same overall design and diameter. Trying to compare is not an exact science as the tapered edges and 'rubber' material of the tube prevent definative measurement.
Using a vernier caliper and measuring the point at which they slip through the jaws I measured 7.77 long for the Athena version and 7.9 for the honda version. So it does seem that the aftermarket version may well be undersized.
Just thought I would share what I had found.
4
« on: January 19, 2024, 11:46:01 AM »
Many thanks Ted, Safety collected.
5
« on: January 12, 2024, 10:55:08 AM »
Hi tad,
I have sent you a message.
Michael
6
« on: January 10, 2024, 05:30:11 PM »
Thanks Bryan, that makes sense.
Just need to find a used replacement so it matches the LH side. Not aiming to get it back to showroom but wnating to retain the Patination of its age.
7
« on: January 10, 2024, 04:31:52 PM »
Hello,
Wishing to ask the experienced members if anyone recognises the RH switchgear that was fitted to my 400?
There different wiring arrangements to the standard CB400 switchgear.
1. Starter button earths the Yellow / Red cable rather than connecting it to the black. No black in the loom.
2. Two additional cables White/yellow and a Yellow appear to go to the headlight switch, in addition to the normal cabling.
The bike's wiring was 'Modified' to remove all the starter interlocks and just use the start button to earth the starter solenoid coil.
White/yellow and a Yellow cables not used.
I an guessing that this is from a 750 or a 550?? Possibly a USA model??? Other parts on the bike have been from a USA model.
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8
« on: December 06, 2023, 05:17:17 PM »
An Update on the thread,
I could not find any source of a seal but found that the seal could be moved into the end cover a millimeter or two moving the lip to 'new', unworn part of the shaft to improve sealing. The end load from the rotor is taken by the spider and shims onto the end cover.
Subsequently I found a 'service' listed on one of the Japanese supplier's web site but they had noted it as No Longer Available!
I have now found the similar kit on the Honda Classic's web site, ordered one and delivered today. Said to be suitable for several Honda models and includes bearing bushes, seal, O Rings, Brushes, Brush Springs etc. Web site listed as 2 in stock and I have taken one. So if anyone needs a kit there should be one left, ref KIT114.
Pic attached.
10
« on: November 11, 2023, 05:28:42 PM »
Hello,
Working through the bike and checking what is missing using the parts list I have found the loom clip under the bottom yoke is not fitted. I assume from the parts list that there is a M8 threaded hole in the yoke for this to bolt to? This threaded hole missing from my yoke, it is an ‘American’ type for yoke as the steering lock hole is in the wrong place for the UK side mounted lock. Guess how I found that out!
Am I correct expecting a threaded hole in the yoke? If I am correct and it was not used on the US version does anyone know how they supports the loom?
Thanks for peoples help to date.
Michael
11
« on: October 31, 2023, 05:55:10 PM »
Thanks Ian,
I have found a complete wheel locally that should sort the problem.
I'll keep you in mind for any future items as they come up!
Michael
12
« on: October 29, 2023, 05:08:50 PM »
As I have been asking questions already, and getting support from the members, I thought I better do a quick introduction to my new money pit. Its something like 45 years after the first CB400/4 I had, the original was Parakeet Yellow and always fancied the Anatares Red colour scheme, they were quite rare at the time. This was another Ebay ‘Find’, umm!
Described as having problems with sparks, blaming the electronic ignition but used every summer. Plan A sort out the sparks and use for the tail end of the summer this year, then decide what to do.
The bike in general and, specifically the paint work, definitely showing ‘Patina’ from having lived a long life! Started on the ignition system and every step finding age and previous ‘visits’ (dare I say bodges / things missing) have pushed this past the simple let get it running.
It became apparent that it has had at least one major crash in its life, with things still bent or not very well repaired. Previous owners must have a very large pot of washers and spacers from the various aged / non-existent rubber mounts. Various missing clips, wiring adjustments, missing cables etc etc. As frame gets uncovered more rust visible, most of the various engine plates are showing signs of rust and having been over painted by ‘Hand’. Rear wheel brake arm position seems to show it needs new shoes, on inspection existing shoes not too far off new. Drum internally badly worn thus needing much more brake movement to work!
Ok major decision, like the patina but want a safe, working, useable bike for the future! Started as sorting out small problems, now it’s a complete strip! Aim is not to be a concourse rebuild, but to get the core machine into a good, safe state and suitable for long term use, but keep the patina as far as possible! So the plan is to powder coat frame, sort out the general running gear and keep as far as possible the visible patina, i.e. painted parts etc.
13
« on: October 29, 2023, 04:28:46 PM »
HI,
Thanks for you reply and looking for spares.
The exisitng seal Looks OK, maybe just wear on the lip and as you say it has a longish lip.
Yes it does seem to be a steel backed version.
I remember seeing ads for a Goo you added to engine oil to swell engine oil seals on older engines. Does it work and would just painting it on the seal lips add that little bit extra to seal?
14
« on: October 29, 2023, 12:47:31 PM »
Thanks for the thoughts to date.
Just measure shalf with the 'Best' micrometer, 13.47 Diameter.
Front bush has a small amount of wear but not very much as is the original.
Seal lip is the correect way around but seal is letting quite a bit of oil past.
Looks like a standard single lip oil seal.
Starter has been 'opened' before and the brushes are quite unworn, one almost new length.
So I guess someone fitted new brushes not that long ago.
The seal has made a very slight mark on shalf but only just detectable.
As expected it not a standard sized seal, shalf size nearest seal is 17/32" : )
I'll keep on looking.
15
« on: October 27, 2023, 07:53:30 PM »
Yes it's the seal in the end cover. I have not yet removed it as I wanted find replacement 1st, if possible. The amount of oil inside was considerable. Surprised no short circuit to date.
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